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gabson

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About gabson

  • Birthday 15/03/1988

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  1. Hiya Paul, spot on mate. thanks for giving us a shout on here. I do like basschat, one of the more level-headed forums..! Those frets are probably dull again by now but that's just warwick for you. Once you've worn though those for good id recommend EVO gold fretwire, tougher, the same colour and will last loads longer. cheers jack www.jacksinstrumentservices.com
  2. They're nice, they have a good mechanical life and good plating. It is impossible for them to sound better than even the cheapest jack socket but they do have better longevity. I stock them because they're the upgrading industry standard as used by Gibson/USA fender. they look nice haha! Not to be confused with the Barrel type jack sockets that I really dislike - although switch craft make possibly the best barrel jack on the market they have terrible longevity. I seem to do nothing but replace barrel jacks.
  3. This is how I do my fret dressing, instead of a file I use a beam with abrasive paper stuck to it. I like to use a larger area. There's a detailed photo story on my website here: http://jacksinstrumentservices.com/fret-dress.html -Jack
  4. Hiya, thought i'd chime being the designer. It's not a treble cut that wouldnt be much advantage at all! It's technically known a series/parallel switch. Jazz pickups are usually connected in parallel (thinner weedier sound associated with a J bass) as soon as you press the switch (push push pot) you swap both coils to be connected in series (just like the P bass's pickup are - bigger woolier sound with more output). I'm sure I'm not the first to wire up a J bass this way, but it's a nice mod and a useful sound for sure. It's also got all the "vintage cloth wiring" and component brands everyone raves about. I prefer alpha pots myself anyway but that's another story..........!
  5. Hi Again, Roland's Been working on a couple of my amps recently. Thought I'd include his new website in this post too. so once again: Roland Lumby - Amp Repairer The Amp Clinic Salford, Greater Manchester [url="http://www.facebook.com/theampclinic"]http://www.facebook.com/theampclinic[/url] Tel: 0161 7878 082 He's the only amp repairer I personally recommend -Jack
  6. @ Mr Foxen - the saddles measure 15mm wide would yours fit? Handy to know! @EAD - Just got back in and picked up an email saying that they've got a part and will post it to me as soon as I give them my address. How handy! Wahey! Perhaps as yours was a first batch they've improved the design of the saddles now? Let's hope so! - Jack
  7. Alright Chris, hope you and the bass are getting along!! Just stumbled upon this thread whilst doing some google optimisation for my site Here's a link to some photos I took on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/jacksinstrumentsvcs/sets/72157626851192368/with/5704078028/ all the best mate, Jack
  8. I'm not afriad.. ok so right if its a really bad dent your best bet may be to replace the fret. match the gauge and material and then conduct a fret level and re-crown. if its a light dent maybe a fret dress will cure it As before mentioned, rosewood is easier. maple would need at least a partial re-lacquering! I think either way youre going to need a fret dress. i've seen a strange mark in a fret before which turned out to be a dent that had been filled with something like superglue!
  9. Ive heard KGB are the people, if not follow the M6 and I'm down in salford!!!!
  10. From the master Bill Lawrence: http://www.billlawrence.com/Pages/Pickupology/magnets.htm
  11. Perhaps try getting your magnets recharged? Magnets can lose gauss strength if theyre put into another magnetic field (ie next to a large speaker cone!) cheers Jack
  12. Sounds like a mix of paint type problem to me. Precat is best avoided only go for proper nitrocellulose and make sure you dont apply to thickly trapping thinners! I use northwest guitars for my Nitro (same supplier as mancestr gtr tech) but it's owned by Kev Grey lovely chap. try www.northwestguitars.co.uk - I do! Jack
  13. First post for a while! So right you need to think of a few things: [b]Scale length[/b] - you need to make sure it measure up right so it will intonate correctly [b]Alignment[/b] - you need to make sure it lines up perfectly and you wont fall of the end of the fingerboard [b]String spacing[/b] - make sure the new bridge you have isnt going to be too wide so it falls of the fingerboard at either side! [b]String through body holes[/b] - watch out that any string through body holes match up too. Measuring the scale length is the most important - measure 17" from the 12th fret on the G string the saddle and mark. I cover the area in masking tape so i can draw on it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jacksinstrumentsvcs/5699485845/in/photostream With alignment i like to use a combination of drawing a centre line on top of the masking tape, do the E and G strings trick (if your nut's correct) and checking by eye! I've found a few crappy misaligned neck pockets in my time hope that helps, Jack
  14. Hi Folks - Don't know if youre looking to expand the list but I now send all of my customers at Jack's Instrument Services (www.jacksinstrumentservices.com) to Roland Lumby - The amp Clinic Roland is a long time friend of Dave Lunt who's mentioned on here already [b]Roland Lumby - The Amp Clinic - Salford Tel: 01617878082 - Valve Amp Specialist![/b] Cheers, Jack
  15. Im having some trouble getting my head around this wiring diagram! i have: 2 single coils 1 volume 1 tone (push pull 2pdt) 3 way toggle switch heres the diagram i have for "standard" ignoring the push pull switch. [url="http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/gabsonjackellis/wiring/P1090086.jpg"]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/ga...ng/P1090086.jpg[/url] i want to add a series parallel switch for when the 2 pickups are in use together, is this possible?! any help greatly appr. Jack
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