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Stevie’s 12” FRFR Cab Build Thread (Basschat Cab v3)

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1 hour ago, stevie said:

I'd be interested to hear builders' experiences with etch primers - which work and which don't.

Many moons ago I made some cases for my hifi from aluminium sheet and plate. I used an etch primer I bought in Halfords (can't guarantee the one they do now is the same though!), which seems to have worked a treat - the satin black I finished the cases in is still good 10 years on - though of course they don't get the beating a cab (potentially) gets. The one I used was grey, and had a very matt and quite rough surface (almost like a very fine sandpaper) - I assume to allow the top coat to bond properly. So I suspect if a black etch primer is similar in texture, the surface would not be the nicest finish. 

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So that looks like a thumbs up for Halfords primer. The primer I used was smooth, like a normal spray primer.

Edited by stevie

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The recent reviews of the Halfords etch primer suggests it is smooth, 

My progress is slow, I am now away until Friday and then busy all day Saturday and Sunday. 
 

Good news is that I got some Supernova colour (black) paint in a tester pot from Wilkinson at £1.25. More than enough to paint the baffle. I was so excited that I painted it immediately, forgetting that I had not put the grill support battens in yet! The picture shows the baffle with two coats of paint and I have enough paint left for two more. 
 

I have also stuck the wadding in the lower half of the cabinet, I will do the remainder once I have installed the wiring onto crossover. The wadding may look different to the other cabinets as I am using the remainder of the wadding left over from the MK2 build that I currently gig. It is much messier than the one specified but I am convinced ( I.e. hoping) that it is as good or better. 

Ironically now the cabinet is fully glued up, it is much squarer than I expected when I found the bow in one side. So Banaba cab is now cucumber cab. 

444A2047-D805-4290-8F6A-33B99DE24153.jpeg

Edited by Chienmortbb
Smelling misfakes
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On 27/08/2019 at 14:24, funkle said:

Then the T-nuts go in. Hammered in with the soft faced hammer. 

7314E735-B65D-4BC8-BBAD-6418F3E4873D.thumb.jpeg.c4fbb1ad8e8428327391d872194c6a83.jpeg

 

On this point - I am at the point I need to put this in but I notice that your flat goes to teh back of the case, whereas the diagram puts it to the front. Seems it actually clears either way, but which is it supposed to be?

 

Also, the parts list doesn't have the T-Nuts in the handle, just self tapping screws - are they ok and you just wanted to be extra secure or is this recommended?

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23 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

On this point - I am at the point I need to put this in but I notice that your flat goes to teh back of the case, whereas the diagram puts it to the front. Seems it actually clears either way, but which is it supposed to be?

 

Also, the parts list doesn't have the T-Nuts in the handle, just self tapping screws - are they ok and you just wanted to be extra secure or is this recommended?

The flat bit is meant to go to the side where the rebate is - at the front. In my case it didn’t matter; either way I fitted it there was enough clearance to install the front baffle. So I just did it how I felt. 

On my kit, which has been tweaked since, the pre-drilled holes for the handles were large; bigger than would accept a wood screw. So I used T-nuts because that’s all I could do, in that case. But it also makes an insanely secure handle, lol. 

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The flat piece on the handle reinforcement ring was originally there to clear the front baffle. We later discovered that it wasn't actually needed, but didn't bother changing it.

I've just discovered that the plywood in this batch is actually 15.2mm thick. That extra .2mm takes up the clearance in the rebates originally intended for the glue. That's why some builders have found the panels a tight fit. I'm going to increase the width of the rebates in the next batch of kits, but I'd repeat my advice to use 40-grit sandpaper on any rebates that you find are a bit tight.

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On 16/10/2019 at 18:01, Chienmortbb said:

The recent reviews of the Halfords etch primer suggests it is smooth, 

My progress is slow, I am now away until Friday and then busy all day Saturday and Sunday. 
 

Good news is that I got some Supernova colour (black) paint in a tester pot from Wilkinson at £1.25. More than enough to paint the baffle. I was so excited that I painted it immediately, forgetting that I had not put the grill support battens in yet! The picture shows the baffle with two coats of paint and I have enough paint left for two more. 
 

I have also stuck the wadding in the lower half of the cabinet, I will do the remainder once I have installed the wiring onto crossover. The wadding may look different to the other cabinets as I am using the remainder of the wadding left over from the MK2 build that I currently gig. It is much messier than the one specified but I am convinced ( I.e. hoping) that it is as good or better. 

Ironically now the cabinet is fully glued up, it is much squarer than I expected when I found the bow in one side. So Banaba cab is now cucumber cab. 

444A2047-D805-4290-8F6A-33B99DE24153.jpeg

Have you hidden the braces at the bottom with the wadding?

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20 hours ago, LukeFRC said:

Have you hidden the braces at the bottom with the wadding?

Yes I did that first but found it a bit of a fiddle, I got adhesive and wadding stuck to my fingers. So I cut the ones above to size. I may cover the other braces behind the woofer but I suspect it will have little effect. 

I have been away all week so no more progress yet. 
 

 

 

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On 19/10/2019 at 12:39, Woodinblack said:

On this point - I am at the point I need to put this in but I notice that your flat goes to teh back of the case, whereas the diagram puts it to the front. Seems it actually clears either way, but which is it supposed to be?

 

Also, the parts list doesn't have the T-Nuts in the handle, just self tapping screws - are they ok and you just wanted to be extra secure or is this recommended?

On my Mk 2 that is almost the same but 50mm shorter than the Mk 3, I have used black wood screws since I fitted it, about a year ago. It has nowhere near the depth of plywood that Stevie has incorporated into the Mk3. 
 

Interms of weight, I originally had the Beyma driver installed and that is close to 2Kg heavier than  the Faital pro so I have no qualms about using wood screws. 
 

I have now done some calcs. and the 5mm dia 30mm length screws can hold up to 61Kg each into Poplar. Plywood is denser than its donor species so even with the four screws that’s hold the handle on, you have in-excess of 200Kg withdrawal force. I am not sure that the other 4 screws do much except ensure and airtight seal but I don’t have any qualms about using wood screws. 
 

I fact there is no reason why you could not use wood screws for the 12” driver although I would stick with some sort of insert or T nut. I used rivnuts designed for metal as I had some to hand.

Edited by Chienmortbb
More info

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Well mine is like this currently:

IMG_5918.thumb.jpg.6da6f3807edcc73a427da6598f8eec94.jpg

The sides are all on and glued, the top and the bottom aren't connected as yet, just there to make sure everything is square (it wasn't earlier, seems to have straightened up!)

I have everything now apart from the corners and the grill, so enough to get on with for the moment. I will glue the bottom on tomorrow and leave the top for a bit later. 

 

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Yay, and now I have got a fluffy box!

I have done the whole of the inside of the bottom part, bottom panel, sides and back. Is there anywhere else that needs to fluff? like the bottom of the middle strut or part of the top?

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Yes, you can glue a small piece on the l.h.s of the top panel. That should be it.

Edited by stevie
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59 minutes ago, stevie said:

Now get painting!😀

If only I would be able to get the chance before the weekend!

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Drill two or perhaps three screw holes in suitable places on the board and screw directly to the back panel using 15-18mm screws. The tie wraps space the board away from the back panel and the board rests on those.

Ideally, use non-magnetic screws like stainless steel of brass, but if you can't, use what you have to hand.

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That's the wrong fluff, Luke. They did that on me once. I complained and they sent me the right type. If you've already glued it in, it will doubtless work OK. Check what you ordered to see if it's their mistake.

You want the needled felt. The material you have is similar, but it's not as firm, which makes it more awkward to use.

Edited by stevie

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26 minutes ago, stevie said:

That's the wrong fluff, Luke. They did that on me once. I complained and they sent me the right type. If you've already glued it in, it will doubtless work OK. Check what you ordered to see if it's their mistake.

You want the needled felt. The material you have is similar, but it's not as firm, which makes it more awkward to use.

Firm needled felt it says on the invoice. :( It has sat unopened in my lounge down the side of the bookcase since I ordered it in excitement in July and half of it is in the cab now so too late to send it back 

poo

 

very fluffy

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Don't worry about it. The similar fluffy material that chienmorbb and I used for the prototype cabs was actually a bit more effective at damping resonances than the needled felt. It's just that the needled version is a lot easier to work with.

Edited by stevie

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My felt is grey, and now all in. And the box is glued all the way round, and the crossover is in. 

I am lacking the corners (that should have been here last week), and when I have those I will shape the edges. And paint.

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17 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

My felt is grey, and now all in. And the box is glued all the way round, and the crossover is in. 

I am lacking the corners (that should have been here last week), and when I have those I will shape the edges. And paint.

I am at that stage too.

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2 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

I am at that stage too.

I was really careful when I ordered to make sure it all came from the UK, but the corners turned out to be china. They left china on the 18th, they are not here yet.

Don't want to do the corner shaping until I know the curve of the corners. I suppose I could paint the front!

-

Ok, well, thought I would add a bit of paint as I had a bit of time..

IMG_5943.thumb.jpg.69c290ba4f210e85ba55139776f014e7.jpg

Edited by Woodinblack
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So I know you guys all want an update on progress... 
Primer is on, rubbed down lightly and on Sunday the satin coat went on all the skirting and door surrounds. Looks good. Then tue eve I finished fitting the bottom bit of the banister and filling the gaps between the bottom bit and the spindles. So far so good. So just the spindles and bottom bit left to paint in gloss work and then touching up a few bits on the walls. 
The boiler man can't come for three weeks to put the radiators on which is a pain as it's getting cold. We'll survive.

In other news all the wooden bits that Stevie sent me are now glued together into one thing object - and I've started experimenting with TuffCab on bits of wood. 

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