itu

Drill the rivet. Use pieces of wood on both sides and put the bent end of the leaf to a vise. Use the vise to bend the leaf slowly to shape. Use some tiny screw (and a nut) to set the leaf back to the axle. You can also make a thread to the axle if you have proper tools and a suitable screw.

And yes, there can be an audible and functional difference. It is possible, and if the system gives you any advantage in producing your sound, this invention may be your key to the stars. We do not have to rely on Leo's 70 year old cheapo sheet metal solutions.

Yes, I did. Because the audio track includes lots of stuff, it is not clear to hear any difference. I am more accustomed to ABX testing since I studied acoustics. YT videos are basically coded audio, which is not the best source for comparison. I do admit, that it is somewhat complicated to produce comparable results in home environment. Strings, playing techniques, audio levels etc. are not easy to normalize. Any processing may hide or enhance subtle details. It is also very important to try to eliminate subjective opinions in these tests. If you are after results that are not objective, then it is another story. It is pretty easy to hear stuff you want to hear. Change new strings to your bass and it sounds a totally different instrument than it was a while ago. Yes, it sounds different, but is it really that different after few hours of playing (I change strings up to four times a year)?

If the string ends are not uniform you should fine tune the scale every time you change the strings. If the strings would be non-uniform you would need to tune the neck - the frets - for the string. Latter is possible, like with old lutes but I doubt that no one would want to turn back time that much. The bridge may be lighter, or it may have rounded corners, but the system is not complete without special strings, which may have special price and limited availability. So far I see mostly sales arguments, but it would be really nice to hear some true benefits to the player and the bass.

If you are about to drive your cab with a DC signal (9 VDC from your pedal board power), then it is a 4 ohm unit, but I doubt that is going to happen.

For a string through body you need slightly longer strings, if that is a hindrance or an advantage. Soundwise you can not hear or feel any difference on stage.

A friend of mine has a Dynacord DSP715. 300 watts, 15", and a built-in compressor. I said I could buy it from him, but he wasn't interested... no wonder. I could find only few pictures (note the slanted front): https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/dynacord-dsp-715-bassverstaerker-300-watt-basscombo-15-speaker/1521869274-74-7334 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/bassverstaerker-combo-dynacord-dsp715-und-zusatzbox-dsp715e/1427561443-74-4472

Thanks, I stand corrected. It seems to be an old rumour, that is misinformation.

Pictures, please. They might give some hints on the issue.

MM SR preamp is NOT boost only. (corrected by @drTStingray) I had a MG Quantum with bartolini preamp. The capacitors could be changed, and they don't have to be similar. This means that boost and cut frequencies could be different.

Where's our lady @Silvia Bluejay guiding people to the previous threads? Or should we add one more main topic about headphones and headphones only? Wireless, wired, closed, every available price point... then we could argue endlessly about responses and comfortability etc.

So, the OC-2 obviously offers the brown noise?

That is probably a question of the attachment. Wood screws are not the only option, but others may require some R&D at home.

Why not? If the width of the individual bridges is thin enough, go ahead.

It does not. It is a wooden bass. Phenolic or rosewood fingerboard, black wooden neck. Yes, I have one. Status has CF basses and necks. If you would have the neck made out of solid CF, you could carry a truck with it. The construction is hollow.

Antyfryta is nice, available in youtube.

Looks very good, any sharp corners?

Glockenklang Soul. Switchable eq, that I hardly need, very functional if needed. The basic sound is very good. A keeper, have been playing with it since it became available, or close.

Peavey G-bass may be a bit newer than wanted. Graphite, 35"... Ibanez Blazer series, maple is common, rosewood a bit rarer. Nearly anything from Matsumoku. Guild Pilot is one nice bass. Kawai is already pricey, MIJ Fender Lytes, Kramer... Japanese copy of some other brand's model like a 4001 or a 4005. But not a single ABG: light sound, mediocre quality.

Culture Club - Kissing to be clever Glenn Frey - The heat is on Huey Lewis and the News - I want a new drug Anaestecia - Cov, no, Cowboys and kisses Cole Porter - I've got you under my skin Puttin' on the Ritz Birdland (nice place like Ritz) Rolling Stones - Let's spend the night together Van Halen - Panama David Bowie - China girl anything from China Crisis

T-16 octaver, custom graphics suitable for diving. Wonderful unit!

Very interesting indeed, thanks a lot!

I am not quite sure that I am following, but I try to describe my choice through standards and one part. Thomann sells these: https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_np10c_neck_fix_bushing.htm https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_np10b_neck_fix_bushing.htm I would walk to a screw shop and ask for these: - DIN 7991 (hex bolt) - to match those Göldö parts (careful with the length, you do not want to go through the fretboard) - DIN 7965 (slotted insert) - to the neck, must fit the previous parts (the slotted end is the head and goes first to the wood) For assembly I suggest one basic bolt (DIN 961) along with a coupling nut (DIN 6334). Put the latter to the first and then tighten the insert to the coupling nut. It is pretty easy to screw these (straight) with the help of a column drilling machine or similar. When the insert is in place, it is pretty easy to open the set with two wrenches, and there will be no forces affecting the insert. Hope I was on a right track and this would help.

Most common "active" signal chain is: pickups - blend - vol - battery powered tone stack - output As you can see, the pickups are blended right away and the volume follows. Then there is the active tone stack, which may include treble, middle, bass etc. If your pickups are simple, two wire hi-Z units and you want to go the hi-Z way, try a Bourns 250k MN or 500k MN. If you want to try an active signal chain (lo-Z), replace the Bourns pot with a Noll Mixpot. It is an active mixer. https://www.noll-electronic.de/guitar-electronics/mixpot/