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Hellzero

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Everything posted by Hellzero

  1. Hellzero
    @andyhaines if you can try before buying, go on, it's the best way to pick the best cabinet for your needs. That said I would go down the 12 inches speaker road as the 10's may sound a bit dry in comparison and may start farting at higher levels, but not all as it's a matter of design...
  2. Hellzero
    I have a rule of thumb that I tell to every player: If you can't hear yourselves playing, turn all volumes down. Most are dubitative until they do it. And never forget that you first have to match your sound level to the acoustic instrument(s) in the band.
  3. Hellzero
    Sounds promising, but I think you should raise the T40 pickup a bit as the P-Bass pickup seems more powerful. I really like the look it with the added pickup. Congratulations, very nice job!
  4. Hellzero
    Reminds of a rehearsal with a band I just joined... I just stopped playing during it and sat on my amp, waiting, until they noticed it. I told them they were way too loud as I couldn't even hear myself and they replied "Hey, it's stoner music!" I simply replied: "Farewell!" and I left. We remained friends, but they all are deaf by now... So good move and decision @police squad !
  5. Hellzero
    For your personal record, it used to be my job and I'm glad I'm now retired when I read your poor attempts to pretend you're the most clever person on earth, when you are so stupid. You're now on my ignore list @JJMotown as I can't stand plain idiots unable to recognise their mistakes, and yes it's a plural.
  6. Hellzero
    For those not knowing it, it's the very first electric bass, an Audiovox Model 736 Bass Fiddle, invented by Paul Tutmarc in 1935. I wrote a mémoire about the subject that I've been putting here countless times...
  7. Hellzero
    🤦🏻😂 summarises it all. Was a lefty and they didn't bother setting the intonation again. Fake neck plate. The upper side of the body will fall apart sooner than you might think, the lower side has a huge crack and the center joint is doubtful. The back of the headstock has a strange crack. F*ckef up electronic with wrong capacitor and one linear pot!?! Not a refinish, but a paint removal with some lacquer put afterwards. And the logo is weird. Just what I noticed after a very quick look. What a mess.
  8. Hellzero
    The Gotoh GB707 has a plain full shaft, when the older GB7 has a concave at its center shaft. Both will work, with more accuracy for the GB707, and the original Gotohs machined heads are excellent.
  9. Hellzero
    They are Gotoh GB7 type.
  10. Hellzero
    You are proving with your diagram that has created even more confusion to the OP that you are the one having problems, just see above the mess you've created. I'm really fed up by people like you, unable to explain anything with the correct vocabulary and then pretending others are the culprits. Next time don't interfere with such non sense as the OP was clearly lost and made it to other way round. It's not because I understood your very ambiguous diagram that I agree with all the non sense you wrote. Left is left, right is right and has nothing to do here when the correct words were clockwise and counter (or anti) clockwise, what everyone has been told at school. Period.
  11. Hellzero
    NO! Loosening is ALWAYS anticlockwise (except for the rare left thread)! See what you did @JJMotown !?!
  12. Hellzero
    Your instructions are "correct" with a drawing, but I hope you're not into anything implying direction or mechanic @JJMotown as your instructions would be a total mess. Use simple terms like clockwise or anticlockwise. This is also the same problem with people talking about front and rear pickups instead of bridge and neck pickups, because I have never seen a pickup at the back of an instrument...
  13. Hellzero
    Korg B2 + Korg PU-2 + Gator GKB-88-SLIM + RTX 93 + RTX KBX, everything in almost new condition and, of course, fully working. Replaced by a Studiologic Numa Nero, which was itself replaced by a Studiologic SL88 GT Mk2, as I only used it on vacation or as a master keyboard. NO TRADES! PRICE NON-NEGOTIABLE! Asking price, fully insured delivery with tracking number, to your home, for the following European countries (for other countries, please contact us): Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France (excluding French overseas territories), Germany, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and the United Kingdom: €375 (£325 GBP is an approximation and I will only accept payment in Euros; the new price of the whole set is €686)! Shipping to the UK is of course possible and included in my asking price, but with additional customs charges (VAT + other taxes + courier costs), as the UK is now outside the EU, just ask. It will be delivered complete with PDF user manuals, namely: Korg B2 (with power supply and music holder), new price: 419 Euros (https://www.thomann.de/be/korg_b2_black.htm), Korg PU-2 (optional triple pedal), new price: 75 Euros (https://www.thomann.de/be/korg_pu_2.htm), Gator GKB-88-SLIM (semi-rigid carrying case), new price: 109 Euros (https://www.thomann.de/be/gator_gkb_88_slim.htm), RTX 93 (adjustable keyboard stand), new price: 37.50 Euros (https://www.woodbrass.com/stands-clavier-rtx-x93-stand-p20358.html), RTX KBX (adjustable bench), new price: 45.50 Euros (https://www.woodbrass.com/banquettes-clavier-rtx-kbx-p17536.html). A grand total of 686 Euros, new. I'm leaving everything, in impeccable, almost new condition (I'm a maniac for my gear), for €375 Euros, delivered to your home or picked up at my place, in which case I'll be offering a Lewitz/Revoltage HP710 (closed-back headphones), new price 23.90 Euros (https://www.muziker.be/fr/revoltage-hp710). The Korg B2 also has the advantage of being able to act as an audio return via its USB port, which is very practical for using it as a master keyboard on a PC, and having the sound coming directly from the keyboard. Link to the Korg B2 website: https://www.korg.com/fr/products/digitalpianos/b2/ Due to severe back problems (67% officially disabled because of it) plus left and right shoulders injury, without mentioning a painful tendonitis on the right arm, I'm selling all the stuff I'm not using like this one. I've also considerably lowered the price for a quick sale. Don't hesitate to ask for more details, but, please, before asking read my ad first as the answer is certainly already in it! Reminder of the legislation on sales between individuals: Second–hand goods that you buy from private individuals are not covered by EU consumer rules, which means there is no guarantee and no return possible! (https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/consumers/shopping/shopping-consumer-rights/index_en.htm#from-private-individual-1)
  14. Hellzero
    That said @lvrossem, I'm in Belgium too, in the deep South (La Gaume) a few kilometres away from Luxemburg. Who knows...
  15. Hellzero
    Urm, urm, if you turn from left to right wherever you are, you are turning clockwise, which means tightening the truss rod, so exactly the opposite, except if it's a left thread, which is quite rare these days.
  16. Hellzero
    I preferred the sound of the full GR Bass setup because it was the more neutral (that's their key signature) tone with the upper mids slightly missing in the Glockenklang that was coupled to an Eich amp (which is very similar to GR Bass sound wise). If you like the Glockenklang tone [which was my favourite before discovering GR Bass and now the more than amazing, and hard to find, Hevos (Dutch brand sadly not made anymore) Midget 10 combo], go on, buy it, try it with your PJB head and draw your own conclusions. If it's not to your liking, try a GR Bass Cube AT 112, they are amazing. Or this Hevos Midget 10 cabinet that will certainly be the best choice for you: https://www.public-peace.de/hevos-midget10.html
  17. Hellzero
    @JJMotown, your explanations about the adjustment of the trus rod are bit ambiguous, because if I follow your instructions, I'll tighten it even more, which is the opposite of what has to be done. If the first frets are rattling, it very often means that the truss rod is too tightened, so release the tension by unscrewing it a tad bit is way more easy to understand, don't you think. 😉 So, to @lvrossem, first thing to do before going any further is to press the E string (as it's the easiest to see), with the bas on your thigh, at the first and last fret and check if there's any clearance (called relief) in the middle of these two points between the bottom of the strings and frets, and from there if there isn't, just slightly release the tension by unscrewing slightly the truss rod, retune and check again until there's a little clearance. If it's still rattling, your nut is certainly cut too deep, so you can raise it by removing it (a small knock laterally will break the glue), gluing a bit of veneer wood under it, shaping it to fit the slot that you'll clean free of any glue residue and regluing it, then use @RonC method to check the depth of the nut grooves and adjust in consequence by filing them. Otherwise, a fast, easy and reliable solution is to go to a luthier or a shop doing these adjustments and while you're at it change the poor quality strings and have a complete setup made. Watch what they are doing, ask questions and learn how to do it yourself.
  18. Hellzero
    Lovely, really! 😍
  19. Hellzero
    Being a fretless player myself and liking to add that small touch of reverb you like too, here are my thoughts as I've used all the gear you mentioned. The Eich and GR Bass are close sound wise, the GR Bass being more neutral with tighter bass. Forget the Glockenklang as it will be completely lost in the mix, it sounds terrific on its own, but not in band context. I don't like the Barefaced tone, so won't say a word.
  20. Hellzero
    This cab coupled to your head will be terrific for fretless:
  21. Hellzero
    Same here old farts, see you in ... 11 days. 🤪
  22. Hellzero
    Use this, it will help you to generate all the documents needed and it's totally free: https://www.sendcloud.com/cn22-cn23-customs-declarations/
  23. Hellzero
    And super nice job, you can be proud of yourself for a first.
  24. Hellzero
    The easiest way would be to drill a hole from the neck pocket through the neck pickup cavity to the bridge pickup cavity. Fast, easy, clean, invisible, impossible to screw.
  25. Hellzero
    Studiologic Numa Nero. Excellent MIDI keyboard controller with a true grand piano feel (also known as fully weighted) and 88 wooden keys (Fatar TL/40 WOOD), and, of course, fully functional. OS version 1.7 installed (be careful not to install the higher version, which freezes all the controls). Excellent condition considering its age. Comes with an external power supply (unnecessary, as it's self-powered via USB), a USB cable, and a Korg control pedal that works perfectly with this keyboard and can be used for sustain or other assignable functions. This still-relevant MIDI controller keyboard cost nearly €1,200 when it was released. I recently replaced it with a brand new Studiologic SL88 GT Mk2 just for fun, but there's hardly any difference between the two, except for the design and interface... If you look at the Studiologic website, you'll find all the necessary information: https://www.studiologic-music.com/support/numa_nero/
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