King Tut Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Anyone know what the string to string distance is on the fivers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dub_junkie Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 (edited) 52 minutes ago, King Tut said: Anyone know what the string to string distance is on the fivers? 19mm at the bridge on the 5 strings Edited March 23 by dub_junkie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martthebass Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 2 hours ago, velvetkevorkian said: I upgraded my pj5 fretless with the higher spec pickups and frankly I might as well not have bothered, the difference in noise was almost imperceptible to my ear. (Fortunately I didn't pay £250 for them 😅) I think the stock pups are pretty good, I gather the stock pre is a bit meh which is why people stick in a proper Sadowsky one or the East. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raslee Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 Very chuffed with my second 1st Gen ME recently purchased from Thomann, can't believe it at only £349. It is also much lighter than a Sire in the same price range and the quality on this one is truly excellent, quiet electrics, a nice set up will low buzz free action, great fret work and a beautiful neck. Really happy with my decal job too 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbass Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 I'm happy with mine as well.Hesitated a lot while there is a lot negative comments about this basses, but tried my luck and on the end good result.Nothing bad on her, electronics,neck fretwork,even action is really good from factory,weight is 3756gr, only needed tuning and plug and play.I think nothing is cheap on this guitar except the price i paid. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsim Posted Thursday at 12:32 Author Share Posted Thursday at 12:32 (edited) Received my CAR 5 string a few weeks ago and only just had the chance to do the decal change and also put a carbon vinyl wrap on the scratchplate as the plain white was booooring! Edited Thursday at 12:32 by carlsim 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattpbass Posted Friday at 05:48 Share Posted Friday at 05:48 Looks great but please pop the E string back into the bridge saddle, that extra wide gap is making my OCD hurt. 😅 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raslee Posted Friday at 05:54 Share Posted Friday at 05:54 17 hours ago, carlsim said: Received my CAR 5 string a few weeks ago and only just had the chance to do the decal change and also put a carbon vinyl wrap on the scratchplate as the plain white was booooring! Looks stunning, love the wrap too. What’s the weight like on the 5’s ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baloney Balderdash Posted Friday at 07:43 Share Posted Friday at 07:43 (edited) 19 hours ago, carlsim said: Received my CAR 5 string a few weeks ago and only just had the chance to do the decal change and also put a carbon vinyl wrap on the scratchplate as the plain white was booooring! Looks great. The string spacing at the bridge is pretty wack though. To me it looks something like 15mm - 18mm - 17mm - 16mm, from low B to high G string. Edited Friday at 07:50 by Baloney Balderdash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Tut Posted Friday at 11:12 Share Posted Friday at 11:12 5 hours ago, mattpbass said: Looks great but please pop the E string back into the bridge saddle, that extra wide gap is making my OCD hurt. 😅 Glad it’s not just me! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsim Posted Friday at 12:02 Author Share Posted Friday at 12:02 6 hours ago, mattpbass said: Looks great but please pop the E string back into the bridge saddle, that extra wide gap is making my OCD hurt. 😅 Yep, spotted this about 2 seconds after I posted the images! All sorted now... 4 hours ago, Baloney Balderdash said: Looks great. The string spacing at the bridge is pretty wack though. To me it looks something like 15mm - 18mm - 17mm - 16mm, from low B to high G string. It's not at all, the E string wasn't in the saddle correctly - all fixed now. It's a great bass for the cash - would be hard pressed to find something this good for £350 new. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martthebass Posted Friday at 13:04 Share Posted Friday at 13:04 For those of you who’ve changed the decal, how easy was it? Can someone give me the lowdown on how they did it before I attack mine? Maybe PM to avoid thread derailment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsim Posted Friday at 13:12 Author Share Posted Friday at 13:12 3 minutes ago, martthebass said: For those of you who’ve changed the decal, how easy was it? Can someone give me the lowdown on how they did it before I attack mine? Maybe PM to avoid thread derailment. I made a thread about this - it isn't totally detailed about the process but should cover most of what you need: Basically, sand the headstock (make sure the sanding is nice and even) apply a few dust coats of your chosen finish (I used a matt finish poly which I buffed to a satin finish...) wet sand a little and apply the decal lay on some dust coats to seal the decal and then you can apply a few more heavier coats to level out. I then wet sanded with 1200 W&D and buffed to a sheen. reassemble. i couldn't get around not having a very fine outline of the decal showing (you can see it in certain light and angles) but I can live with that. Hope this helps. Carl 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjeKtWEREWOLF Posted Friday at 14:16 Share Posted Friday at 14:16 (edited) How does one get a Sadowsky decal? Sorry if I'm being stupid. Thanks. I'm really tempted by one of the green MO 4 string PJs. Reviews are mixed though? I've seen it said that they don't 'stay' set up for long and need frequent tweaks? Any truth to this? 1 hour ago, carlsim said: I made a thread about this - it isn't totally detailed about the process but should cover most of what you need: Basically, sand the headstock (make sure the sanding is nice and even) apply a few dust coats of your chosen finish (I used a matt finish poly which I buffed to a satin finish...) wet sand a little and apply the decal lay on some dust coats to seal the decal and then you can apply a few more heavier coats to level out. I then wet sanded with 1200 W&D and buffed to a sheen. reassemble. i couldn't get around not having a very fine outline of the decal showing (you can see it in certain light and angles) but I can live with that. Hope this helps. Carl Edited Friday at 14:35 by ProjeKtWEREWOLF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsim Posted Friday at 14:34 Author Share Posted Friday at 14:34 https://www.guitardecals.co.uk all the information is on the other thread... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjeKtWEREWOLF Posted Friday at 14:37 Share Posted Friday at 14:37 2 minutes ago, carlsim said: https://www.guitardecals.co.uk all the information is on the other thread... Well who'd have thought 🤔 😁 Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burns-bass Posted Friday at 15:49 Share Posted Friday at 15:49 If you start swapping decals it’s a good idea to mark it somehow to avoid future potential purchasers mistaking it for a real one! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjeKtWEREWOLF Posted Friday at 15:52 Share Posted Friday at 15:52 How does this bass compare to a Squier or Sire? I know we have to co suffer that this is normally a bit more expensive than Thomann is selling but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernaut Posted Saturday at 12:39 Share Posted Saturday at 12:39 20 hours ago, Burns-bass said: If you start swapping decals it’s a good idea to mark it somehow to avoid future potential purchasers mistaking it for a real one! Yup, like most Fender's on eBay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsim Posted Saturday at 19:06 Author Share Posted Saturday at 19:06 The sadowsky metro express basses have a SME or SMX serial on the rear of the headstock… metrolines and other sadowsky basses have simpler serials on the rear… would be quite obvious from the serial on the rear… plus it isn’t just printed, it seems to be embedded into the wood… I don’t have a picture at hand but can post one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjeKtWEREWOLF Posted Saturday at 19:25 Share Posted Saturday at 19:25 So are these things worth the money? Should I just buy a Cort C4/B4 or a Sire V5? I need a cheap backup bass for a covers band I'm playing in. Current using a Westone Thunder 1A (with Aguilar preamp). It's comfy but a bit nasal 😂. I don't usually play 4 strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martthebass Posted Saturday at 22:49 Share Posted Saturday at 22:49 3 hours ago, ProjeKtWEREWOLF said: So are these things worth the money? Should I just buy a Cort C4/B4 or a Sire V5? I need a cheap backup bass for a covers band I'm playing in. Current using a Westone Thunder 1A (with Aguilar preamp). It's comfy but a bit nasal 😂. I don't usually play 4 strings. Can’t comment on the Cort/Sire but I’d put the quality of my late gen1 up with Mex Fender player. However I don’t have the stock pre in mine so I don’t know how good/bad this is. But, build wise at <£400 it’s a bargain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asingardenof Posted 20 hours ago Share Posted 20 hours ago On 27/04/2024 at 20:06, carlsim said: The sadowsky metro express basses have a SME or SMX serial on the rear of the headstock… metrolines and other sadowsky basses have simpler serials on the rear… would be quite obvious from the serial on the rear… plus it isn’t just printed, it seems to be embedded into the wood… I don’t have a picture at hand but can post one. Yep, the first gen Chinese MetroExpress basses have serial numbers starting SME, the newer ones with the roasted necks, etc. start SMX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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