itu

You are about to buy a bass, but the only reason not to get it is a piezo pickup that has an inbuilt preamp? If you think a piezo creates only hiss, you should test the bass. I have had an Affirma 4 (fretted), and now own a fretless 5. Both are from the first batch, 90's.

You want: 1) zing - SS RW 30, 35, or 40 set 2) flatter response - Ni RW 45, or 50 set 3) dull sound - flats or tapewounds But on top of this, you need to find the set that speaks to you under your fingers. Yes, changing strings costs, but the bass may become the machine you want after few trials. And a new bass costs much more.

I wouldn't bother. I expect the price to be irrelevant to the playability and sound it makes. Collectible? No. Soundmachine? There are better alternatives available. If the production year is important, the price does not mean a thing, although the parts are most likely a collection. "Handmade" details lower the price as well as desirability.

20 000 mAh = 20 Ah, which is quite a lot. 20 Ah / 3.25 A = 5 - 7 h (practical amount, and the amp does not consume 65 W all the time it's ON) I think the biggest issue is can you get all the current you need through the bank and the cable. There may be internal limitations in the bank how big a current is possible. If the manufacturer does not give you reasonable specs, you just have to try and find the limits by yourself. USB is not that flexible system that it looks. I would consider a battery pack of the right voltage, and a suitable charger.

I might try an even cheaper parametric pedal, like Artec. It is easier to use to find the frequency area you want to boost or cut.

Some short scales are on the pricey side: http://www.schorrguitars.de/the-owl-bass/ Check how to order for prices.

Come on, it is a mass produced basic product. Before drilling, check the depth! The hole needs to be deep enough for the insert, but you should not drill to the fretboard, or through it. If the hole is not deep enough, you may remove the fretboard while tightening the insert. So hey...

I've seen him live and he sounded so good, but couldn't understand what happened there in the fretboard. Watching and hearing made my brains go crazy.

This operaation is very doable with a pillar drill, yes. You need to attach the neck solidly, and then it is a straightforward action. To attach the inserts, it is also easy with that pillar drill, because you can keep the inserts straight. Here it is done by hand, but you get the idea.

If your tools are accurate enough, you could drill bigger holes for metal inserts. Even then it may be a good idea to fill the holes with wood (maybe glue is not needed, if the inserts are wide enough to cover the old holes). But that requires good equipment, definitely something you cannot do with a hand tool.

Arranged, yes. Jobim has never sounded like this. In your pages you wonder, which bass is he using. I don't have IG, but managed to see one of his solos there. He has a greenish Moollon 5, a Gary Willis Ibanez fretless (GWB1005?), and a J like bass. Amp seems to be an Aguilar. Whatever the bass is, his sound is pretty soft even with a fretted electric (something I like).

You can add to the list:

I saw a brand new red 5-string Vigier Passion II in a shop (this was early nineties). Ran home, sold my piano, came back just few days later - and that red bass was sold! I then decided to buy a 5-string MG Quantum SPi Custom. I never liked it so much, but played it a lot. Now I have a red Passion II, although it is a 4-string.

I bought it here from our honourable @graham1945. The 19 mm string spacing of the 35" neck was the thing, this is a very playable and stable instrument. I also like the sound of bartolini pickups very much.

The biggest difference is most probably the changes in signal levels. Study the amp's manual.

Power will be spread to the cabinets the way the impedance behaves (impedance is not constant). Also the frequency response may be strange. But the best way to understand the behaviour is to test the set.

@Woodinblack had the best solution. I would continue with a similar modification to the speakers, too. Speakon is much more reliable solution than a plug. Before using the modified set, and while the units are open, I would check all connections from the head to the speakers with the cables connected. DMM with beeper is a valuable tool.

If you cannot lock the cables to that Y-splitter + inputs + output, I see a transformer failure in the near future. Will cost a lot. I hate 1/4" plugs in tube (valve) world. Speakon is a secure option.

Could also be a PPD, pink P day. I think we could figure it out in this company. (No dots, no!)

MTD means Michael Tobias Design, and my MG Genesis is actually designed by M. Tobias (that rightmost 5-string). I think this fits here, some similarities to current models may be seen.

Check these areas with care while moving the connector. Good light helps.

For me the power connector solderings looks bad. Try to move it, and look at the surface where solder meets the board. Are they broken?