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[quote name='alexclaber' post='447858' date='Mar 28 2009, 01:24 AM']But by isolating each harmonic within the note through playing natural harmonics of the open string you can hear how the overtone series stacks up. Of particular interest is how densely the overtones start stacking as you go higher in the series. Alex[/quote] That's not really true, each string "harmonic" is not solely a fundamental, it has it's own series of harmonics. For instance, when taking the harmonic at the 12th fret, all you are doing it eliminating the harmonics to which L/2 is not a nodal point -- and keeping the ones where it is, such as 2f, 4f, 6f, 8f, etc.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='447832' date='Mar 28 2009, 12:22 AM']To make this easier to picture, can you fill in the gaps, or correct this? The 1st harmonic is the one you'll hear when you play an artificial harmonic over the 12th fret, its the nodal point at the center of the string. The second harmonic is the one from palying an artificial harmonic over the 5th and 24th frets. The 3rd harmonic is over the 7th fret, 1/3 of the length of the string. got some gaps to fill for the rest there.[/quote] It's not the string harmonic, it's the harmonic series of the note itself -- the intensity, proportion, and envelope of each of these harmonics, for each note, is what defines the tone. In regards to tracking issues, you are both likely to be correct. I could probably take a guess at what it is exactly that is causing it but it would be purely speculation.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='447770' date='Mar 27 2009, 11:00 PM']I was thinking about the 2 ohm amps I had seen, and the common factor is huge heatsinks, is being capable of 2 ohm mostly a case of being able to control some fairly serious heat?[/quote] As Alex mentioned, there are some serious demands on the power supply as well, if the power supply is operated at or beyond its intended limit (ie if it needs to provide more current than it is capable of) then it is likely that either the power supply will fail due to thermal stress or the transformer itself will fail, again from too high of a current draw likely causing overheating and triggering the internal thermal fuse. Large current draws cause power supply rail sag as well -- this is sometimes exploited in tube amplifiers, but is really only detrimental in SS ones. The huge heatsinks are because every time the current through the output stage is doubled, the power dissipated by the output transistors is multiplied by four. Which causes them to heat up, which causes their internal resistance to lower, which causes more current flow, which causes them to heat up more -- and so on, in a condition known as thermal runaway. Silicon transistors can run comfortably and sometimes even best at around 60 to 90 degrees C, but once this gets up to the critical temperature of around 150 C then that's the end of it.

funny how they've all run for the hills now, isn't it? the one ashdown i had was clean and clear and lovely, and that was a cheapish one!

"explode" might be a bit dramatic. But no, your amp should be fine. Most well built amps are much tougher to kill than people give them credit for...current limiting, output protection...it's all there for a reason! Plus even if the amp says 4 ohm minimum, many can handle a 2 ohm load anyways -- not recommended, of course. Your amp will be fine.

[quote name='jonthebass' post='447053' date='Mar 27 2009, 11:46 AM']but does it make [i]that[/i] much of a difference?[/quote] the short answer, is no. typical americans. but, there's always matamp.

[quote name='The Funk' post='447195' date='Mar 27 2009, 01:20 PM']Woollier than a Christmas jumper from my limited experience. I'm sure people who own them can tweak the controls to get something usable.[/quote] See, this is what i don't understand --- not for everyone, sure, not everyone needs an octave effect. But it's there's one control! And the original signal is unaffected - just the octave beneath is added. My guess is, people overdo it.... And for the record, I've never owned one. Just tried them.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='446672' date='Mar 26 2009, 10:56 PM']To head off on a tangent, would I be correct in presuming that Class A valve amps don't have adjustable bias because the valves always have full current running through them? And Class B (as used in radio transmitters) have no idle current at all?[/quote] IIRC classes C, E, and F are used in radio transmission; class B is only used in applications where crossover distortion is acceptable as an offset to less power consumption, such as in mobile phones. Setting the bias on tubes is not the same as setting the bias in a class AB transistor amplifier, with valves the bias adjusts the amount of plate dissipation and ultimately the amount of power dissipated by the valve -- too low and it lasts longer but doesn't sound as good, too high and the plate dissipation will be higher than the valve can handle, eventually wearing it out. However, valves are much more rugged than transistors due to their much larger physical size, and while an overloaded transistor will often die within uS an overloaded valve can often last minutes or even hours before failing. Class A valve amps, as a result, DO need bias, just like any other valve amplifiers do, regardless of their amp class. Pre-amps are in a different class, as the power dissipated is not dependent on the signal, they are really just amplifying voltage and the current flow through them is very, very small.

[quote name='Clockworkwar' post='446133' date='Mar 26 2009, 04:02 PM']It always works, just alot of the time, you get a horrid sound or it doesn't come across very well.[/quote] That's what I mean, I've never gotten a horrid, unusable sound -- it's always sounded nice. I can't see where people are going wrong? Now, the behringer imitation, on the other hand...

I've had good results mixing an old Shure 545SD (which is basically a SM57, only older -- not quite the same as the new 545SD's) with a DI -- but I think when I can afford it, I'll be getting one of those Heil PR40's mentioned earlier, they look incredible!

i've never had a problem getting it to work and sound good on the few ashdowns that i've tried. ok, not everyone needs an octave effect, but it's one control, how can you get it wrong? O_o

wow, those look really cool. for those who don't know, the key to isobaric designs is that the speakers are on axis and in phase with one another, not just mounted internally. i had a pinnacle supersonic sub a few years back, really really nice accurate bass but not great output for it's size. still, it was a home theater sub, so while quality was important, it didn't really need to put out the same levels. interesting to see how it works out in this situation, i can't say i'm convinced due to what i would expect to be low sensitivity, but i'm surprised all the time and in this case i'd love to be wrong.

i believe several people on here have similar looking cabs (and have also said fantastic things about them), IIRC they were built by the company that originally built cabs for ashdown, or something like that. unfortunately i don't have any info beyond that, but i'm sure someone will know something...

Yea, they just came out this winter...don't think they're for sale anywhere yet. From their site: [i]Markbass Effect Pedals - VLE VPF Booster: our popular VLE (Vintage Loudspeaker Emulator) and VPF (Variable Preshape Filter) filters, a clean boost, and a top-quality active DI box all in one; - Yellow Box: top-quality passive DI box; - Compressore: full featured tube compressor with gain, threshold, ratio, attack and decay controls, as well as a built-in active DI; - Distorsore: flexible two-tube distortion with high-pass filter so you can distort only your high frequencies, also with an active DI output; - Octaver: classic analog effect that adds one or two octaves below, with the option to separate your wet and dry outputs; - Chorus/Flanger: top-quality digital signal processing, with a display and a USB port which allows you to modify the parameters of the pedals on your computer to customize the effects the way you like them! - Riverbero: wide range of high-fidelity reverbs that can be fine-tuned on your computer. - Synth: exciting synth-bass tones, also customizable with the included software and USB connection.[/i] Some might say, shame about the looks though.

[quote name='dood' post='441083' date='Mar 21 2009, 02:08 PM']I've been very impressed with Powersoft Amplifiers. I sold my 1u unit recently. I'm raising the 'ridiculous output power' bar with a big grin. [url="http://pro-audio.powersoft.it/product_list.php?id_menu=271&obj=121"]http://pro-audio.powersoft.it/product_list...271&obj=121[/url] [/quote] Surely those are designed for sound reinforcement applications, and not individual instrument amplifiers? Still, if you ever feel the need to run about 25 4x10 cabs, and finally let the guitarists know what it feels like to always be drowned out, that'll be your amp. ^_^

[quote name='thepurpleblob' post='441593' date='Mar 22 2009, 11:17 AM']They sound great on their own but can lost in the overall sound.[/quote] Funnily enough, that's my experience with 10's, and why I use 15's ^_^ But really, the diameter of the speaker won't make a difference...good and bad designs can be had with any size driver.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='441163' date='Mar 21 2009, 05:22 PM']I've seen similar comments but none of them make any sense.[/quote] Agreed. I'd put it down to psychoacoustics (in the sense of, people will often hear what they want to) and/or reviewers talking b*****ks.

I'm sure a fellow BC member can sort this out for you? I would do it myself but you're a bit far from Cambridge.

pfff, 1200 watts. try one of [url="http://www.bugera-amps.com/EN/products/BTX36000.aspx"]these[/url] if you really want to...err...win? honestly, I can't figure out what the point of that is unless you have about 5 or 6 8x10's. Still, like I said in another thread, I bet it will be very popular in America.

[quote name='tauzero' post='440416' date='Mar 20 2009, 04:13 PM']Yes. It has 150 unusually powerful watts inside it, which is equivalent to 250 of the normal watts you find in most other amplifiers, and 400 of the slightly feeble imitation watts you find in Behringers. They are getting celebrity endorsement for it from Normal Watts-Roy, who is changing his name to Unusually Powerful Watts-Roy in honour of the amplifier.[/quote] [quote name='bass_ferret' post='440519' date='Mar 20 2009, 06:18 PM']I do remember one poster who claimed his watts were louder than everyone else's.[/quote] my amplifier just has one great big f**k-off watt in it. ^_^ equivalent to 250 normal watts of course. Back on topic, it seems like Epifani have created a solution for people who only know enough about electronics to not know what they're doing. My guess is, it will be very popular in America. I wonder what their next "innovation" will be? A [s]VU[/s] "power usage" meter built into the cab?

haha niceee

that's normal, don't worry about it.

[quote name='fifeq' post='437855' date='Mar 17 2009, 10:10 PM']would you post dj mixer and freeview box? mine just broke yesterday, and if i could have it for the postage cost that would be cool:)[/quote] mixer is probably not worth the postage, and i'm not sure the freeview box works....i still need to test it. either way though, i don't think i'll be able to post, but if i find a box big enough for either i'll let you know.

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='436724' date='Mar 16 2009, 10:27 PM']May be interested in the cartridge, just waiting for my missus to confirm her printer model number when she gets in from work[/quote] ok, just let me know.

[quote name='Rich' post='436431' date='Mar 16 2009, 06:42 PM']Or [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Cables/Sleeving/Expandable-braided-sleeving/71513/kw/braid"]this[/url]? This is what I'm going to be using for my pedalboard send/return/power cables.[/quote] ahh, that's good! never seen it before.