SumOne

Nice one, you are probably right about the oil. I did a sand>tung>primer>paint and I don't think I gave the oil long enough to fully cure (and I guess it probably wasn't actually needed at all). I only gave it a few days which is aparrently okay for each new coat to dry but I've since read that it can take upto 40 days for it to fully set (particularaly as I left it in a cool and damp garage). So right now I have sanded it back more so there is none of the white visible and have added a couple of layers of tung oil (about 3 days apart) and it is getting a bit darker. I'm in two minds to either keep adding layers of oil or to leave it in the airing cupboard for a few weeks before painting again. It looks okay bare but is still soft enough that the wood can be dented with a fingernail so it'll either need more layers of oil or some sort of clear coat or paint to give more protection.

It seems like marginal gains, for quite a lot more money than the player series the USA ones are a bit better. But they hold their value well (if bought second hand), so if you have the spare £ it probably is 'worth' it. A browse through prices of alternative brands can make Fender USA prices seem reasonable. (Warwick Streamette 5 £3,500, MM Stingray £2,700, Rickenbacker 4003 £2,700. Etc)

A good thing with bass gear (especially second hand, but potentially sale stuff) is it doesn't really depreciate in value much. With close to 10% inflation and low interest rates on savings it could even be an alright investment....that's what I'm telling myself anyway!

Perhaps I'm too smutty but I can't understand why everyone doesn't notice that and think it'd be a bit embarrasing to be seen on a stage with. Along with Gus and some of the Spectors. I mean, it might be practicle but it isn't subtle! ....and MM Bongo's look like toilet seats.

PMT selling Yamaha BB435 £494 is tempting. That is over £100 cheaper than GAK, Guitar Guitar, Thomann, or Yamaha. (A bit cheeky to list 'was £894' though, even direct from Yamaha is only £645 without any mention of a reduction). They also have the catchily named Yamaha TRBX605FM-TBL for £516, most other shops sell it for about £600 (£689 from Yamaha, so again PMT with their 'was £966' seems cheeky).

Nice! I'm starting to feel the GAS for a Dingwall again. I had owned a Combustion, but it was quite a heavy one and the Ibanez EHB 1005MS seemed a decent lighter and cheaper alternative...and it was good but but not quite as good as the Combustion which just felt like a better made instrument (albeit more expensive and bigger and heavier). If Dingwall make a headless purple sparkle Combustion or NG I'll be selling a kidney to get it.

Inspiring stuff! I had my eye on that bass when it was at Bass Direct and was wondering how I'd go about repairing it - it looks great the way you have done it.

I've now got something that resembles a Bass! Northwest Guitars body and neck fit together perfectly (the body needed the truss rod access drilled out though) All the painting/stripping/re-painting/re-stripping I've done so far might have been a waste of time as the natural look works quite well with the almost matching neck. I'll stick with this look for the time being (at least until it sucesfully makes Bass noises!). Tung oil layers are currently being applied - something I've learned (if internet commenters are to be believed) is that it is a slow process and in some ways might not be easier than painting (certainly not quicker). It takes 5+ layers, each layer needs to be sanded in and left for up to 3 days to dry, and a full cure can take 15-45 days (longer for cold damp conditions). Then I guess a top wax layer might also be needed as the wood is soft and porous, or clear coat......so actually, trying another paint job might be easier (third time lucky!). I've got the electrics (from six string supplies), and the remaining parts are probably on a boat from China right now: Tonerider TRP1 pickups, black scratchplate, black tuners...I think chrome hardware might have looked better if I go for the natural wood look though. I have a normal 57/62 type scratchplate on the way but as the pickup to controls routing is a drilled hole rather than being cut out I'm thinking perhaps cutting the scratchplate to just cover the controls could be a good look (bonus being there are no scratchplate holes in the body yet). Something like an aneamic version of Leland Sklar's (but without the extra pickups and famous signatures!)

Headless Dingwall

I think both Johnny Cash and Gil Scott-Heron did it well, their last albums were some of their best music. Artists need to make music that fits their age and voice rather than trying to poorly reproduce what they did 50 years earlier.

^^^ Aparently the SR300 'E' has upgraded pickups and electronics from the older SR300, so hopefully they sound okay without mods (I am usually more a fan of passive though so I might consider that) https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2016/03/04/ibanez-introduces-sr300e-with-upgraded-electronics/ I'm in the process of selling off my more expensive gear and downgrading everything in preparation for a house move (to get some £, reduce amount of stuff being moved, and as I'll need to quit bands for the time being - so only need a cheap bass for home practice and no need for most pedals and amp&cab), so it is probably a bit of a short-term thing....although hopefully it is actually good enough to keep as a long-term bass, at least as backup. My setup will be about as cheap as it gets: SR300E + Zoom B1-Four.

Thanks. There is one in decent looking condition for sale for £140 on Gumtree, I reckon that is about as cheap as I'll be able to find a reasonably decent Bass so am going to go for it.

I need something cheap and am tempted with a SR300E (2nd hand £170). Seems about as cheap as it gets for a halfway decent bass. All the reviews seem to be great. Any real-life experience from Basschatters?

Cheers, I have a neck plate and bridge now.

Nice one, thanks. That's appreciated. Yeah I think like you say - the white gloss needed lighter coats and longer to dry between them (and inside rather in the cold garage overnight). On the plus side, it looks like stripping this paint off will be easy!

Cheers, yeah I'm not sure why the white gloss is peeling away. Perhaps as I've been leaving it in the garage to dry and it's getting too cold, or too soon to add each new coat. I'll give it another go in a while. The neck looks good, frets seem good and all seems to be well made. I also now have bridge and neck plate so am getting there for parts.

Erm.... it isn't supposed to be looking Roadworn! The paint just seemed to stay tacky for about a week, once I started peeling at it this is what happened! I'm close to cutting my losses and stopping for the time being. This bass is proving to be a mini money/time pit and I'm only at the painting stage! (sanding paper, tung oil, Grain filler, Undercoat, black spray, glitter, heat gun, white spray, = about £80!)

I know I keep banging on about it but I feel the C4 is really let down by being squeezed into the hardware it is in - it is fine for the Aftershock, Gemini/Mercury/Lunar, but there is so much more going on with the C4 that it would benefit for more hands-on control, housing it like the Ventris/Collider/Nemesis would be a big improvement for me.

I assume this is a comission sale and is very wishful thinking from the owner. When I sold a Bass through Bass Gallery they asked me what I wanted to advertise it for and they didn't really question that price, they just put it up for the amount and take their % if it sells or wait for the seller to reduce the price if it doesn't.

Unfortunately, I don't think that is possible.