Hellzero

For those not knowing it, it's the very first electric bass, an Audiovox Model 736 Bass Fiddle, invented by Paul Tutmarc in 1935. I wrote a mémoire about the subject that I've been putting here countless times...

🤦🏻😂 summarises it all. Was a lefty and they didn't bother setting the intonation again. Fake neck plate. The upper side of the body will fall apart sooner than you might think, the lower side has a huge crack and the center joint is doubtful. The back of the headstock has a strange crack. F*ckef up electronic with wrong capacitor and one linear pot!?! Not a refinish, but a paint removal with some lacquer put afterwards. And the logo is weird. Just what I noticed after a very quick look. What a mess.

The Gotoh GB707 has a plain full shaft, when the older GB7 has a concave at its center shaft. Both will work, with more accuracy for the GB707, and the original Gotohs machined heads are excellent.

They are Gotoh GB7 type.

You are proving with your diagram that has created even more confusion to the OP that you are the one having problems, just see above the mess you've created. I'm really fed up by people like you, unable to explain anything with the correct vocabulary and then pretending others are the culprits. Next time don't interfere with such non sense as the OP was clearly lost and made it to other way round. It's not because I understood your very ambiguous diagram that I agree with all the non sense you wrote. Left is left, right is right and has nothing to do here when the correct words were clockwise and counter (or anti) clockwise, what everyone has been told at school. Period.

NO! Loosening is ALWAYS anticlockwise (except for the rare left thread)! See what you did @JJMotown !?!

Your instructions are "correct" with a drawing, but I hope you're not into anything implying direction or mechanic @JJMotown as your instructions would be a total mess. Use simple terms like clockwise or anticlockwise. This is also the same problem with people talking about front and rear pickups instead of bridge and neck pickups, because I have never seen a pickup at the back of an instrument...

That said @lvrossem, I'm in Belgium too, in the deep South (La Gaume) a few kilometres away from Luxemburg. Who knows...

Urm, urm, if you turn from left to right wherever you are, you are turning clockwise, which means tightening the truss rod, so exactly the opposite, except if it's a left thread, which is quite rare these days.

I preferred the sound of the full GR Bass setup because it was the more neutral (that's their key signature) tone with the upper mids slightly missing in the Glockenklang that was coupled to an Eich amp (which is very similar to GR Bass sound wise). If you like the Glockenklang tone [which was my favourite before discovering GR Bass and now the more than amazing, and hard to find, Hevos (Dutch brand sadly not made anymore) Midget 10 combo], go on, buy it, try it with your PJB head and draw your own conclusions. If it's not to your liking, try a GR Bass Cube AT 112, they are amazing. Or this Hevos Midget 10 cabinet that will certainly be the best choice for you: https://www.public-peace.de/hevos-midget10.html

@JJMotown, your explanations about the adjustment of the trus rod are bit ambiguous, because if I follow your instructions, I'll tighten it even more, which is the opposite of what has to be done. If the first frets are rattling, it very often means that the truss rod is too tightened, so release the tension by unscrewing it a tad bit is way more easy to understand, don't you think. 😉 So, to @lvrossem, first thing to do before going any further is to press the E string (as it's the easiest to see), with the bas on your thigh, at the first and last fret and check if there's any clearance (called relief) in the middle of these two points between the bottom of the strings and frets, and from there if there isn't, just slightly release the tension by unscrewing slightly the truss rod, retune and check again until there's a little clearance. If it's still rattling, your nut is certainly cut too deep, so you can raise it by removing it (a small knock laterally will break the glue), gluing a bit of veneer wood under it, shaping it to fit the slot that you'll clean free of any glue residue and regluing it, then use @RonC method to check the depth of the nut grooves and adjust in consequence by filing them. Otherwise, a fast, easy and reliable solution is to go to a luthier or a shop doing these adjustments and while you're at it change the poor quality strings and have a complete setup made. Watch what they are doing, ask questions and learn how to do it yourself.

Lovely, really! 😍

Being a fretless player myself and liking to add that small touch of reverb you like too, here are my thoughts as I've used all the gear you mentioned. The Eich and GR Bass are close sound wise, the GR Bass being more neutral with tighter bass. Forget the Glockenklang as it will be completely lost in the mix, it sounds terrific on its own, but not in band context. I don't like the Barefaced tone, so won't say a word.

This cab coupled to your head will be terrific for fretless:

Same here old farts, see you in ... 11 days. 🤪

Use this, it will help you to generate all the documents needed and it's totally free: https://www.sendcloud.com/cn22-cn23-customs-declarations/

And super nice job, you can be proud of yourself for a first.

The easiest way would be to drill a hole from the neck pocket through the neck pickup cavity to the bridge pickup cavity. Fast, easy, clean, invisible, impossible to screw.

Thanks so much... 🤪🤦🏻

Just to make you think about it, DPD is a branch of the French Post and DHL is a branch of the German Post... I don't think there is anything else to say.

Here is the condition of the misdirected parcel, so a day later, that I received from DPD today, here in the South of Belgium. It left the Music Store warehouse totally intact 3 days ago. And it's always like that: They simply don't give a shìt about the parcels. No comment! Thankfully, there was no damage to the master keyboard inside. They are the only courier with which I have these problems over here and I also have lodged a complaint for the lost/stolen parcel, of course.

As @fretmeister said, and of course always document your packing process with photos that you send to the recipient and keep records of all photos of the instruments before shipping for insurance purposes, so you can confirm its condition. I've literally sent hundreds of parcels worldwide with only two problems: A stolen parcel in the unlocked French Post delivery van and a totally damaged parcel by Parcel Force. Both were fully insured and fully reimbursed after a full inquiry. In fact, making a real bomb proof parcel takes a lot of time as nothing must be able to move, and everything must be highly protected. At the moment, DPD has lost a parcel I was waiting and has misdirected parcels so many times that's it's ridiculous. And remember that the cheapest courier is certainly not the best.

You can do it perfectly with your router and simple guides locking the motion on the left and right to the desired length of the said router, in just six passes.

Trouble free shipping is UPS or FedEx when it comes to international shipping wherever you are located: I know it's more expensive, but you can trust them. DPD wouldn't be my recommendation at all, too many issues with them like parcels touring Europe before delivery, and lost or damaged parcels are their routine.