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Stevie’s 12” FRFR Cab Build Thread (Basschat Cab v3)

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17 minutes ago, stevie said:

Yes. 1.5 mm Aluminium Perforated 10 mm Holes 384 x 567 mm. You have to contact them and specify the size you'd like them to cut. They charged me £15 incl.  delivery, which is what I'd expect them to charge you. They put a special Ebay ad up for me for that specific size, but have now taken it down.

They have now put it back up. and I have ordered one.

Ebay item number

303340339569 there are 9 left.
 

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Excellent! If you have a look at what other companies are charging for similar items on Ebay, that's pretty good value.

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On 27/10/2019 at 14:51, Woodinblack said:

Well, got a bit of paint on, first coat, it looks a bit more like a cab now. That Tuff Cab is weird stuff isn't it?!

I decided to get some M6 tee nuts and put them on the outside of the cab as there are a few places we play that have old tile or concrete floors that are uneven, and the cabs I have at the moment wobble like mad. If I have them on the outside, I can put a bolt through the foot, a nut on the otherside and screw them into the cab, so I can unscrew them to level it. Anything sound wrong with that as an idea?

 

 

T-nuts are prone to pull out with very little sideways force - like dragging your cab across the floor.

Insert nuts might be a better bet - https://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-20mm-50-pack/61859

Insert Nuts Type D M6 x 20mm 50 Pack 

David

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4 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

They have now put it back up. and I have ordered one.

Ebay item number

303340339569 there are 9 left.
 

Thanks - me too, so now there are 8

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On 28/10/2019 at 20:05, LukeFRC said:

should we ask what you're selling? 

I have two basses in the local 2nd hand store, plus amp and cab, effect pedal and a, um, well a 'tribute' to a famous type of bass for sale on Facebook. 

 

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8 hours ago, stewblack said:

I have two basses in the local 2nd hand store, plus amp and cab, effect pedal and a, um, well a 'tribute' to a famous type of bass for sale on Facebook. 

 

Is the “tribute” a Fakenbucker? 

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27 minutes ago, Chienmortbb said:

Is the “tribute” a Fakenbucker? 

I couldn't possibly comment

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On 28/10/2019 at 12:43, stevie said:

I just had a thought that might interest builders using the aluminium grille. Because it's 1.5mm thick and relatively stiff, it doesn't actually need the full picture frame used to support the expanded metal grille. Six individual support points should be ample, with one in the centre if you want. Use wood or maybe even rubber feet as standoffs. EBS use pieces of hosepipe cut to size as standoffs.

As my assembled cab already has the picture-frame grille support fitted, you'll have to experiment a bit with this idea on your own. Please post your results for everyone to see. The good news is that removing the full grille support and fitting the aluminium grille will bring the weight of the cab down to well under 13kg.

 

My G K cabs have an aluminium grille which has folded flanges on all sides. These make it rigid and space the grill off the baffle without the need for a frame. The grille is also fixed from the sides of the cab giving a really clean look. It would  be more expensive to get made for sure, but just a thought?

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I had a GK combo like that but the screws sat  proud Of the side of the cab. Not friendly to delicate surfaces when Laura on its side. They only needed to countersink the holes. 
 

However it is a good idea bit would be more expensive. 

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I am waiting for the grille, foam strip, corners and 5mm bolts and still need to put the final voats of TufCab on. The deadline is that I have a gig on the 9th. Fingers crossed and pictures to come soon.

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Okay I have been getting on with my cab, 009, a few hours at a time when I can make time and space in the workshop

It's a great kit, has gone together okay, the only real problem I had was the handle having holes almost in the right place was worse than not having any holes at all trying to line it up so handle was parallel with the face of the cab and then either opening up the holes or re-drilling them completely, anyway I tightened one handle screw when it wasn't lined up and ended up breaking a little bit of the plastic, ended up using a couple of coach screws at each end of the handle but will probably change to some counter sunk machine screws on final fit with nuts and washers, just need to find the right length in black

Other than that my chiselling a channel for the speaking connector to sit in was a bit oversized and so I added a frame to the inside for extra support long term, glued and pinned it shouldn't come adrift 

One corner still not quite shaped to fit the corner protector and final fill and sand to do before painting, it will be a couple of weekends before it's finished

I didn't have clamps long enough for clamping the top and bottom so resorted to weight to hold these in place while glue set - it would have been better with another 6 clamps really to be able to glue the 4 sides together all in one go - all the youtube videos of guitars and things being built show you can never have too many clamps

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Looking good, Aidan. Thanks for chiming in. There are still a few more kits under construction out there that we haven't seen here yet.

Yes, sorry about the handle holes. We made the not unreasonable assumption that the holes were evenly spaced around the handle. They look evenly spaced but they're not quite - they've use some weird spacing that's not obvious.

I contacted the distributor, Adam Hall, but they were unable to supply any drawings showing the hole spacings - and the only dimension shown in the drawings they do publish (the handle hole) is the wrong size, as we discovered on the prototype.

A few people have used black machine screws with T-nuts on the handle. I'm sure someone will be along to say which ones they used.

 

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Having lots of clamps is obviously the best way to go, but I'm conscious that quite a few people have bought them specifically for this project - and might not use them again. Four long clamps should do it, but screws can always come to the rescue if needed. And a couple of tins of paint on top of a panel is as good as anything.

A brad nailer isn't a tool that everyone has in their workshop, but I reckon that clamping each panel and then holding it firm with staples from a brad nailer would free up your clamps immediately for the next panel. You should be able to assemble a cab fairly quickly using that method, and staple holes are easy to fill and sand because they are small.

I've been down to the local Screwfix and got myself a brad nailer and will be trying it out soon on my next box.

Edited by stevie

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My painting is done, so the last coat is just drying. I intend to put everything on it tomorrow. I have everything but the grill, but obviously that can go on later.

I really like how it looks.

Just remember I need to get whatever that stuff on the handle is.

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1 hour ago, stevie said:

A few people have used black machine screws with T-nuts on the handle. I'm sure someone will be along to say which ones they used.

 

I used countersunk flat top socket head M5 machine screws from this eBay seller. And T nuts. 
 

 

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15 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

My painting is done, so the last coat is just drying. I intend to put everything on it tomorrow. I have everything but the grill, but obviously that can go on later.

I really like how it looks.

Just remember I need to get whatever that stuff on the handle is.

That's bitumen sound-deadening sheet. It's not a critical component if you can't find any.

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1 hour ago, stevie said:

Looking good, Aidan. Thanks for chiming in. There are still a few more kits under construction out there that we haven't seen here yet.

Yes, sorry about the handle holes. We made the not unreasonable assumption that the holes were evenly spaced around the handle. They look evenly spaced but they're not quite - they've use some weird spacing that's not obvious.

I contacted the distributor, Adam Hall, but they were unable to supply any drawings showing the hole spacings - and the only dimension shown in the drawings they do publish (the handle hole) is the wrong size, as we discovered on the prototype.

A few people have used black machine screws with T-nuts on the handle. I'm sure someone will be along to say which ones they used.

 

Technical drawing for the handle here: -1546247159

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Exactly, Luke. Notice that there's no locational information for the mounting holes, which look as if they are evenly spaced. Also, you definitely need a 150mm hole in the centre. It won't fit in a 148mm hole. I speak from experience.

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1 hour ago, stevie said:

Exactly, Luke. Notice that there's no locational information for the mounting holes, which look as if they are evenly spaced. Also, you definitely need a 150mm hole in the centre. It won't fit in a 148mm hole. I speak from experience.

yes - but it is a technical drawing that a vector program like illustrator can get into. The 148mm will be the outer dimension of it - so a 150mm hole for a 148mm thing sounds about right. If you want me to work out the placement of the holes from that drawing I can do. 

On a tangent. -  I worked out all the measurements for my stair's spindles to millimetre perfection... only to find the friction of 30 "perfect" joints meant it just didn't fit....

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Luke, I'm not sure how you can do that, but if you can, it would be great. You have the advantage of also having one of the handles - so no doubt you could check the dimensions against the real thing.

I found another slightly different drawing of the same handle somewhere in internet land. I'll have another look to see if I can find it.

I appreciate the input.

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Here's a drawing of the handle with some more information. This one shows the cutout diameter as 147mm.

And yet another that doesn't tell you much but at least gets the cutout diameter right.

111252_2.pdf

111252.pdf

Edited by stevie

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On 16/10/2019 at 18:01, Chienmortbb said:

The recent reviews of the Halfords etch primer suggests it is smooth, 

Anyone got a link to the primer they bought? My grille has turned up now, so I have all the bits. Was planning on putting it together today. Obviously I don't need the grille straight away but would be good to get it all.

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