gabson

Hiya Paul, spot on mate. thanks for giving us a shout on here. I do like basschat, one of the more level-headed forums..! Those frets are probably dull again by now but that's just warwick for you. Once you've worn though those for good id recommend EVO gold fretwire, tougher, the same colour and will last loads longer. cheers jack www.jacksinstrumentservices.com

They're nice, they have a good mechanical life and good plating. It is impossible for them to sound better than even the cheapest jack socket but they do have better longevity. I stock them because they're the upgrading industry standard as used by Gibson/USA fender. they look nice haha! Not to be confused with the Barrel type jack sockets that I really dislike - although switch craft make possibly the best barrel jack on the market they have terrible longevity. I seem to do nothing but replace barrel jacks.

This is how I do my fret dressing, instead of a file I use a beam with abrasive paper stuck to it. I like to use a larger area. There's a detailed photo story on my website here: http://jacksinstrumentservices.com/fret-dress.html -Jack

Hiya, thought i'd chime being the designer. It's not a treble cut that wouldnt be much advantage at all! It's technically known a series/parallel switch. Jazz pickups are usually connected in parallel (thinner weedier sound associated with a J bass) as soon as you press the switch (push push pot) you swap both coils to be connected in series (just like the P bass's pickup are - bigger woolier sound with more output). I'm sure I'm not the first to wire up a J bass this way, but it's a nice mod and a useful sound for sure. It's also got all the "vintage cloth wiring" and component brands everyone raves about. I prefer alpha pots myself anyway but that's another story..........!

Hi Again, Roland's Been working on a couple of my amps recently. Thought I'd include his new website in this post too. so once again: Roland Lumby - Amp Repairer The Amp Clinic Salford, Greater Manchester [url="http://www.facebook.com/theampclinic"]http://www.facebook.com/theampclinic[/url] Tel: 0161 7878 082 He's the only amp repairer I personally recommend -Jack

@ Mr Foxen - the saddles measure 15mm wide would yours fit? Handy to know! @EAD - Just got back in and picked up an email saying that they've got a part and will post it to me as soon as I give them my address. How handy! Wahey! Perhaps as yours was a first batch they've improved the design of the saddles now? Let's hope so! - Jack

Alright Chris, hope you and the bass are getting along!! Just stumbled upon this thread whilst doing some google optimisation for my site Here's a link to some photos I took on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/jacksinstrumentsvcs/sets/72157626851192368/with/5704078028/ all the best mate, Jack

I'm not afriad.. ok so right if its a really bad dent your best bet may be to replace the fret. match the gauge and material and then conduct a fret level and re-crown. if its a light dent maybe a fret dress will cure it As before mentioned, rosewood is easier. maple would need at least a partial re-lacquering! I think either way youre going to need a fret dress. i've seen a strange mark in a fret before which turned out to be a dent that had been filled with something like superglue!

Ive heard KGB are the people, if not follow the M6 and I'm down in salford!!!!

From the master Bill Lawrence: http://www.billlawrence.com/Pages/Pickupology/magnets.htm

Perhaps try getting your magnets recharged? Magnets can lose gauss strength if theyre put into another magnetic field (ie next to a large speaker cone!) cheers Jack

Sounds like a mix of paint type problem to me. Precat is best avoided only go for proper nitrocellulose and make sure you dont apply to thickly trapping thinners! I use northwest guitars for my Nitro (same supplier as mancestr gtr tech) but it's owned by Kev Grey lovely chap. try www.northwestguitars.co.uk - I do! Jack

First post for a while! So right you need to think of a few things: [b]Scale length[/b] - you need to make sure it measure up right so it will intonate correctly [b]Alignment[/b] - you need to make sure it lines up perfectly and you wont fall of the end of the fingerboard [b]String spacing[/b] - make sure the new bridge you have isnt going to be too wide so it falls of the fingerboard at either side! [b]String through body holes[/b] - watch out that any string through body holes match up too. Measuring the scale length is the most important - measure 17" from the 12th fret on the G string the saddle and mark. I cover the area in masking tape so i can draw on it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jacksinstrumentsvcs/5699485845/in/photostream With alignment i like to use a combination of drawing a centre line on top of the masking tape, do the E and G strings trick (if your nut's correct) and checking by eye! I've found a few crappy misaligned neck pockets in my time hope that helps, Jack

Hi Folks - Don't know if youre looking to expand the list but I now send all of my customers at Jack's Instrument Services (www.jacksinstrumentservices.com) to Roland Lumby - The amp Clinic Roland is a long time friend of Dave Lunt who's mentioned on here already [b]Roland Lumby - The Amp Clinic - Salford Tel: 01617878082 - Valve Amp Specialist![/b] Cheers, Jack

Im having some trouble getting my head around this wiring diagram! i have: 2 single coils 1 volume 1 tone (push pull 2pdt) 3 way toggle switch heres the diagram i have for "standard" ignoring the push pull switch. [url="http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/gabsonjackellis/wiring/P1090086.jpg"]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/ga...ng/P1090086.jpg[/url] i want to add a series parallel switch for when the 2 pickups are in use together, is this possible?! any help greatly appr. Jack

You need a modified file. i use a 3 square file with one of the edges ground flat - so it doesnt harm the fingerboard. you can buy something similar at stewmac. dont forget to level off the edges too before smoothing off the corners of the frets off

Ive heard complaints over too much sustain lol

i guess its to do with bending the string or flexing the string too much. i couldnt believe it when i broke the core of a low B by adjusting the intonation. it's becuase i had been flexing one area of the string until it had had enough. Not sure of a way to remedy it apart from perhaps revising your winding technique? Pain in the arse

looks like you got away with this one! nice one

spray mount some kitchen foil into the cavity for the cheapest option!

Whoa there - leave the truss alone. You need to shim the neck from what ive read. Add some material to the bridge side of the neck pocket and this will create an angle there fore allowing you to set the action lower. there's a cracking article on here that's pinned about shimming. Good luck! email me if you need a hand Jack!

Yeah you can alway attack the sctratchplate with a hefty file! Yep ive seen guitars and basses with this weird overhang thing. some even pin the scratchplate to the top of he body!

Heya mate as a matter of fact i do have one. i havent used it for a while. I never had problems with mine used it for all sorts of stuff as its designed for. I had read some stuff on the net about a noisy amp in it and something about loosening a certain screw to help with this????? give google a go on that one. Main trick is: ignore th output knob, set the input until your average playing reaches just under the red peak indicator then set the output to near enough zero once youve let plenty of clean signal in. this will leave less work for the amplifier stage of it to do meaning less hiss. ! let us know how you get on. I found mine sounded great on "keyboard" setting for bass Have fun Jack

Wayy sweet. Yes, please give me a bell and ill happily look at them Lee. Cheers, Jack

Yer it is Put it in and it sounds cracking! now to mod the rest of the circuit without blowing it up...