itu

So you have two options: pickups - (s/p -) vol - vol - tone - output pickups - (s/p -) blend - vol - tone - output When you add the s/p-switch to this, you just need to skip the pot not used. The switch has to have enough poles to make it happen.

My Vigier Passion II could have a twin sister with 5-strings, and a graphite neck with 19 mm string spacing, but because two out of these three specs are already non-existent, I can only dream of such a bass. (No 5-string graphite neck, no wide neck 5-strings.)

Thanks! And no worries, I still have quite a lot of work left. Bridge parts are practically done, but I am wondering whether to do a floating bridge (a shape and strings would hold it in place), or use screws.

What do you mean by this, can you open this up a bit?

That's the very tool you need for balanced tension, and odd tunings including (but not limited to*) very low, tenor, piccolo, and tuning in fifths. * Sounds like text from a bank or an insurance company.

Tension depends on strings and strings only if the scale length and the action are the same. If you try the same set of say 40-100 on a headed or headless bass, the tension is equal. If the tension changes, your tuning has changed. There can be substantial difference in tension in the same diameter string depending on the core and winding. This is up to manufacturers and their specs. Not every G-string is the same. (...and where's my coat...)

I have been using quality silicone cable (similar to Sommer, but from Gotham) since early 1990's. I rely on it, and Neutrik plugs. No need to change, but they require some washing every now and then.

Exactly. I was considering teflon, if I only find the material. If not, then some oily polymer, nylon, pp, pe... At the moment the schedule is set to February. I wish it will be this year.

As I said earlier, woodworking comes from one strange luthier, self learned man. I am just making the hardware. I did not use bearings, and I get your point, @Smanth. Some woods are oak (fretboard) and curly birch among others. The body was an ageold project that I fell in love with, and the neck, well, let's see. Thank you all for your kind words.

This is far too slow... Next steps: hardware. electronics.

Usually every cheapo self build project turns out to be the high budget bass build. And I've been there quite a few times.

Take a look at different pedalboards in the thread. Even looking them may give you hints of what is needed, or should be done. Flat cable plug needs less space than...

Thank you, sir, yes, it is an Xtender. Oh, about measurements: the pickup edge is 3" from D and A string bridges, AND this fretless is 36" (like Overwater C-bass).

That resistor thing depends if you need that boost or not. Consider single/series (for boost) or par/ser switching. You really do not need three options. At least one is not usable. My fretless 4 has only vol and a rotary coil switch.

Similar content, very good.

Your answer is in your link: SPST. Not good. The switch should cut both live and neutral. No shield for liquids, not gigging? Sorry, I still don't get this idea. If the power switch is a must, buy something that is robust, and put some kind of a collar around it to prevent accidental hits.

Steinberger talked about his findings back then (ghost note issues etc.) but I do not find it anywhere. Someone could be brave enough and do some excavation. His comments were very interesting, not only because his background was design and furniture.

I think that flat setting would be helpful when tweaking the amp to a wanted sound. Of course the cab will colour the sound a lot, but the eq will give a good hint on where to go from that. I might take eq knobs away, and put them back to represent flat. (Maybe I have to measure my Soul head. And the Interstellar Overdrive. But measuring cabinets without an anechoic chamber is a chore...)

Yes, you can. But this switch in the picture isn't the most robust choice (not beer resistant, either). The reason for taking the plug from the wall is that there is one less fragile component breaking. If you need a switch at the rehearsal place, I would consider something like this: https://shopdelta.eu/socket-with-switch-mce-13-230-v-3500-w-maclean-energy_l2_p12782.html

Because you are now into old music, you sure need to listen to some of the very special performances recorded. Here's one:

Try Richter's new version of it. Can't say it's perfect, but fun for sure.

@dclaassen had a good one. What kind of old music are interested in? Rameau, Händel are older ones, Wolfgang Amadeus Beethoven et al. somewhere in the middle and guys like Debussy (Prélude á l'Après-midi d'un faune!) and Schönberg represent the later parts in old. I would suggest you to listen to those and find your favourite. Then there are double bass players like Domenico Dragonetti, Giovanni Bottesini, and the much younger Edgar Meyer. I suggest a movie, Tous les matins du monde, which is a story of two gamba players. Remember, gamba is the predecessor of double bass. What was Pino listening to?

Now the two knobs are vol and preset tones. There is one pot and one switch. The switch has maybe six (?) positions and the ROM packs are inserted to a printer serial multipin connector. I have not seen many of these Passions, but played one. The idea was nice but it did not fly. I do not know how many different preamp modules were produced, but they were marked with texts. That semi parametric was the most common option. I think Nautilus system was only put to an Arpege, not to Passion?

I think it would be good to understand basics of the electronics, as well as terms. An "active" (better: low impedance / lo-Z) pickup is somewhat rare. There are only few manufacturers of them like EMG. They have lower amount of winding in the coil and to compensate the level, they have a buffer circuitry built in. The output level is around the same than with a "passive" (better: high impedance / hi-Z) pickup. [I do not go into details, but there are other systems that could be considered truly active, like optical pickups.] One of the most common signal paths of an "active" bass is like this: pickups - blend - vol - tone stack - output Here you can see that usually the only "active" or battery powered part is the tone stack. Actually you have an ordinary bass that has the cheapo tone pot replaced by a battery powered one (check Artec, Sadowsky and alike). Note: a "passive" pickup can have a battery powered tone stack after it. When you find a good instrument that fits you, the modifications are quite easy. You could also consider using an outboard preamp to shape your tone if the instrument feels and sounds good. The unit can be in a pedal format or in some box.

Have an M80 Classic in single and double. A Ray would fit easily, like my fretless 36", and MG Genesis 5 (35").