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Finished! A Bridge Too Far?


Andyjr1515
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[quote name='owen' timestamp='1498245825' post='3323431']
Obviously the case will have an inset cut to shape and then lined in Leopard print fur.
[/quote]
[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498246135' post='3323433']
Why stick at a print? I was thinking a genuine pelt might be more fitting :D
[/quote]

I thought we were going for the Pink Leopard print.. ;) ;)..

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After doing a quick prototype:


I chiselled out an incline for the back block and added a couple of side pieces:


It will all be sanded round, smooth and flush, but will fit like this. Once it's finish-shaped, it will look like it belongs there rather than just stuck on as an afterthought :D :

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In terms of operation, by the way[list]
[*]first I remove the two secondary clamps that sit on top of the unit
[*]thread the stings through , pulled tight and clamped with the primary clamping of the four grub screws facing the volute (hence this side needs to be clear for allen key access)
[*]then bend the string ends 90 degrees forward (towards the end of the headstock) and replace the two top (secondary) clamps
[*]Then trim the excess level with the clamp
[/list]
In practice, it's actually very simple and quick to do but seems to be also very effective. Next time I string it up, I'll take some shots :)

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Another beautiful touch....

Love how you've modified an existing piece which didn't do the job into something that does and also looks good....

With the build approaching the finish line I think sleepless nights await.....

It's like being a kid on Xmas Eve.....












[i]Is it done yet???[/i]

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[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1498307562' post='3323768']
Another beautiful touch....

Love how you've modified an existing piece which didn't do the job into something that does and also looks good....

[/quote]

Thanks, Mick. I should be able to smooth those side pieces later this afternoon




[i]and no - it's not done yet! ;)[/i]

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And so to the saddle.

I used a Dremel with the precision router base and a 3mm bit:


I rigged up a simple guide:



The veneer strips are to ensure that the guide stays perfectly flat and level when clamped centrally onto the body:


Worked fine :)


I then drilled an angled hole, at the end of the slot for the piezo wire - hoping that I got my control cables channel in the right place all those months ago ;) I did :)


...and one saddle slot cut, ready for the saddle to be shaped and tested out :)



Which - all being well - I'll do this afternoon.

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I don't use a thumb rest - floating thumb technique.

We've been going for the most minimal look that you can get...

Looking good, don't you think? I'm expecting Andy to have finished this before he gets burnt as a witch.

Edited by TheGreek
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It doesn't look good to me.

It looks FANTASTIC.
I'm not a fan usually of 'crazy' designs and singlecuts etc... but this one is just lovely. It looks futuristic, but because of all the electronics are hidden, it still looks very... earthy and organic. I love it! Well done you two!

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[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1498468986' post='3324735']
Are we going to get to hear any sound clips? Pretty please?
[/quote]
Once it's all finished and wired up (although as usual, with my set up - no bass rig - it will only be able to be comparative)

Still loads and loads to do before then, though.... :)

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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498242614' post='3323409']
Yes - I think you're right. I went to the local music shop today and talked through with the owner. Although he didn't have any, we came to much the same conclusion. Stunning, by the way, how many respected case suppliers don't put the internal dimensions of their cases on their web sites!
[/quote]

I'm not sure if they'll have anything to fit this but Hiscox quote internal dimensions for their cases, they have been known to do custom fits as well, my friend had a couple of cases customised to fit his schecter tempest guitars.

http://www.hiscoxcases.com/electric-guitar-cases.htm


Matt

(edited with Linky)

Edited by Matt P
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Next task is levelling and re-crowning the frets. There are dozens of ways people do this but, for what it's worth, this is how I do it:


I adjust the trussrod until the neck is flat. I use the back of my levelling beam to check:


I then turn the beam over and level the frets. I try not to overdo this. Here you can see the metal dust where the high spots have been taken down:



Then this is basically my kit:


Decent quality masking tape, a hoscoe crowning file, the wonderful micro-mesh abrasive cloths (2400, 3600, 6000, 12000) and a fret rocker just to make sure!

First I mark any flattened tops of the frets with a marker pen (in this case it was the whole fret):


The re-file the crown with the Hoscoe, using the marker line to tell me when I've got there:



I then wrap the progressively fine grades of the micro mesh round the hoscoe to finish off the shape of the crown and polish out the scratches, ending up with a levelled, re-crowned and polished fretboard :) :

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