Downunderwonder

So long as the impedance is ok for your amp and it makes nice bass noises it doesn't much matter what the power rating is on the driver. It will tell you when it's getting too much power by failing to get any louder as you turn it up. Turn it back down from there a squirt or it will fry. If it's making nasty flappy noises you have too much low end in your signal. Turn down the bass EQ and or volume.

You mean wRAPPERS.

Are those front 'vents' not part of the front panel? Those would be wider than 19'' and not removable I think.

It's only underpowered for those who need crushing volume. The people that buy them seem by and large to be quite happy with them.

You asked what was possible with a driver upgrade. The answer is a shift in tonality with next to no extra volume in the bottom end. Kicking these kinds of cans around you get to know when a plan has a chance and when it's trying to break the rules. The rules can't be broken. No amount of complaints can change that.

Padded backpack.

Depends on the model of Trace. There's lots of different schemes of combos! 17'' racks? Don't think so. 19'' is the standard. Makes me think you have one of the AH series stuffed into a combo? If so there could well be nuts in place at the sides and a lid already? Then you would need custom ears and a 19'' rack case.

DIY. Two slabs of ply for shelves. Another slab of ply cut across at an angle makes two feet. They don't have to be exact mirror images. Flip one over and align the top and bottom. The closer you got to exactly cutting mirrored pieces the closer the ends will match. Trim the ends. Now cut in the lower shelf rests parallel to the bottom. Now you have an angled top shelf with heaps of room under for power supply. By having it at an angle and the bottom one flat you get an extremely rigid structure with 4 screws each side.

Vintage Trace amps can pump a sine at their rated output without overheating. That's the old way of rating. When it comes to slamming a low bass note that happens with a very satisfying transient burst. Hence the legendary "Trace Watts''.

It would be interesting to see if the extra couple of litres made any difference. As I read it, the OP being happy with the low mid bumped tone he has, the green curve would make him really unimpressed trading 4dB down in low mids for a 2dB bump up down lower.

Not really. You keep asking a different question to try to find a solution to a problem that has a brick wall answer. The problem is you don't have enough watts or a big enough box. There is no end run for that. When Bill starts giving you the Yoda speak you should listen harder. My comment was reinforcement. You may have absorbed another point that was made earlier. 4 ohm little drivers will tend to be higher power rated tough little bastards that consequently have less sensitivity to power. From the looks of your box you are stuck with a 6''. Two ways out of your rabbit hole. 1 give up. 2 compromise. We have to go back to the problem and redefine it in order to compromise. You wanted too much. Make a small gigging combo out of a tiny practice combo while retaining all the nice practice amp tones and portability? Not possible. Option 1. Build a new box and put a S2010 in it. Nice sensitive lightweight driver. Still very portable. Make another little box for the amp out of the combo. Strap then together. It's all reversible but you get a useful cab out of it.

Or trying to make a silk purse out of a mouse ear.

It's a case of nobody can produce a mini power amp with all the safety certification for much less than the whole bass amplifier. The intent of the Quilter 800 was more or less just a power amp but the Talkbass design committee wanted more utility so it got two extra knobs. They are pretty cheap to buy.

It has a balanced line out in TRS format. Ideally you need to carry a TRS/XLR cable long enough to reach the floor so you aren't putting strain on anything with an adaptor unit.

The Transit floor preamp is a pretty big leap into Newville for leaning heavily on the SMX heritage of the dual compression with the addition of a blended overdrive, which was the only thing missing from the SMX. Peavey have hinted at a simple power engine or more powerful Elf like head being developed but the existing new Trace Elliot line has all made it to market at a glacial pace all the way along so don't hold your breath.

The other thing to watch for is the nasty cheap knockoff connectors you get on a lot of 'bargain' cables break off in the amp or cab causing major damage as they go. With any luck you haven't munted your amp speakon but be sure to use genuine Neutrik SpeakonTM plugs and don't force anything.

There isn't a big market for stadium stage rigs any more. PA systems in clubs have gotten ridiculous and local bars don't want the doors blown out any longer. Stacking two of the 208 cabs they can take a bigger amp than the Elf and be as loud as the drummer. Bring on the 500w Gnome.

Imgur should be fired.

Successfully putting preamp in between the bass and the bass amp is dependent on getting the gain staging correct. Whatever gain induced tone you are getting from the preamp needs to be under level control by the time it gets to the amplifier's input.

What means this?

As far as I know there's twins with compression drivers = super, and twins without = big.

No worries. I could have been more specific myself.

Rare is the combo that even puts out the fundamental of a low E. Our brains fill it in from all the harmonics. Even most bigboy bass rigs go to hell over anything as low as 40hz.

They wouldn't be called octavers if they didn't lower at least one octave, was the point I was trying to make more gently.

They all lower by one octave. How well they track down past a low A is variable. An octave below your A string will generally cause problems for your cab if you play it loud. Ideally you should put a highpass filter after the octaver to keep it clean.