Evil Undead Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Hi! So, I feel like an idiot for asking this but I'm going to anyway. My truss rod goes both ways, and has a bit right in the middle where it's loose and has no effect on the neck - I'm told that's normal. What I want to know is, roughly how many full turns approximately do you get both ways from this mid point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamdenRob Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) I've only ever turned mine half a turn at the most either way... much more than that and you could use your bass to shoot arrows Edited April 2, 2015 by CamdenRob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Undead Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 I was wondering because mine takes about a full turn from mid point to get the neck straight, (every time I change strings I return it to mid way and set relief) but I've read that some folks have given theirs several full turns and been ok. I always worry about running out of truss rod even though it's only happened once (not on this bass) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I get a bit nervous when people talk about full turns [i]plural[/i] in relation to truss rods. Are you changing string gauges or brands? If not, why do you need to reset the relief every time? Same strings back on == same relief for the same truss rod setting. Change them one at a time if you're worried about upsetting the equilibrium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfretrock Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Could be quite a bit of slack (backlash) at the centre before tension is applied to the rod. I've never gone there. When changing strings, I check and adjust the truss rod after tuning up. Don't think I've ever had to move it more than you can swing an Allen key betweed A&D at the head. Usually slightly turned right to reduce relief as I'm forever replacing rounds with flats with every GAS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveK Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1427966076' post='2736319'] I was wondering because mine takes about a full turn from mid point to get the neck straight, (every time I change strings I return it to mid way and set relief) but I've read that some folks have given theirs several full turns and been ok. I always worry about running out of truss rod even though it's only happened once (not on this bass) [/quote] Under normal circumstances (if the bass is playing well), or changing string gauge, there should be no reason to touch the truss rod when changing strings. The words "[i]Given theirs several turns and been ok[/i]" and "[i]Running out of truss rod[/i]" are worrying, My advice would be to leave the truss rod alone and take the bass along to a reputable tech, to either setup... or repair. Once you've got your bass in good playing order then do some research, there are probably many Youtube vids explaining the whys/hows/do's and don'ts of truss rod adjustment. It's very easy, providing you know what you're doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Dean Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I wouldn't touch it unless I had to , I know I've buggered mine up but luckily for me it plays perfectly , Jon Shuker is aware but it's been fine for the past year . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coilte Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 The truss rod should rarely need to be touched. When it does, it is usually because a different brand or tension of string is replacing the old strings. Even at that, the [u]maximum [/u]that is generally required is a quarter to a half turn. A little goes a long way with the truss rod. I'd second the advice to bring your bass to a reputable tech and have him check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Undead Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 [quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1427966565' post='2736331'] I get a bit nervous when people talk about full turns [i]plural[/i] in relation to truss rods. Are you changing string gauges or brands? If not, why do you need to reset the relief every time?[/quote] No. Just curious and trying to learn [quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1427966906' post='2736339'] Could be quite a bit of slack (backlash) at the centre before tension is applied to the rod. [/quote] True, probably half of that turn was still slack. There does seem to be quite a bit before it gets stiffer. [quote name='SteveK' timestamp='1427972560' post='2736448'] Under normal circumstances (if the bass is playing well), or changing string gauge, there should be no reason to touch the truss rod when changing strings. The words "[i]Given theirs several turns and been ok[/i]" and "[i]Running out of truss rod[/i]" are worrying, My advice would be to leave the truss rod alone and take the bass along to a reputable tech, to either setup... or repair. Once you've got your bass in good playing order then do some research, there are probably many Youtube vids explaining the whys/hows/do's and don'ts of truss rod adjustment. It's very easy, providing you know what you're doing. [/quote] [quote name='Coilte' timestamp='1427974383' post='2736501'] The truss rod should rarely need to be touched. When it does, it is usually because a different brand or tension of string is replacing the old strings. Even at that, the [u]maximum [/u]that is generally required is a quarter to a half turn. A little goes a long way with the truss rod. I'd second the advice to bring your bass to a reputable tech and have him check it out. [/quote] I don't need to take it to a tech, it's fine. I can get my bass to play beautifully and there's no abnormal resistance when turning the rod. I'm just curious and wanting to learn about my instrument, there's no need to assume there's a problem just because I'm asking a question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1427980272' post='2736635'] No. Just curious and trying to learn [/quote] Curiosity killed the truss rod... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfretrock Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1427980272' post='2736635'] I don't need to take it to a tech, it's fine. I can get my bass to play beautifully and there's no abnormal resistance when turning the rod. I'm just curious and wanting to learn about my instrument, there's no need to assume there's a problem just because I'm asking a question [/quote] Same here, learnt to do it myself, firstly from Fender's official bass manual. Six sets of string on 4 basses last year, two needed a slight tweak after a few months, I'd spend a fortune at a decent guitar tech and possibly a 40 mile round trip. It's not rocket science. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coilte Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1427980272' post='2736635'] I don't need to take it to a tech, it's fine. I can get my bass to play beautifully and there's no abnormal resistance when turning the rod. I'm just curious and wanting to learn about my instrument, there's no need to assume there's a problem just because I'm asking a question [/quote] The simple reason why I assumed there [u]may[/u] (I never said there was...) be a problem with either the bass or the truss rod itself is because you are talking in terms of full turns, which are unusual. Earlier you said...."[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I was wondering because mine takes about a full turn from mid point to get the neck straight, (every time I change strings)".[/font][/color] [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828]This, in my humble opinion tells me that there [/color][/font][u]might[/u][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828] be a problem....somewhere. It also tells me that you seem to be tweaking the truss rod without really knowing anything about how it works, i.e. tweaking...[u]then[/u] asking questions.[/color][/font] Edited April 2, 2015 by Coilte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassjim Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 heres my 2pence worth. really you need to learn how to do this yourself as action,string height neck tension ect are all personal. go out and get a cheap bass thats got a bolt on neck. take it apart and put it back together a few times. this will help you lose the "fear" of mucking about with your instrument. Turn the trust rod as far and hard as it will go to the right without breaking or snapping anything and see what it does on the cheap bass. I found out for myself on a cheap squire I brought some 20 years ago no matter how much you tried to straighten the neck it just wouldnt. it doesnt mean all cheap squires will be the same but at least i could get a proper look and feel for what was going on. On my fender jazz (my now only bass) i probably give the trust rod a slight tweak about once a month cause these days if some one so much as farts next to it i can tell the difference. Over the years you may well become more sensitive to these things. Its no good getting a ruler out as its how it feels in your hands. The weather can change things a fair bit.Hot then cold ect. Its worth the learning curb as im my opinion the perfect set up for you can make all the difference in getting the tone you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Cloud Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I would echo all of the previous comments....tread carefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincam Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I actually think people have a irrational fear of truss rod adjustment. As long as your not yanking it about then really there is no danger if something breaks its more likely the truss rod had a problem in the first place. Small quarter and half turns at most are all that's needed. To answer your question different brands and models will all have a different amount of turns to get a certain amount of relief etc also the same bass with the same neck material and strings will be very slightly different too, due to the small amount of variation in the wood itself to another bit of wood. So there is no standard of how many turns!. And indeed it is normal on a double action truss rod to have that free spinning zone where the truss rod is not exerting any force either way. My current main bass is in this zone as the strings are very low tension they almost need help to put relief in the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Undead Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Thanks Twincam. Yeah I'm not forcing anything, and I should have mentioned in the first post that I give a quarter turn then check relief, rinse and repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincam Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1428049954' post='2737376'] Thanks Twincam. Yeah I'm not forcing anything, and I should have mentioned in the first post that I give a quarter turn then check relief, rinse and repeat. [/quote] Remember to tune up after every adjustment then check relief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiliwailer Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 (edited) [quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1427966565' post='2736331'] I get a bit nervous when people talk about full turns [i]plural[/i] in relation to truss rods. [/quote] Yeah, it could make you wonder at what point the rod is going to end up popping out of the 17th fret!! Funny thing is, I've literally lost count of the amount of Fenders I've had to do multiple turns on as the rod was dead loose, this includes a good few Custom Shops too. (Generally after purchase - so let's not even get into how many shops are useless at truss rod adjustments too, it's not like the old days when less folks feared it...) [quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1427990185' post='2736806'] I actually think people have a irrational fear of truss rod adjustment. [/quote] +1000 I'll leave it at that as I really could write a huge post on just that subject. Edited April 3, 2015 by Chiliwailer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I haven't read all the post, but here's my spin; [i]"A set up from a very good luthier cost me $51.00. I wouldn't go near a truss rod with a 10 foot pole" [/i] Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamdenRob Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 [quote name='blue' timestamp='1428123541' post='2738240'] I haven't read all the post, but here's my spin; [i]"A set up from a very good luthier cost me $51.00. I wouldn't go near a truss rod with a 10 foot pole" [/i] Blue [/quote] I felt like that too until recently. Its really not that difficult once you've had a few goes at it. I don't fear adjusting it all now and it is useful to be able to make adjustments myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coilte Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) [quote name='blue' timestamp='1428123541' post='2738240'] [i]"A set up from a very good luthier cost me $51.00. [/i] [/quote] Be careful about reckless statements like this. I got my wrist slapped by the OP earlier, for suggesting to go to a tech. Edited April 4, 2015 by Coilte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muppet Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 The OP has already said he can get the guitar to play beautifully so it's not a setup that he needs, it's just a technical question he has. I would say it depends on the guitar obviously but I've never actually given more than a full turn in total, though I wouldn't have known the starting point. I would have thought the adverse effect on the neck would be apparent way before you ran out of turns, assuming it's not stripped... I would avoid the return to midpoint and reset process though. That suggests unnecessary strain on the wood to me, for no real gain if the guitar played well when you took the old strings off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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