Downunderwonder

Describe the full signal chain before and after the DI is inserted. The reason for the distortion will very likely become clear. With the limited info given so far it could be any number of hookups gone wrong .

When I use a BDDI it's got an EQ pedal as well.

The Jackson Pollock in me agrees wholeheartedly.

I gather the paint doesn't have texture bits in it then. It simply must be left over dust causing the raised parts that have no adhesion or the filled spots would be obvious. I would give it a very light scrape on the white bits and recoat the whole thing. Maybe test a couple of spots first.

Run the paint through a sieve first?

One time I mixed cabs and it was fine. Another time I literally thought the 2nd cab wasn't plugged in because it was much less loud than the first with the same amount of power applied. So you never know what you are going to get with mixing cabs until you try them together. Even then the one on top will be the one you hear tone from when you are on stage. 500w amp will do fine but don't make the mistake of thinking you can't blow up 800w worth of cabinets. At that sort of volume it's getting hard to hear complaining sounds from them. You're going to need earplugs or you will be damaging your hearing.

But the only thing uglier than an ugly headstock is no headstock.

To make it double the volume enclosure it would be less than 1.3x on each side length. Curiously a bigger Elf would need a bit bigger again cooling fan because it's radiating proportionally less heat over the surface than the little one by a factor of 1.3. This might not be too hard because it would have room for 1.3x bigger diameter fan which should be more efficient... Complicated stuff in application this thermodynamics malarkey. I believe sorting the cooling kept Elf from going to production for quite awhile.

Would be much better if it had a steel insert that opens beers.

I am guessing this is one of those GK amps with the 50w tweeter amp and corresponding cab with biamp optional 4 pole speakon feed?

Sounds like the nut is probably stripped of thread or the head boogered. Unlikely the whole rod is turning in place. Maybe the threads of the rod are still ok and a new nut could fix it.

If 200w isn't enough and you aren't wearing earplugs you will be suffering hearing loss before you're done.

When you started out all that was obviously wrong was a buzz coming from the low F fret? Are you absolutely sure about that? If the only way to cure it was slack off the truss rod so far it banana'd then I think there's a problem that isn't truss rod related. But I am far from convinced you correctly ID'd the buzz in the first place. Most people would call it the first fret buzzing on low E if that's what it was. I think you need to ignore that buzz and set it up so the rest of it plays nicely. Then figure out exactly what's wrong. Something tells me it's not the setup if it's otherwise fine but buzzing on the first fret open E. Boogered nut slot, high fret, twisted neck??? Again, you want to be certain of that and then you probably need to go bother a luthier.

Dunno where all the habitual tweakers got to. Stub = heel = the bridge end of the neck. All I know how to do is set up and tweak from "not a million miles away" to get to "close enough for jazz". All of what you're saying doesn't really compute unless it started out as royally fubared and you have done too much. I really don't want to give a full blow by blow on how to do a set up if you already know. First thing is make sure clockwise turning makes neck straighter. A half turn is plenty. Something is way wrong when you say the saddles are up as high as they will go and it still buzzes.

Saddles max sounds like someone may have done a dodgy shim job on the neck pocket. Commonly folk put a single strip under the stub end which puts a bend into the last few inches of neck. I can't tell if you are making correct assessment of the relief or where the buzzing is happening.

Made it smaller. Made it lighter. Made it louder. No mean feat that now you could skateboard to your gig with more firepower than an Ampeg fridge rig.

No. You're obviously not familiar with the skullduggery that is the bass the comes out of an AER. No way you're keeping that with an alternative driver.

Way to land on your feet.

Johnny Cash did U2's One with such magnificent old man melancholy that it lifted the lyrics into wonderful poetry.

Possibly you well over did the fixing rate. When it's grossly out of adjustment it's easy to overshoot as it resettles. If I was you I would attempt to adjust the nut back half of what was put in and leave it for a day to see where it lands.

Trace Elliot TransitB does that along with some pretty gnarly blending drive and a full EQ section that can also be switched in and out.

I'm sure there's plenty that do distortion and fuzz. You need both just right or you're forced to compromise for the sake of carrying one box instead of two. So many tight distortions, so many fuzzes. You may as well have exactly what you want. Tight distortion is in the wheelhouse of a BDDI Deluxe. It also does a clean boost which can be had with or without more drive AND with or without the secondary fx loop enabled.

I was thinking you had clean down, care of the new amp, so two stomps to cover the rest.

Rather than the holy grail I think you would be better off seeking an overdrive and a fuzz that do what you want. Two pedals is hardly a board and it will be whole lot easier to obtain perfection.

The tuner has an aux power out supply point which may save you a potential bad loop. Sometimes the ground reference of a pedal is different after awhile on, or off. I know that sounds like I know what I am talking about but actually not. I had a problem when two particular pedals where both on and not with either on separately. That was how it was explained to me more ot less. Adding an biamp into mix isn't going to help.