Downunderwonder

It's the economists' purview to figure out the complex behaviour that is the cause. They can't. So Central Banks pull levers to do their best and eventually it settles down as the economists 'predicted' so they all keep their jobs.

Compare the US pricing and the rates of exchange over time to get the true picture.

Chickens and basses. If economists really understood inflation we wouldn't have any. Instead we have people doing what they do and the value of money is decreasing as prices rise. If you're asking "is the rising price of basses out of kilter with inflation?" that is a different question.

The draw is the thing. As WS intimated, the supply has to be rated for the draw that is sucking on it. There are lists of power draws for pedals on the internet.

Yes.

Yup.

Decibels of sensitivity not years methinks.

BB = BigBaby by Alex at Barefaced? Most likely a compression driver rather than a tweeter. There's a bit going on with his HF control that I still don't really understand. Something about a crossover frequency control rather than a level control?

Reverse psychology job done on postal service! No excuse for not treating fragile item as fragile. That's some tough plastic that builders' stuff, ideal for preventing any scratching.

I think you need a little bit of power to make the magic happen. Otherwise we would be awash with passive HPF boxes. Your Broughton will make you so happy you forget all about it.

Either you can enjoy being the foundation or you can suffer. I prefer the former even if it's a dirge dancefloor emptier bar queue generator I would rather not play.

Any real bassist could metal that if required. Funniest surprise I ever got was our guitard plugging his acoustic into his rage pedal and having at it. Pointy guitar redundant!

A high pass filter can give a lot more control over your low end when the flab is eliminated while bass knob is still free to boost or simply not cut.

Did you notice that the rhythm guitar lacked the corresponding swagger? Takes two to Tango.

If you got an 8 ohm cab a simple rule to have would be "1 in 1 out", in that order. That way there is always at least one cab connected and impedance is always in the range. No problem being interrupted mid process. Actually, not sure that works as the second jack is labelled extension with no switch. There could be internal switching on the jack itself so equally possible there is already self shorting on the main one, which would make it all a non issue. Schematic time.

I agree with Dad. It's a string spacing on the smaller side but made that way. Hard to tell from photos but my eyetrometer says 30" scale. Having jumped on a fretless Ubass at 22" and managed fine I say it don't much matter if you have ears. Either you are a fretlesser or you ain't.

Most people don't have the nerve to play the bass on the beat all on their lonesome against the syncopation but it makes the tune.

Your guitar player isn't playing SHA right. The bass bops along with many intricacies that only go with the corresponding rhythm guitar work.

Looks even cleaner than advertised. Score. Mind out you don't break it playing with two guitarists. It will get louder up to about 4, so long as you don't have too much low end in the EQ. Low EQ sliders are there for cutting not boosting. If you RTFM it should say something along those lines, much like my later model. Adding another cab will give you a fright if you jump right in at 4.

If you're going down that road you need to get routine that involves always having one or the other connected to the amp. Failure means you turn on and no sound comes out. If you keep playing trying to figure it out you will be frying your precious tube amp.

Has to be the process as it gets reported. You couldn't play that far ahead if you tried!

Singer has some good pipes to be banging that out at the end of the night.

Might be a parallel blend?

Pines for 300w valve head / worries about fan noise. Does not compute.

You need to be careful ordering birch that it is actual birch ply and not just veneer.