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Ricky's Had His Head Chopped Off.. BOSH..!


Waddo Soqable

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As Inspired by @Bassassin in his excellent thread recently-ish , may I humbly present my attempt, no doubt in numerous instalments as we go.

The Victim, a Rocktile Ricken kinda-copy with another Fugly shaped leaning back headstock. now this could be carved into the Rick hook shape and look a bit more like the prototype, plus various things done to the whole bass to bring it closer to a 4003 appearance, but I fancied doing the headless thing anyway, and have scoped out a few pics of self build headless Rick shape projects that people have done (mainly in the US) before, the RB body shape in my opinion suits the headless malarkey very well.

Here's the basic "donor" plus I've also acquired from AliExpress the Guyker headless bridge x4 units and the head-end string clamp, as used in the above mentioned build.

 

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Edited by Waddo Soqable
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First up I thought intonate the thing might be a plan so I've a basis to work from, it was miles out and needed the saddles moving back a fair bit, I then marked on tape approx where the breakover points would be and took measurements for each string, at least this gives me a start point and shouldn't need too much adjustment later ( he hopes)

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Next I pull off all the gubbins so I've got a bare body, I rather like it all black after seeing it stripped so may make a black scratcnplate for it. I've just v. roughly placed the bridge units to see what they'll look like and how far the knobs would hang over the edge. obviously they'll be measured and set in  a symetrical fashion when fixed down ( again hopefully )  I'm quite happy with how they protrude, which will give good access for twiddling them !  

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At the top end.. I mentioned on Bassassin's build thread that I'd like to chop the head as short as poss, rather than have a weird lump, now luckily having tried the string clamp block thing for size, I can snug it right up against the nut and still get to the truss rod via the groove underneath, so will be able to slice the headstock off up to the metal string block. I'll take a view as to whether i'll need to make a metal plate on the back for reinforcement and bolt thru, or just screw it down to the wood. I'll prob need to file the nut slots to a more acute angle too, to ensure the strings break over right on the edge. Somewhere I've got a zero fret thing, which may be called for if it all wants to play awkwardly.

The block here is again just roughly laid on the neck to verify the above and by no means aligned !

 

 

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10 hours ago, Waddo Soqable said:

Next I pull off all the gubbins so I've got a bare body, I rather like it all black after seeing it stripped so may make a black scratcnplate for it. I've just v. roughly placed the bridge units to see what they'll look like and how far the knobs would hang over the edge. obviously they'll be measured and set in  a symetrical fashion when fixed down ( again hopefully )  I'm quite happy with how they protrude, which will give good access for twiddling them !  

DSCF3780.JPG

Think I'm with you on the all black look. Good luck with the project, it's going to look great 👍

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Just an observation (and I really don’t have much clue), with the headstock block right up against the nut, will you be able to achieve the right break angle over the nut? From the picture, it looks like the front edge of the block might be a tad higher than the back edge of the string slots and, for example, a thick E string might not bend sufficiently.

Edited by Velarian
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1 hour ago, Velarian said:

Just an observation (and I really don’t have much clue), with the headstock block right up against the nut, will you be able to achieve the right break angle over the nut? From the picture, it looks like the front edge of the block might be a tad higher than the back edge of the string slots and, for example, a thick E string might not bend sufficiently.

I was worrying about all that before I tried it loosely together, but having had a good look it will work I think, it's the string holes in the block that need to be just below the slots in the nut, or where the strings break over I should say, I'll prob have to do a bit of filing to the nut slots to get it to be happy. I've tried poking the strings thru  just loose to ensure that there is sufficient "path way" and it looks like a goer.. 

As mentioned I've got a zero fret thing stashed in my junk which I could call into play if the regular nut doesn't want to co-operate, I can bully that in place if I need to 😁

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23 hours ago, Velarian said:

Just an observation (and I really don’t have much clue), with the headstock block right up against the nut, will you be able to achieve the right break angle over the nut? From the picture, it looks like the front edge of the block might be a tad higher than the back edge of the string slots and, for example, a thick E string might not bend sufficiently.

With the string locking mechanism immediately behind the nut you don't need any break angle so long as it is not higher than the nut slots. The change in angle will change the compliance characteristics of the strings but so will the fact that there's a different length of non speaking string behind the nut.

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27 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

With the string locking mechanism immediately behind the nut you don't need any break angle so long as it is not higher than the nut slots. The change in angle will change the compliance characteristics of the strings but so will the fact that there's a different length of non speaking string behind the nut.

Thanks for the Intel 👍 I was only concerned that a downward force behind the nut might, on the thicker strings, create a somewhat vague bend in the string affecting how it seats in the slot. That said there's a fair old pull on them once tensioned so they'd likely seat as intended. I'll try "as is" then, and can always file and fettle later if there's an issue. 

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I screwed the string grip block thing on, I used a couple of the ex bridge mounting screws as they were a bit more robust than what came with the kit, the supplied ones had a crosshead that wouldn't really fit any driver properly PZ or PH either and would've got chewed up anyway. if it's an issue, ie the block being secure, i'll subsequently just bolt right through with a plate on the back.

As expected, a normal type allen key fits just fine under the block for truss rod adjustment..

Being of a bold disposition i'll probably just go right in and hack the headstock off next.

..you know you want me to ! 😉

 

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Edited by Waddo Soqable
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3 hours ago, Waddo Soqable said:

Naturally whenever you attempt anything needing a bit of concentration, a cat rolls up and gets right in the way..

.."if you give me some Dreamies, I'll maybe leave you alone for a bit..Deal ? "

 

 

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He looks as if he's been on the Dreamies for a good while already...

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  • Waddo Soqable changed the title to Ricky's Had His Head Chopped Off.. BOSH..!

V. small bit of progress, I did a basic trim of the post execution  headstump  my idea always being to trim it right up to the metal block, so a bit of filing and sanding ( dead flat bit of wood with abrasive cloth glued to it) took it to the basic rough shape.

I will be wanting to radius the corners a bit so it doesn't look so abrupt, I need to be careful not to take too much off as this lump has the mounting screws for the block going in a fair way, I don't wish to suddenly come up against a screw, and need to leave sufficient meat to provide a solid platform for the block.

I may just leave it like this temporarily and do a cosmetic shaping later.

 

 

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Forward to the more tricky part, I won't be able to do my usual mindless thug act here, I'll have to do measuring and stuff..

Not having graph paper I had to do some 'technical drawing' ie 4 lines 20mm each apart and some dots ! I made a kind of paper template and punched holes where the screw holes would occur to transfer them to the unfortunate bass's body.

Positioning the template is a bit of a faff,( I'm sure any proper builders out there will be shaking their heads) I used the original bridge and its screw holes to assist in lining up the drawing. One issue is the compromise regarding the saddle positions, I'll have to consider how much movement I have available and where the units go. if I were one of those proper guitar builders I'd perhaps 'stagger' them but doing this neatly would be asking for trouble, so I'll do them in a straight line ( hopefully.)  The butt end of the body has a bit of an forward lean too a bit like a Jazz bass tho not as much, this would also favour a staggered arrangement of the units, but, not doing it !

i'll have another look in proper daylight before thinking about drilling holes as I reckon i'll still need to shift the template a bit more to be happy with the position of the bridge units. this is where a one piece thing like the old Overlard of Music set, or similar would be somewhat easier as you don't have to juggle 4 individual pieces.

 

 

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The staggering of the tuning machines to accommodate the different positions for intonation across the the strings has been one of the greater challenges I've found when I've investigated a headless setup.  So much so that I may end up using them just for tension/tuning and add separate individual saddles for intonation and action adjustment.

 

S'manth x

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ps I foresee that when these are in position and fixed down I'll find they are giving me a way too high action, the measurement, body top surface to top of fretboard that Bassassin gave me on his build is slightly less than here, (and his action was a little high I believe) so I'll have to work round that, whether I file a bit off the bottom of the saddles or what.. I'd really rather not have to carve out slots in the body for 'em...we'll see..

Anyway at the mo it's more  just a case of get the units in their correct position and breath a sigh of relief.

Pity it's not a bolt on neck, a slice of fag packet under the neck heel, job done 😉

Edited by Waddo Soqable
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