BassBunny

I reckon that is an excellent idea. Quite rightly a lot of us don't trust couriers and this is a cracking solution

I think you will find the damaged screw extractor sets require the head of the screw to bite into. I don't think they would work on a snapped screw.

Wondered how long it would be before the "B" word was mentioned.😁

Just sneaked in and got mine yesterday. It definitely says the offer is open until 31st Jan so one would hope that would include today. I only hung on as long as I did in the hope that the artist roster would get filled in. Sadly not.

Still nothing for Sunday so looks like Saturday only for me.

That's the one. Knew it was one of the German retailers.

I stand corrected John. Not that I would ever need one but useful to know.

They might just buy a UK operation to get round any taxes etc. Like Musikhaus? have done with DV24/7.

@pete.young is spot on. They don't make mono barrel jack's. A multimeter is your friend here or if you can wait until tomorrow I'll meter one of my spares. From memory, the smallest tag is tip and largest sleeve.

Just been to Gee Electronics and picked the amp up. They tested it and indeed it was low on power. It was initially diagnosed as corroded jacks in the Send/Receive circuit so it has now been given a full service, (All jacks cleaned or replaced, all pots, switches and connectors cleaned. Some suspect solder connections on the main pcb were re-soldered and then it was soak tested twice for 2 hrs each time. Now been given a clean bill of health and work guaranteed for 3 months. I'll get to test it out over the next day or so.

There you go. A weekend gear fest in Manchester.

I can't tell you much unfortunately. It's been in my parts box for years. I bought it to replace a coil split switch on a bass and decided it was too big so went for a micro switch instead. It's just a standard DPDT On/On/On but larger than most you can get.

@songofthewind has answered the question I guess. I haven't tried a MarkBass Class D so haven't a clue if it has the same balls as the Class A/B versions. The RH450 didn't do it for me. Surprisingly the only head that has impressed me, and I still have it, is a Peavey MiniMax 500. Loud as hell and a great natural tone.

I contacted Real before taking it to Real and their prices are: £35 to diagnose the problem, which you get back if you go ahead. £69 fixed labour, £18 courier fee to send it back + parts. I am pretty sure they don't repair to component level, so parts would be a new PCB. I'm not sure if VAT needs adding to that. I know a couple of people who have had MB products fixed by them and the overall cost was between £170 and £200.

My SA450 is experiencing similar symptoms but doesn't recover. The Volume has been dwindling gig by gig. When I set it up on NYE it sounded like a 15w practice amp. The estimate from Real, ( MB official repairers ), is likely to be greater than the value of the amp. I caught a posting about MarkBass repairs on FaceBook and apparently Gee Electronics, in Warrington, are happy to look at them so it's been with them since last Tuesday. Called yesterday and it's on a "soak test" for the weekend so I get the impression it could be sorted. Let's see what happens when I go and pick it up.

Ashdown will fix any of there products, old or new, including Class D. The problem is not if it can be fixed or not, it's getting the circuit diagrams so you can find the fault Most manufacturers won't release them. Add the fact that modern production techniques use surface mount technology and a circuit board swap is easier for them It looks like the older class A/B MarkBass heads can be fixed. My SA450 has been with an amp tech for a few days and it's on a soak test at the moment. Apparently fixed.

I've got 3 Bass Collection 5 strings and I've changed the pre-amps in all of them. They are well known for having pretty weak pre's. They were all different, but still original Nanyo ones. I've got Glockenklangs in them all now. I've never really had an issue with the B string so maybe it's a brand issue.

You could try a firmware update Peter. Failing that the likelihood is having to send it to Real Electronics in Sheffield as there is nothing user serviceable in the amp section. Main board is about £45, plus £69 labour and £18 carriage to send it back.

Haven't a clue I'm afraid. I was only interested in talking about the Retroglide. Give him a call and see what he has to say.

I had an interesting chat with Dave Green at Ashdown earlier this week about Volume/Loudness. I've got a Retroglide that I felt was not delivering the full beans of 800w and as he designed that particular amp he made some interesting comments. I was comparing it to my trusty MarkBass SA450, which is a 500w amp and I never had the master above 12 o'clock, whereas the Retroglide was nowhere near as loud with similar settings. He pointed out that MarkBass, like most other manufacturers, design their amps to deliver full output at 12 o'clock and anything after that involves a bit of limiter/compressor to stop them going into distortion and blowing speakers. The Retroglide is designed with a linear master control, so full power is with the control wound fully up. Anyone who has used an EA iAmp will know what he is getting at, as they also have a linear master control. His suggestion was to wind the master up full and control it with the input gain. A lot of people seem reluctant to wind an amp up full hence why some are "full at 12 o'clock". Could be the MAG 600 is designed to behave like the Retroglide.

Have a look at Wheresthegig. Could be everything you need.

If you change the capacitor to a 0.1uf one, it will bleed more of the treble away and sound a bit more "bassy".

Here you go..

Absolute sense but having spent decent money on the pickups it doesn't make sense to out "cheap as chips" pots in. If you want a ready built loom, speak to John, kI0gon, who will sort you out. Failing that I might have a diagram for VVTT.