itu

My first bass lesson was a shout: "Where's your cable!" Now I carry at least one in every gig bag I have. And one for the g-word player who...

Pino Palladino (fretless MM) using roundwounds. Louis Johnson (fretted MM) using flatwounds - and slapping. If there were rules, just break them.

Those orange pictures cannot be seen here. Convert them to jpeg.

Some want to tame tiny technical errors in their playing (volume based, not wrong notes). This may also help some fx like octavers when in front of the unit. If you want to use all of the potential available of the fx you have, I would put the comp to the end of the chain. Then your playing affects effects (?) before you compress the result. Think about an envelope filter that squeaks after dynamic changes in your playing. I suggest you to try it right after the bass, after an OD/dist/fuzz, and after the fx chain. Turn knobs bravely to get an idea of how a comp really works. It can be an effect or a peak tamer. Many want the comp to cut the peaks (less peak volume), but also to push more vol to the sustain phase of the note (you know ADSR?). That way the volume sounds louder than it actually would be without a comp. Do trials and read more about compression from Sound On Sound articles.

If you haven't tried different strings, it's really hard to judge the instrument's abilities, and performance. Some strings are a match with the bass, some don't. I like 120, too. It (GHS SS RW, exposed core) was the best sounding B string in a Quantum 5 SPi.

Tri-Bass and Quadwave. Let's see if the learning curve is any shorter with the four string. Rack synth is an old BassStation I.

Calling @Chienmortbb. Basics: any fender, toss it. Use quality silicone cable (Sommer, Cordial...) and Neutrik plugs and XLRs.

"The plan is for a straight up punk P bass. Think single volume knob, bright colours." Will you do something different and paint the neck? It seems to be one very rare choice.

Maybe it was available only from Atlansia?

For me rounds are the thing, but finding the right set took quite a lot of time. 1) The right one here means that I use two brands, but similar gauge sets (SS RW) in every bass I have. 2) This helps to carry an extra set in a bass case, because that one suits, yes, every bass. 3) It's cheaper to order 10 sets at one time than 1 set 10 times. 4) The feel is nearly the same through all instruments, although scale lengths (33.8 - 36") have some effect on it. Maybe I am a fanboi of the string sets I use now, but there was a long and pricey trial and error period. Someone asks why I do not list the sets? Only because I believe that everyone should test different sets and find the right types, brands, and gauges that go together with the instruments and playing styles people have. My choice most probably isn't suitable for you. How I see strings: - tapewound: short sustain, lousy sound (which isn't automatically a bad one) - flatwound: a bit more of everything to TWs - groundwound: see previous Every set mentioned so far can be held in a bass until a fret cuts the surface of the string. - Ni RW: flat, pretty full response, good for rock, and fretless - SS RW: enhances highs and lows, thin sets can be really twangy (Miller and King obviously change their strings after few hours of playing) Specialities like a piccolo set can be fun for some time.

Pictures, please!

My workmate brought this awkward record to listen to. What's this? Have to say I've liked his work since. He's a good example of playing only the right notes.

Did I say something about it in the previous page?

Overwaters and Status, models please. Kool set you own.

It could have been HOHNER It's Back because of your effort.

Long ago it was 3 h/d, but nowadays maybe 6 h/week. Not much, should be more.

Fixed.

I don't remember the names but several RH players have had the strap on their right shoulder. Try it!

In the black area where neck meets the body, you could round the neck end concave instead of convex.

MG Quantum 5 SPi, Vigier Passion S II, and a Status MM neck have hollow necks. These I have checked myself. Status has a wooden block in the heel for attaching it. Hollowness introduces some resonances, but as the dimensions are so small, they are somewhere up there. The neck length is still the main dimension. The attachment to the body affects the system and resonance. Can be roughly calculated or simply tested. Truss rod or not, well, if the mold and the structure are OK, the neck can be without it. As long as the neck is stiff enough, and can withstand the string pull, that rod is not necessary. Some want it, I don't.

You can glue nearly anything to a graphite if the epoxy/glue is right. MG has used Chakte kok, our dear @Kiwi uses PEEK, phenolic resin is fine etc.

I agree with the notes written by @Hellzero. Try several basses. When you find a nice feeling one, start the hunt of the best strings. Visit a local luthier for a pro setup. Most of the pickups are like SD, EMG, bartolini, and all sound like they sound. But the setup and choice of strings make the best out of the instrument. We do can discuss endlessly about brands, pickups, scale lengths, etc. "No matter what others try to say, my choice is always the best and the only one." Someone said that the amp and cab should go to 30 Hz, and that's nonsense. A good cab that can produce 30 Hz within 3 - 6 dB of 60 Hz is huge and heavy. A good cab is able to go down to 60 - 80 Hz area (first harmonic), because ear creates the lowest end. Usually all frequencies below 50 Hz are more or less eating your headroom out: cannot be heard, but need lots of power. Handling noises and very lows are better to be tamed by an HPF. Try one and set it by listening. You'll be amazed of the frequency after you have set it right. Cannot be heard, but does a lot.

Start with pickup adjustment or simply turn more gain from the amp. Make a trial with different strings to find the set you like the most with this bass. tapewound - flatwound - groundwound - nickel RW - SS RW ...and of course try different gauges.

They were available from Modulus Graphite and Vigier, among others during late 80's and 90's. MG started to put truss rods back after some people did not like the neck without a rod. I do not see it a must, but as some say, your mileage may vary.

I'll take the one that's left after others have...