ikay

I spent an hour there a couple of weeks ago trying out some of thier vintage basses and was very well looked after by Derek and his staff. I rang them before going over which might have helped. They have a good range of basses including custom shop and vintage.

Just bought some TI strings from Eddie. Straightforward chap to deal with, good communications and quick delivery. Many thanks! Ian

Just bought a very lovely vintage Precision from Dan. A major purchase for me and I went round the houses a bit, viewed the bass and had lots of questions before finally buying. Dan was very responsive throughout, getting back to me quickly with answers and looking into things further when needed. Thanks for your patience Dan, and many thanks for a beautiful piece of Fender history! Ian

Stingray pots have 0.25" (6.35mm) shafts - 6mm knobs may not fit ...

Good to know that it worked. I'm keeping a note of your nifty 5-way switch for future reference!

Something like the iRig core midi interface should do the job - [url="http://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irigmidi/"]http://www.ikmultime...ducts/irigmidi/[/url] Basses with midi interfaces generally suffer horribly from latency and note tracking issues due to the low frequencies involved. The Sonuus B2M midi interface for bass is next to useless. Or do you have an Industrial Radio midi bass on the way?! - [url="http://www.industrialradio.com.au/"]http://www.industrialradio.com.au/[/url]

This thread says it's a .0047 [size=3][color=#000000][font=verdana, arial, sans-serif]uF cap (see 7th post down by Teleharmonium) - [/font][/color][/size][url="http://www.thegearpage.net/board/archive/index.php/t-689218.html"]http://www.thegearpa...p/t-689218.html[/url] [size=3][color=#000000][font=verdana, arial, sans-serif]This other thread says the same thing so probably right (also 7th post down) - [/font][/color][/size][url="http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12786"]http://www.rickenbac...php?f=5&t=12786[/url] I like your 5 way switch BTW, very neat. I take it the 500k preset pots are used to back one pup off slightly when both pups are on to get the sweet spot?

Interesting to hear - but a little lacking in imagination to just recreate a couple of Lakland models ...

+1 for new pot

Is this something that just started happening, did it ever work properly? When you say 'turn it up again' do you mean turn it off and then fully back on again? Or do you mean when you turn it up (part way) it goes off and when you turn it up further it comes back on? A pic of the pot and wiring might be useful.

'String Calibration' mode is detailed towards the end of this page of troubleshooting tips if that's of any help: http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/guitars/variax-guitars-bass-workbench/variax-troubleshooting-tips-r519?st=0#comment_0

[quote name='rk7' timestamp='1398149545' post='2430838'] What's the answer? My bass is made of it, but I'd like to say it properly. [/quote] WIth a hard 'g' apparently - [url="http://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/wenge"]http://www.collinsdi...y/english/wenge[/url]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1397680740' post='2426509'] What is the distance between centres of the Lakland screws? [/quote] Lakland screw centres are 35mm apart. As well as the lateral difference in screw centres, the screw holes themselves are in a completely different position relative to the saddles compared with a BA. Pic attached for comparison. [attachment=160549:Bridge comparison.jpg]

No, a BA (any version) would require new screw holes.

My case is same as booboo and JLP - deadspot on a Squier VMJ around 5th fret of G string. It does exactly as BRX says. Requires a bit of playing around as results vary depending on whereabouts on the headstock you place it. I found a spot which made the deadspot effectively go away (it only shifted it but was much less noticeable). I also found that resting the palm of your fretting hand against the neck under the deadspot when fretting that note can have the same effect. Hand shape is a little awkward but it does the same thing by adding mass to the neck and changing the resonant frequency. In the end I sold the VMJ. I still have the fat finger though, it's a handy thing to have in the parts box!

The decal doesn't look right - the 'Fender'' should be solid black (not gold) and it shouldn't have the 'offset countour body' mark (which was only on a Jazz). So there's a clue there that something's not quite original with the neck.

i have done, what do you want to know?

As BRX and ET say, how much live use it will get depends on the musical situation and the bands you play in. I play fretted in a party/function band but exclusively fretless in two other jazzier bands. Having said that there's nothing wrong with using it for only a couple of songs or just playing it for pleasure. Fretless opens up a whole new dimension of sound and expressiveness, Who knows, it may take you in a whole new musical direction. If it takes hold you won't look back and you'll wonder why you didn't do it before!

Distance from 12th fret to pickup centreline is a fairly standard way of doing it. On a standard P it's 295mm to centreline of the two pickup halves

I find myself curiously drawn towards the K162 - http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Kay_K162_Pro_Bass_Review. I've read various reviews and watched YT demos but would be interested in first hand comments from anyone here who has tried one of these. Or suggestions and views on other retro style basses (either original or reincarnation) that have a certain special 'something about them'. Short/medium scale semi-acoustic or funky little solid body types. [attachment=159785:Kay K162.jpg]

Full details of the old JZ3 here if that's any help - https://www.audereaudio.com/JZ3.htm