Happy Jack's Mike Lull Necks

[Happy Jack]

That is a really cunning plan. 😎

[BigRedX]

There's been a "professional" version of that method available for ages (search for "Omnichrom machine" - although it's become less easy to find due to a pesky similarly-named virus variant). Before the arrival of affordable high quality colour printers graphic designers would use it to add colour (mainly to type) to their mock-ups, to show clients what they were going to get before the design went to print.

[Andyjr1515]

18 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

There's been a "professional" version of that method available for ages (search for "Omnichrom machine" - although it's become less easy to find due to a pesky similarly-named virus variant). Before the arrival of affordable high quality colour printers graphic designers would use it to add colour (mainly to type) to their mock-ups, to show clients what they were going to get before the design went to print.

Fascinating!

 

The one thing I don't know (happily not relevant here because this was always going to be black) is whether the method works on a colour laser print.  That said, there are a number of decent decal makers around nowadays.

[LukeFRC]

won't tape fade/yellow over time? I've used waterslide paper in the past, just print directly on... https://www.musikding.de/Decal-for-laser-printers-108x139cm 

[Andyjr1515]

2 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

won't tape fade/yellow over time? I've used waterslide paper in the past, just print directly on... https://www.musikding.de/Decal-for-laser-printers-108x139cm 

Certainly Sellotape and similar have a bit of a tint to start with and I don't think I would guarantee that wouldn't darken further.  That's why, for the actual decal, I'll be using a reel of some ultraclear commercial tape I got hold of years and years ago.  It's fancy stuff - glass-clear even as a full roll.  I've recently seen a couple of the original decals where I used this method (I built pretty much all of our band's guitars and basses) and - must be getting on for 10 years later - they still look fine. 

 

But yes - some of the commercial decal papers are also OK nowadays, although you do have to be more careful with the first subsequent clear coat which can take the ink off.  A spray dusting is the best way but, as I generally don't spray, it's a bit of a wasted can of clear.  The nice thing about the tape method is that the ink is underneath the tape and not on top of it so you don't get that issue.

 

...but the main reason I use this method** is that it's such a cool and unexpected property of sticky tape and laser ink that it gives me a kick every time I try it! 

 

 

 

 

 

**and a reminder that in these threads I'm always happy to explain how I personally do stuff and why...but please NEVER assume that it's how it should be done!  

 

[Happy Jack]

3 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

...but the main reason I use this method** is that it's such a cool and unexpected property of sticky tape and laser ink that it gives me a kick every time I try it! 

 

And let's not forget https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-11478645

[Andyjr1515]

3 minutes ago, Happy Jack said:

And let's not forget https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-11478645

Well there you go...

[fretmeister]

Anything but tort.

 

Even this would be better than tort

 

 

 

[Happy Jack]

4 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

Anything but tort.

 

That turtle has sailed ...

 

[BigRedX]

2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Fascinating!

 

The one thing I don't know (happily not relevant here because this was always going to be black) is whether the method works on a colour laser print.  That said, there are a number of decent decal makers around nowadays.

 

AFAIK it doesn't work with colour laser prints because the toner is different.

 

That said I have never tried it because the work Omnichrom machine was essentially replaced by a very expensive colour copier that connected directly to the computer network by an even more expensive RIP/interface at some point in about 1993/4.

[Andyjr1515]

The headstock is basically having one clear coat a day.  So the time to do further stuff is in the morning, when it is dry from the previous evening's coat.  And this morning was Luminlay Day  

 

Method was the same as with the fretted neck a few pages back but, this time, the dots are on the fret, not between.  I've also added a dot for fret 1 - I personally find that a help on a fretless because I don't have to guess the progressive shortening of the space between those first three semitones.

 

Jack opted for the large Luminlays again for the main part of the neck.  For the 12th, I've put a couple of small ones either side and also small ones for the narrow strip for the upper positions where the neck pocket joins.

 

 

It will have another coat of clear on the headstock this evening.  Otherwise engaged tomorrow but Friday should see the final sand and start of the finishing process for the neck and headstock back - oh and the small but vital step of adding a coat of tinted varnish to the headstock front 

 

And then, I'm afraid I won't be able to put off sorting the machine screw inserts on both necks ANY longer!  

Edited January 5, 2022 by Andyjr1515

[Happy Jack]

Before anyone points out that the large Luminlay dots are a mite clumsy, seeing as they're luminous anyway, I should mention that Andy suggested using much smaller dots for a neater look and tighter intonation.

 

I didn't go with that because I'm well aware that there will be occasions when I forget or don't get a chance to re-charge the dots so I'll be reliant on them just being inherently visible and besides, my intonation is about as tight as a pig on roller skates.

 

[Andyjr1515]

29 minutes ago, Happy Jack said:

Before anyone points out that the large Luminlay dots are a mite clumsy

 

Nothing clumsy about big Luminlays, is there @TheGreek   

 

[Andyjr1515]

Bit of a dull day to be trying to take natural light photos - but I'm pleased with the colour match:

 

When you hold a sheet of white paper next to the body, it is surprising how cream it is.

 

The headstock has had its final clear coat, currently drying, before the decal goes on and then it will have a further 2-3 coats of clear.  I will leave the masking over the ebony runaway until all of that is done.

 

After that I'll sort the machine screw inserts and then do the finish on the maple (which is actually quite a quick process).  The last task will be fitting some hipshot-type string retention bars.  Assuming suppliers have the string retainers in stock, both necks should be ready by around the end of next weekend.

[Andyjr1515]

Better light today - and I've added the decals:

 

 

And so 2-3 overcoats of clear to put over it and the headstock is basically done.

Edited January 9, 2022 by Andyjr1515

[Happy Jack]

12 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

And so 2-3 overcoats of clear to put over it and the headstock is basically done.

 

Banbury, not Bicester.

Banbury, not Bicester.

Banbury, not Bicester.

Banbury, not Bicester.

😉

[Andyjr1515]

And so to the slightly scary bit - fitting the machine screws 

 

In principle, it is straightforward - 

 

-machine screw fits nicely in the ferrule:

 

- and screws into the threaded insert which, itself is threaded into the neck:

 

 

The challenge is that, whereas with wood screws you can get away with quite major misalignments, with machine screws you can't.  They have to be square to the surface and in exactly the correct position...or you just aren't going to be able to screw them in. 

 

To illustrate  "whereas with wood screws you can get away with quite major misalignments" - Mike Lull basses are beautifully made basses.  But on the original neck - with the two bottom screws in place and the neck fully seated and straight - this is where the two top screw holes are:

 

See how offset the hole is to the edge of the ferrule?  With a wood screw, this is no problem - it will be tight but will screw in.  With a machine screw, you simply wouldn't be able to get the screw into the insert in the first place.

 

And so I have to reposition any holes that are out of line.  Which is the scary bit

 

 

 

Still, it could be worse. 

 

It could be my own bass's neck  

 

[Happy Jack]

What with CNC and Plek machines an' all, I rather assumed that they made Mike Lull necks on a jig and everything lined up perfectly every time.

 

That's a bit of a revelation.

 

[Hellzero]

4 minutes ago, Happy Jack said:

That's a bit of a revelation.

 

Are you so young that you are still naive ?

 

Wait a minute, you are older than me. 

[Andyjr1515]

For three of the four screw holes, they were close enough for me to drill out the original screw holes with the larger holes needed for the screw inserts.  However, one would have left some of the original screw hole there and so the better thing for that one was to drill it out and plug.  For inserts, dowel isn't strong enough and so the better thing is to use a plug-cutter and cut a piece of rock maple:

 

This one will be drilled for the insert last.  The other three went in OK.  Note - if anyone is ever fitting this type - that although they have an allen-key hex, it is still a lot safer to use a screw and nut with a spanner to insert them and leave the relatively weak hex socket just for removal if that is ever needed:

 

With the plug chiselled flush, the neck was fitted with the three machine screws to ensure the neck was straight (using the top dots as the guide):

 

Then tomorrow, I can just pop a brad-pointed drill in the final hole and give it a tap to mark the centre point, then drill that out to take the final insert.

 

Then, of course, repeat the whole process for the fretless neck   

 

  

Edited January 10, 2022 by Andyjr1515

[TheGreek]

On 05/01/2022 at 15:35, Andyjr1515 said:

 

Nothing clumsy about big Luminlays, is there @TheGreek   

 

 

Clumsy??? Not a word that springs to mind with these - what are they 6mm?

[Richard R]

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

 

 

 

 

 Much more elegant than just screws! 
In the interests of future generations, are you going to write on "Inserts by AJR Guitars"? Otherwise in 20 years people are going to be arguing that "Mike Lull never used inserts so it's a fake neck". Or some such rubbish 😅

Edited January 10, 2022 by Richard R
Fat fingers!

[Andyjr1515]

With the maple plug cut flush and the neck lined up, time to drill for the last insert.

 

With the 3 machine screws nice and tight and a final check for line up, I use a 5mm brad point fed through the ferrule to make a centre point and then use that as my reference drilling with a 6mm brad point on the drill-press ready to fit the final insert.

 

 

 

And all four done.

 

 

 

Just got to agree with @Happy Jack where to fit the string retaining bar and that's the fretted neck pretty much done. 

 

Inserts for the fretless neck next 

 

[Andyjr1515]

I think we're on the final furlong. 

 

The machine screw inserts are fitted for the fretless neck:

 

 

 

And that just leaves the finish on the plain maple neck and headstock back/sides for the fretless (tru-oil slurry and buffed - a relatively quick job) and fitting the string retaining bars on both.  Those will be in this kind of position for both necks.  The original string tree screw holes will be filled as well as possible with dye-coloured filler but will not be able to be made invisible:

[Andyjr1515]

And it's done

 

Slimmed Lull fretted neck:

 

Same width and profile AJR fretless neck:

 

 

Fully tuned and playable:

 

 

to fully tuned and playable:

 

in:

 

(Of which at least 6 minutes was removing and fitting the strings)

 

Private AJR1515 reporting back to Colonel@Happy Jack : Mission complete, sah!