itu

As you can see it from the diagram: https://www.bestbassgear.com/wiring-diagrams/2B-4b_epoxy.pdf the system is active tone control only. The signal route is: pickups - blend - volume (with the bypass switch) - active tone control - output This is the most common way to do it. With the switch you can bypass the active tone control and the system is like any other passive system with just volume and blend.

Which amp, which cable... your description was quite sparse.

Some ideas, maybe: https://soulman.fi/

I may repeat myself, but that Nordstrand has passive blend (pan, balance) and volume. This is no different to an Artec or Glockenklang or Darkglass or Aguilar et al. that offer only active tone control. Sound differences are related to opamp (battery life varies from 200 to 1000 hours) and frequency choices. Not that they are bad, but not completely active. There seem to be just few companies that have active blend: EMG (their fully active sets), East (that can be switched to fully active OR passive) and Noll (see the Mixpot).

The age-old 5532? Reminds me of old mixer and Alembic designs. It is a dual opamp (NE5534 is the single version), that has low noise, consumes quite a lot of power (for an opamp) and has a low impedance output (this is the reason for relatively high power consumption). There are better and newer solutions, but NE553X has good performance even today. After some search, I found a spec sheet of the NE5534 from July 1979!

Center detent. They are Bal, Treble and Bass.

Real active mixer (that I think East is) has no load effect on pickups, while you turn the pots (they are not related to the signal route the same way). My opinion is that it has the best quality soundwise. Price is around £200. If you are after an active tone circuitry, there are simple pots after the pickups and then the active tone capsule. This way the pots put load to the pickups and affect the sound. These are very common and there are lots of options from a relatively good £20 Artec. I do not think that the quality changes that much if you pay £100 more for a similar design. There are still those Vol or Bal pots that cost £2 each and their quality is, well, mediocre. Which do you think you and your quality instrument deserves? How much that bass of yours cost?

BreadBin was faster but I do have the same question: Is it really active with Vol Vol Tone Tone or rather Vol Balance Treble Bass?

I can not see the op amp types but all resistors are metal film ones (best choice noise wise). It would be nice to see, what is inside those steel boxes (shields) in the preamp. The other has to be the power transformer (leftmost) but how about the other? Those toroidal transformers in the power amp are serious.

This is something I am not so sure about. Usually op amp -based solutions consume low amounts of current depending on the op amps. Older ones like NE5534 (Alembic, anyone?) may consume 4 mA and modern counterparts less than 1 mA. This is the most current hungry component in your preamp. A 9 V battery capacity is around 500 mAh. If the preamp consumes 1 mA, this leads to 500 hours of playing. EMG claims that their pickups run 1000 hours, so they consume 0.5 mA. If you run your preamp (in the bass) with less than full signal, it actually dissipates some of its power, so warms up. My choice is the sound, so I run full signal from the bass.

According to the schema, the 1/4" input has a buffer (most likely hi-Z to lo-Z) before going in to the input transformer. This makes sense, as this X-former obviously is a lo-Z unit. I would see no reason to use a DI-box in front of it. I would point out, that certain bass preamps, and I mean those in the bass itself, could drive the lo-Z input. This would be possible with an XLR-XLR, or a 1/4"-XLR (1+3 to ground and 2 to hot) cable. Wal, Vigier... probably most basses with active output. Would be worth trying. I see no reason to use two buffers before the X-former.

From their pages: "We also machine the tuner holes in the headstock to suit normal tuners which have a 17 mm (11/16") bush. If you want to fit smaller Gotoh or Hipshot tuners we can machine the hole to 14 mm. The neck is not supplied with tuners as standard but it is not difficult to fit your existing tuners. All our necks are supplied with step-by-step fitting instructions and you do not need any specialist tools." Just visit their pages and you can see the necks and options. You can ask for tint (mine has green excluding the fretboard), top-nut for special string gauges, matt (yes) or glossy, every neck has a functional string retainer... And they are very helpful. Dawn even called me by phone that the neck was ready to be shipped - two, three weeks earlier than expected. Top marks! http://www.status-graphite.com/ No, this neck is not fretless, but an example of a Status neck.

I think this thread would be more informational if there were separate questions for: - gauges (sets or individual strings, like E: 30/35/40/45/XX...) - material SS/Ni/other - RW/HR/FW I am not very good in making a questionnaire that shows percentage of different answers. Who is able to make one?

My choice was a plain humbucker: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/337754-mourning-the-passing-of-gas/?do=findComment&comment=3701429

I needed (yes, yes...) a dark sounding bass. I went to a luthier and asked him to help me. I bought a Status MM neck, and I had an old humbucker (Q-tuner, clear and red). He asked me few questions and handcrafted the body from birch. He put all parts together. She is close to a Precision by heart, but still a modified custom that is far better than any P-bass that I have played. Because this dark lady was made for me, she's not a beach, sorry, bitsa. So have you ever been thinking to enhance the best features of your favourite bass and take away the annoying details? Have a meeting with a luthier and amaze yourself. Weight, shape, size, colour, scale length, pickup...

I would give a Status Graphite neck a try. I have two of their necks (fretless J and fretted MM). Lined fretless is a bit like cheating yourself, as it is not very ergonomic to try to see the fretlines. Side markers are a must to me: many double bassist do not need them.

Certainly not. By the way, it would be easier to comment if you'd specify your amp by type and name. It tells more about the principle of the amp (tube, solid state) and so on.

First I write shortly about speaker load and amp, then I will offer you a possible, if not a working solution. Amp can push volts and amperes to a load (speaker). If the load is optimal, the most volts and amperes (multiplied together: watts) from the amp go to the speaker. Now the Ohm's law tells, that current equals volts divided by impedance (I = U / Z). When the impedance gets smaller, the current rises. Sometimes people think that lowering the impedance brings you more volume. Although the amp may see less impedance it may be not powerful enough to push that load anymore. Think it like that you go to a gym. There are two springs that you need to push. The other is short and thick (lower impedance) and the other is longer but more slender. Because of the thickness of the spring wire the shorter is harder to push. Yes, it would only need shorter distance to be pushed together but it is uncomfortably heavy for the user. What happens in the amp is that the current starts to rise and it heats up the power section. If the parts can handle heat, they survive, if not, you get lots of melt metal. It not uncommon, that the power section pushes less power to the smaller (and harder) load. So you get less volume. My slightly unorthodox option to your two cabinet issue starts from opening the cabinets. If the elements are wired in parallel (two 8 ohm elements in parallel = 4 ohms), you might change their connection to series (two 8 ohm elements in series = 16 ohms). Then it would be easy to just use one or two cabinets in the amp. I suppose that your amp is not tube. Tubes love exact matching. Usually transistors like similar or larger impedance in their outputs.

Are the wires colored, so is there a lacquer on top of the wires? Then you need some more heat to burn the lacquer first. Those are such pain to solder. If those wires are really aluminum, you should use oil to solder them. When the wires are under (or in) the oil, the surface will not oxidize and soldering is possible. It doesn't have to be motor oil, you can play with olive oil if that is at hand. You probably need to do few trials first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmjdXKyDEWY Sennheiser sells spare cables...

Those two wires that have that white (heat resistant) sock on them are the heater's wires. Yellow-green is ground. It should go down to the wall plug's earth, so should be easiest to find. Red and blue may be the temp sensor - if there is one.

Soundcraft Ui24R. Fair price, some extra channels when needed, lots of presets (eq, comp, reverb...). It takes just few hours to make all the basic settings to all channels, AUX' etc. You can control it with your phone and tablet via Wifi or use a (big) monitor, a mouse and a keyboard. The only issue so far has been with wireless monitors: If they get too close, the Wifi network will not connect. Around three feet / 1 meter seems to be more than enough to keep it alive. The system itself keeps working but the access was temporarily down. There are two channels for guitar, too. Our guitarist was impressed of the sound. The price was around 700 € / £620 from a local shop. Our main speakers are JBL PRX735. https://www.soundcraft.com/en/products/ui24r http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/vintage/vintage-portable/prx700-series/prx735

OK, here you go: https://chemicalwatch.com/70930/uk-hse-reports-illegal-sale-of-lead-in-solders https://content.govdelivery.com/accounts/UKHSE/bulletins/211f52e I have read the necessary authorized information (sorry: in other languages than English, this is the reason I did not include the sources), and I have been working in the field (R&D in electronics) some time. I do not deny, that it is possible to buy it from some shops, but legal it is no more for us, mortal consumers. There are certain fields (military, aerospace, medical...) that can or must use lead.