itu

Good quality silicone cable (Sommer/Cordial/Gotham) + Neutrik NP2X, a bit like Cordial CSI 3 PP Silent 3 m for instruments. Cab cable, like pro snake TPL 1,0 LL. (Except your set has old plug connectors, instead of Speak-Ons.) I suggest 2x2.5 mm2, because people tend to think cables last forever, no matter how bad they are treated. 2x2.5 mm2 is too much now, but after some serious abuse and touring life, there may be 2x1.0 mm2 left. An addition: If you order your cables from @Chienmortbb, he really knows what is feasible and functional. You don't have to care about my previous comments.

Why does it have to be direct fit? Why wouldn't you put the one you want instead? Like this top loader? https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/bass-bridge-with-lock-down-saddles-adjustable-spacing

I see problems coming... When your arm rests against the bass' body, your hand's circulation will be affected. Later on you will find lots of lactic acid from your finger muscles, but you start to talk about CTS, which it actually isn't. A muscle hammer may help, then (and how do I know this?). Playing is just like sports: repeated exercises, warming ups, lots of training. Use a mirror/video to check your position. Do trials with different strap lengths, with different strings. Find the right ones for yourself. (When the sweat of your fingers feels odd, check your menu.) Do you have a teacher? Try few until you find one you feel comfortable with, and you can get exercises you need. Scales may sound boring, but they are good for warming up. Two beat, four beat, walking bass, after some time you can mimic many styles. I would buy these two books right away: https://www.amazon.com/Bass-Line-Encyclopedia-National-Workshop/dp/0739069853 https://www.amazon.com/Standing-Shadows-Motown-Legendary-Jamerson/dp/0881888826

@funkgod has mentioned this earlier, the late https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mo_Foster played the Bergerac theme.

Sorry, I do not remember whether this was done by our piano player, or got it from someone else, but send me a note if I need to remove this because of copyright issues. Hill street blues - bass_1.pdf

@ChrisDev: ever heard about such a website?

Put that Microtubes to the HP link, and tweak the frequency. I like the 400 Hz area.

I won't tell you. Now you lost the chance to play them, and I don't have to listen.

There are a few pedals that tend to act differently to the bass signal, especially if the bass has a hi-Z (high impedance, "passive") output. These include OD/fuzz/dist, some compressors, and envelope filters. You can find them by testing only. If any of your pedals loves to be the first in a row, put it there. Any pedal that is on (processing the signal), is practically pushing out a lo-Z (low impedance) signal. If the tuner pushes out a lo-Z signal, it may be very feasible to put it to another place. Do make lots of trials to find out your own functional fx chain. If you have two or more basses, use different signals (like a simple Precision, and a Kingbass with the paramatrix pre). Note: Impedance has nothing to do with signal level: a hi-Z signal ("passive") may be more powerful than a lo-Z one ("active"), and vice versa.

Love those two Overwater Originals, @BigRedX! Wish I was there when you decided to sell them. Four or five, well it took some time to get used to 5, but now it does not matter. These are my main basses at the moment.

Dear @zbd1960, Please keep these coming. Very interesting stuff, including lots of nice side notes. I like your no nonsense type of approach: the century, or style does not matter, only music matters. One question I do have: how do you put the gamba frets to the neck? How is it possible to tighten them?

It's not so uncommon that something has happened in the delivery. If there's a dry joint, the movement may have affected the PCBA. You can use a wooden/bamboo chopstick to test components. Put the CD on and touch components. Any crackle in audio may indicate a dry joint.

Which preamp you have? If your blend is just a pot, you could consider Noll Mixpot instead.

Bruce Willis (is) under the boardwalk Vinyl monsters Where's my comb? (to some hair heavy group) Paul Old

School days is one extremely difficult song, and I didn't mean that Chuck Berry version.

One of the best I've seen is Björn again. Yes, it's an ABBA tribute.

Amps are nice as they have lots of knobs and lights, but cabs don't. Cab is that big, cumbersome box that has a sound of its own. Put some time especially to the cab. Check the space you have in your (or drummer's) car. What is the max output you need - in dB, not watts. The music you play may also affect the choices you have. My uneducated guess would be something like 2x10" or 1x12" for light weight and size. 2x12", 1x15" are the next steps, and 4x10" to 4x12" if space and weight are not an issue, but you need lots of volume. Two similar cabs usually have the best performance in sound and volume. Two eight ohm 1x12" cabs offer you portability (only one needed) and volume (take two cabs along). Check Barefaced and similar units, and if possible, do some side by side trials, and let your ears decide.

If you use very small DC voltage range, you can find phase: Connect the pickup and hit (touch) it with a screwdriver. If the voltage goes to + side, the pickup is in phase. And vice versa.

D'Addario and others give you direction, but you need to do real life trials to find the right strings. Yes, it costs somewhat, but then you have done the work, and have found the best set for your ears and fingers.

But they do! When you order bigger amounts of magnets, you specify material, shape, size, and strength. Any pickup manufacturer could include details of magnets, coils etc. Why not? Should we ask them?

https://www.daddario.com/globalassets/pdfs/accessories/tension_chart_13934.pdf

The field/strength is the word here. An AlNiCo may be weaker than an Nd. The material specifications are dependent on the production process. Therefore the strength cannot be read from the type. Otherwise it would be like the car manufacturer "Ford" equals fast and tractor brand "Lamborghini" equals slow. Measuring requires expensive equipment. As long as people are not able to measure components, these text based descriptions live.

Things have changed considerably. Instruments are no more treated the hard way. Only if the instrument was very old and would contain those very rare species that a Hofner does not contain.