SumOne

I expect there are nearly as many opinions as there are chorus pedals. I once bought about 6 new fuzz pedals at the same time so I could properly test them side by side with my setup, I knew I'd return 5 of them for refunds - which I did with no dramas (most shops make you pay for the return post now though, often it used to be free). Online orders might be killing the high street but it does have consumer benefits. So if your overdraft or credit card can handle it and you're up for the faff then that's what I'd do.

You've probably tried it, but the EHX Bass clone is about as good as it gets for that Nivarna 'Come as you are' (EHX Small Clone) sound while also having some good Bass specific features, I find the X-over is always useful in a bass chorus. Relatively cheap too. Or, to not answer the question: I think chorus (and other modulation and delays) are one of the few effects that can sound just as good (or better) as digital rather than analogue. Source Audio Gemini is very good and can edit to make just about any chorus sound and also can do other modulation sounds like phaser and flanger. Or, I like the Boss CEB-3 for a subtle chorus, they used to be analogue and then went digital and as far as I have read from owners of both the digital sounds better.

I'm sure they were just laughing at the alternate lyrics rather than the tune or playing skill though!

Taking a headphone amp to shops is worth doing to not be 'on show' and to give a better impression of how they sound rather than how the amp in the shop sounds.

^^ Ah yeah, it seems people have done the start and end of chain thing. And some comments from people that positively compare it to pedals it emulates. I think I'll get one once I have the spare cash.

It isn't clear that it is actually possible to do the suggestion of: input 1 > compress (or EQ)> output 1 > rest of pedal chain > input 2 > compress (or limit, or EQ) > output 2 > DI/amp. Perhaps it is possible, it isn't mentioned in the user guide though. The 2x inputs and 2x outputs seem to mainly be there for stereo inputs and outputs, or instrument input and data connection input. ....but it looks like the pedal can be used for its 8 band graphic EQ and 3 band paramertric, they can be set pre/post compression and the knobs (and alt controls) can be assigned on a preset (rather than global) basis. I'm not sure how well this would work in practice but in theory you could have your default compression but in a preset where the knobs also turn it into an EQ pedal - perhaps with the knobs being for Bass (and alt for freq), Mid (alt for freq), Treble (alt for freq), and Gain. I haven't bought an Atlas yet as have been raising £ selling pedals rather than buying them, but clearly I have GAS if I'm spending time looking through the user guide and giving it this much thought! I'd like to hear more from people that have tried the Atlas side-by-side against compressors it is emulating though, as that is kind of the whole point of it. I mean, Zoom and Helix digitally emulate compressors, but they aren't as good as the ones they emulate so I wouldn't buy them as a stand-alone compressor if that is all they did and cost a similar price to what they emulate. https://www.compressorpedalreviews.com/post/source-audio-atlas-compressor-review says "In a side-by-side comparison to the actual devices the Atlas is intending to mimic I suppose there is nothing like using the real deal. Thats OK. You an get close to the originals though. Close enough for you? Only you can decide." ....which isn't the most helpul expert review of a compressor pedal that emulates other compressors! Is the “Cubic Zirconia” setting as good as a Diamond? Is “Optical Rack” as good as an Effectrode? Is “Studio 76” as good as a Cali 76? If not, then what is the difference - how much worse does it sound?

JMB has worked for me before. I think it would be better if you could seperate 'wanted' and 'available' and to search by instrument. Perhaps a form to fill in when writing an advert would be useful so people are encouraged to include useful information that is often missed off (practice frequency/location is important and is often not included).

Need to look out for eBay on this, I 'sold' a motorbike to someone that then dropped out of the sale and didn't pay. eBay still insisted on their % which was quite a lot and all I got were automated messages from them everytime I tried to explain. Then they started with threatening messages to pay up and my responses still went un-answered so I just closed the eBay account and ignored them. About 3 years Iater I got a letter from some bailifs saying their goons will be around if I don't pay up, so I pu$$ied out and paid up rather than putting any more thought or effort into it. Also, on the 'collection only' thing, I had a Gumtree add that stated that and someone messaged asking me to take the item to a train station to meet for the sale, I said no 'collection only' (i.e. at my house) and he insisted that he would be 'collecting' from me - but at a station at a time he was suggesting. So I suppose for some people you need to spell out 'collection from my house only - at a mutually agreed time'!

Their new Album 'This is what we do' has just been released. These are a couple of my favorites from it: ...nothing groundbreaking, could've been released 25 years ago. Still good though.

^^^ £100 in 1990 is now worth £225 due to inflation though (and the v2 can be got for £253 from GAK, with £150 still roughly the going rate for a good 2nd hand one), so not as much of a cost increase as it might seem. https://www.bankofengland.co.uk/monetary-policy/inflation/inflation-calculator

Complete! Wiring done and pleasantly suprised when plugged in and it sounds like a decent P Bass, controls working as they should, grounding all good etc. and the neck/frets/action are all good. Quite lightweight at 3.7kg. And I guess lightweight tuners could get it down to less than 3.5kg. I'd say it is somewhere between Squier and Player series quality, and it cost about £350 in parts so not too bad value for money (if you don't consider time as a cost!). Possibly will get some volume and tone knobs but I quite like it as it is. And might go for the 3+1 headstock reshape if I get bored/brave. And I might get ultralight tuners, hipshot xtender and a fancy bridge if I feel flash with the cash at some point. But for the time being - job done!

I find something appealing about the simplicity of a Precision, it is difficult to get a bad sound out of them. They have been used on so much recorded music that they almost seem to just be the default sound of a bass - I'm not sure if that is a good thing or not. I like the shape of the body on them too. Some can have necks that are a bit too chunky for me but it seems that lots don't (the Japanese ones and the Player series seem to pretty much be the same as Jazz necks). I'm doing a home build Precison with a Jazz neck. I do like Jazz basses sound for the neck pickup and plucking by the neck for Reggae/Dub though, so in-fact at the risk of ruining the simplicity of a P perhaps I'd like a weird PJ with the Jazz neck pickup. That doesn't seem to be a done thing so I suppose it doesn't work, I might give it a go if I feel ambitious with my build though - something like this (just a cut and paste I did, not a real bass). ......I assume it'd be good for Reggae by playing by the neck to produce a lot of low-end from the neck pickup mixed with the P bass pickup to add low-mids and growl.

That's what I started with. That and YouTube can teach all the theory you need. After about 6 months I think I paid £100 for 3 lessons with someone local. He pointed out a couple of bad techniques I had picked up (bad muting, and plucking strings with inconsistent volume) so I think it was worthwhile before they became too ingrained. Then I found jamming and playing songs with real people very beneficial as bass tends to be a much more 'social' instrument (tying rhythm and harmony together) than instruments like guitar and piano which work okay practiced/played solo.

Thanks for all the useful information. It is taking shape with a Precision body and Jazz neck: Felt a bit nervous putting the full tension into all the strings - a test if the parts can all take it without the sound of cracking wood! But all good, it sounds and plays fine acoustically and everything seems to be lined up as it shoud with what already seems like an alright action before adjusting the truss rod and the frets all seem to be the right height. Tonerider TRP1 pickups (just resting in the cavity to check they fit) and I also have the electrics (from Northwest Guitars), and have some black strap buttons and a string tree to fit. I'm just waiting for a cheap black scratchplate now which seems to be on a month long voyage from China. For the time being I'll just stick with the natural wood, will see how it looks with the full scratchplate or perhaps cutting that down to just cover the controls. Once I've got it making amplified Bass noises I might give painting another go (if I can be bothered taking it all apart again!), probably white, but as I can pick and choose perhaps should go with something a bit more unique like purple. If I feel brave I might drill a hole in the headstock to move the G tuning peg to be facing down (like a Stingray's 3+1) and cut off the end of the headstock just because it seems a simple way to make the Bass a bit more compact and save a bit of weight at the far end of the neck, would make it a bit more unique too. Total cost looks like it'll be a bit less than £350 for parts which is okay if it sounds and plays something like a Squier. If I really like the way it plays then some hipshot ultralight tuners and an xtender might be on the shopping list at some point, but that adds about £200.

Yeah, there is that, but the flipside being that it sort of does. If you wanted to make money from music you got off your backside and headed to your nearest music hall to give a performance and get paid. You couldn't sit on your warm settee and have money roll in without having a physical product being sold.

Like others have already said, I find the main benefits of a 5 are not so much the occasional notes below low E, it is the additional playing positions/efficiency and not having to use the open E and the tone of notes above the 5th fret on the B string. I don't think they are necessary much harder to play than a 4, extra muting but easier to directly transfer playing positions. I do find 4 strings better for slap, and generally more comfortable and lighter though so an ideal world is to have both.

I'm absolutely loving a lot of Nigerian pop music lately. Positive vibes for winter days!

It sort of goes back to being like the days before recorded music - musicians still managed to make money.