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  1. Cheers - might be worth doing before the baffle gets fitted....
  2. Am wondering whether to make the cutout for the horn a square so I could rotate it at some point if I fancied it.... IIRC the screw holes are positioned in a square on the horn anyway, so the cutout just needs to be slightly bigger to allow rotation....
  3. Main reason for wanting a pair is so they stack to a nice height so I can reach my pint.
  4. Some more progress... Surround to back the handle cutout Braces going in - plus surround for the rear connector plate. For the "sub" cab, we are going to swap the top and bottom panels so the handle is nearest the 12" driver, and also flip the baffle so that when stacked the ports will be vertically above each other - just a visual thing. It does mean that if I choose to convert the cab to a fully tweeter-ed version at some stage, they will end up being mirrored versions of each other.
  5. Exciting.... the knob magician  has just sent through a couple of mixes from our recording session. He's twiddled very nicely.... Hoping the last two come through quickly!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. skej21


      I hear this 'knob magician' is semi-decent...

    3. RichardH


      ....and the last two tracks came through now as well. Few tweaks and we'll be ready to unleash our mediocrity on the world 😂

    4. SpondonBassed


      If you've been tweaked by the knob magician I should be careful that that is all you "unleash".

      Otherwise, good news.  Good luck with the, er, release.

  6. I've mentioned it before I'm sure, but I've found a blunt handsaw (panel saw) to be much better at cutting drainpipe etc than a lovely sharp one. So for those without bandsaws, that's the way to go!
  7. A bit more progress on the evil twins... Cutting the ports to length - overkill with the saw? Nah..... We're using some odd bits of hardware that Mike still had left over, so these will have a rectangular handle ...and a metal connector dish
  8. Hot hair drier works if it is a plastic based "cloth" - not sure what that stuff's made of, so safest to test on an offcut first! And be warned... although a hot air gun can also be used, be very careful not to get too close with it - don't ask me how I know....
  9. Don't worry Stevie, we can check ourselves. So long as there's no design issues with having the handle at the bottom then we can give it a go. Obviously the relevant damping will be fitted to the panels which ever way they go up.
  10. I'm sure there will be clearance, I wasn't sure if it would have an effect on the wadding. Sounds like that shouldn't be an issue though - thanks for the reassurance!
  11. One thing that may or may not be worth taking off to a separate thread until sorted. The "sub" cab will need to be set upside down so the two 12" drivers are as close as possible. This makes the handle positioning a bit interesting. I had thought to just build the cab as designed with the handle on top, but add feet to that top surface so it could be plonked down upside down. A bit of a bodge maybe, but I wasn't sure if having a handle impinging on the wadding down by the 12" driver was a bad idea, so thought it best to keep things as standard...
  12. Roughed out with jigsaw, then spindle sanded to the correct diameter. This just shows what gear is needed to do a good job - it makes the flatpacks a no brainer!!!
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