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Thank you, I should've checked this. Yahaya isn't my favourite brand. A meeting with a luthier might still be an option. A copy of the original would be a nice addition. As my old bass teacher once said, it would be easiest to change from fretted to fretless, if both instruments were the same (meaning muscle memory etc.).

Do not. Do not de-fret it. Do not. Meet a luthier. Ask him/her to build you a fretless neck to the instrument. This will be a very good and valuable investment to the bass and to yourself. You shouldn't mess with a fine neck. You just need another. If you do (or do not) like the combination of the neck and the body, you can go back to the luthier and order a suitable body to the extra neck (be it fretted or fretless).

Check FX loop and other possible jacks at the same time.

You can use a good amount of IPA or similar solvent to clean the track, but you need to "oil" the track after that. Deoxit might do the trick. If you let the solvent get to the axle, you may lose the friction and let that grease reach the track.

@marcblum: Neither am I, but with my Passion... try it!

Bridge PU, push (OK, turn) bass to the max, cut treble a lot. Middle according to your personal taste. How does that sound?

...stolen from a g-word player.

Nd. They are small and powerful. My fretless has 4+4 neodymiums that are Ø 4 mm. You want to open the cavity, use a plectrum:

Women: kingaglyk.com Alissia Benveniste Mohini Dei Men: Tom Kennedy Richard Bona charlesberthoud.com I don't think you lost a thing. These are flashy players but I still think most of the bass work is done in half or first position and with roots and fifths. Good timing is still the key.

That sliding pickup reminds me of Atlansia single pickups. https://atlansiaguitars.com/Bass-Guitar.php

Didn't he have a Kahler tremolo or similar in his bass?

A simple to use is tce Spectracomp. A suitable drive, that's a complicated question. Depending on your bass, and taste, the options are practically endless. Without trying it is very hard to buy anything. I once loaned many units and tried them side by side against each other. One sounded good with one bass, another with another bass. Any comment saying this is the thing should be treated with doubt.

We are 12. But rehersals are always in the same place at the same time. If we are anything from 2 of us and up, we have a session.

Beautiful fretboard wood doesn't need spots on it. That bass looks so wonderful.

This French lady just jumped to my bed.

There's quite some information here about threaded inserts, you just have to do some searching. I like them, easy and functional. My travel bass has a Status neck with inserts. I detach the neck before going to the plane. Soundwise it doesn't matter, wood bolts or inserts, but inserts are reliable, and enable multiple removals without any issues.

The minimum should be like: - power around 50 W (enough for pots) - small tip for accuracy and small places - big tip for big areas like pots https://www.weller-tools.com/eu/gb/consumer/products/corded-soldering-irons/soldering-iron-60w230v-uk https://www.weller-tools.com/eu/gb/consumer/products/consumables/tip-conical-08-mm-wlir60

Depending on your playing envelope will love dynamics. Therefore I have an envelope before the comp. Remember, there's also a connection to the settings of the comp as well as the fx. Comp can raise the envelope to new heights, but my guess is that the pure signal coming from dynamics from your fingers is the key. Yes, this means lots of trials.

Ex-Factor. Factor has tuners in the headstock and no extension.

If you want to push the fx and use dynamics to control them, then comp should be last - and the other way around.

Metcal was very similar. They even provided silicone flaps that you could change tips while hot.

https://doublebasshq.com/gear_posts/what-are-double-bass-extensions-and-how-do-they-work/

Bridge needed just some filing, and nut was made by Status. E (.95) and B (.120) are interchangable without issues. No buzzing or any other unwanted moving.