Hellzero

Congratulations @Basvarken, you deserve it! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Congratulations @Blondy, you did it, and very well! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Yes, there's an input clipping LED, it's next to the master on its left. It turns red when the input signal is clipping and depending on the output level of your instrument, sometimes, the input gain must be set high, after noon position (very low output passive instruments in Pure Mode, for instance). It's number 17 in the manual.

I also think that making the rotten part obviously obvious (voluntary redundancy) is the thing to do...

I played one when of these Bond Electraglide guitars in a shop in Paris when they were released and really liked it until I saw the price...

If this amp was fanless, it would be perfect.

The bandwidth of the tweeters is in high register, starting at 3500 Hz, so your 1950's 1" speaker in a crap transistor radio definition of the sound seems correct to me, but the volume should be quite high...

And excellent basses, the John Suhr 2 bands preamps is close to perfection, if it's equipped with it, of course.

It's a fair price indeed.

The wiring is totally correct, assuming there's no grounding issues as it's relying on the metal plate and that the pickups themselves are working. Take that multimeter, check the pickups resistance and the grounding continuity. Then come back with your findings.

@PaulThePlug, the original Steinberger tuners are really smooth, not like the licensed ones. It's not an L2, but an XL2 made when the factory was moved to Newburgh, so after 1984, but remember that the company was sold to Gibson in 1987. You have to search for the serial number under the tuners on the side to date it, or if it's a transitional model (1984~1985), in the battery compartment. Check this to have all the data needed: http://www.steinbergerworld.com/L-series.htm And the intonation on this one is totally wrong...

@Bill Fitzmaurice will be here soon to help you, don't worry.

Now I understand why there's no filter in this @Bill Fitzmaurice design... Here are the specs of this Goldwood GT-1016 tweeter: Power handling: 50 watts RMS/75 watts max * Frequency response: 3,500-27,000 Hz * SPL: 94 dB * Manufacturer model number: GT-1016 * Dimensions: A: 5-3/4", B: 2-3/4", C: 2".

My latest addition:

Here's a thread about a BFM Omni 10.5, looks like there were as many options you wanted for the line array of tweeters. And another one here: https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11085

Very nice gesture @bertbass!

They are rarer than the "look another Fender copy" threads, just saying... In fact, musicians are very very very conservative persons and don't like new ideas, when it's not the usual debate "play the root only, if you play bass" or the "Jaco only needed four" argument... It's a bit disappointing to refuse to evolve, and don't tell me that "Leo got it right the first time" as the G&L are very far away from his first designs. That said, I like an old original Fender the way I like tube based amps, but don't own any for the obvious reason that we now have way better designed and sounding instruments and amps. I like them for what they are : stepstones.

On a new sofa...

Here you can calculate a simple RC filter for your cabinet, if you can't find any information about the Eminence "woofer", you can protect your piezo tweeters by using 4000 Hz as the pivot frequency. https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-low-pass-and-high-pass-filter

Eminence speakers have a sticker on the side of the magnet. Furthermore, there should be a filtering capacitor somewhere before the piezos, if not, the first low frequency note will have destroyed them...

The only answer I can give you is that the headphones is independent of the master, so you can use both at the same time, just like with a soundcard with independent volumes. The frequencies below are a guess, but I can say that they are very well chosen, the deep should be around 40 Hz, the bright around 6.5 kHz, the bass around 80 Hz and the treble around 10 kHz, but it's a guess only.

This is the key, no need to have mandolin frets. 😉

It's pure bullshít, that's his left and right hands combined technique, nothing else. I can achieve a fretless tone on a fretted bass too. 😉