rmorris

Assuming you want it to be a permanent thing then for gluing best result would be: remove any finish from where it will be placed (easier said than done accurately), clean any residue with white spirit or similar (and from the thumb rest too) use a good wood glue and clamp for much longer than you think you need to. Personally I'd opt for a couple of woodscrews as commonly used.

Take a look here for 'old' HH service info [url="http://www.majelectronic.co.uk/"]http://www.majelectronic.co.uk/[/url] Interestingly I note that the HH brand seems to have been resurrected now in West Midlands ( have a google )

[quote name='garuf' timestamp='1379169277' post='2209430'] Was looking around in the loft today and decided to pull out my Dad's old Bass guitars I have sort of inherited. I just wondered if anyone could give me a little bit of info on them as googling hasn't really been much help. Two of them are Aria Pro II Magna series (one is a 4 string and the other is a 5 string) One is an Aria Pro II ZZB Deluxe bass. And the final one is a Washburn B-20-8. Got a pic of the 5 string ? Think it might be similar to one of mine. Anyway, nice basses. I'd say hold on to at least the 4 String Magna and the 8 string. Cheers [/quote]

[quote name='afterimage' timestamp='1379276224' post='2210794'] Don't. Forget mains filter tooi had a dimmer switch that caused similar problems. At home [/quote] yeah - lighting dimmers can be evil noise generators. And mains filters won't necessarily help as noise is radiated (as well as conducted back through the mains wiring ). Shielding can be fairly ineffective too due to the frequency. Only real solution is low impedance and/or hum cancelling pickups together with low impedance balanced electronics. 'Starquad' cable might be useful too in extreme or critical cases but this is more typically an issue for the PA soundpeople...

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1379266413' post='2210595'] I have had this on lots of basses especially new ones, the earth behind the bridge sinks into the soft paint, peel it out clean it and move it to a fresh area before screwing the bridge on tightly and its gone. Why and how it hums I will leave to the experts but all I know is I have had that exact problem 3 times at least! [/quote] if the ground connection to the bridge strings becomes disconnected then you can expect noise regardless of whether you are touching the strings or not. In fact might be worse when you touch strings as they are connected to your body and close to the pickups. It can get complicated though as a connection might be made but have a significant impedance. Even if there's no dc continuity ( meter doesn't buzz ) there may still be some continuity at ac due to capacitance. Anyway - you really do need to make sure that everything that should be connected to ground is connected solidly.

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1378982066' post='2207259'] Not this again. Noise goes away when you touch the strings because you're grounding *yourself* not because you are grounding the strings. The human body is a massive antenna for unwanted electrical noise. This noise is picked up by poorly shielded pickups and so you can hear it. When you touch the strings you ground yourself and the noise goes away. [/quote] +1 That's basically the way it works. The strings / bridge / metal on the bass is connected to mains earth / ground all the time. But your body isn't until you touch the strings / bridge. Your body acts as an antennae for electrical noise and if you are near the bass but not 'earthed' then that noise can be picked up by the pickup. When you touch the strings or bridge you 'earth' yourself and the noise is shorted to earth ( slightly dodgy technical explanation but you get the gist or textbooks are available :-) To illustrate - if you weren't near the bass it wouldn't pick up noise from you. If you moved toward it then noise pickup would increase but then (more or less) disappear when you touched the strings. In fact - you get the same effect whether you touch the strings / bridge / or anything else that is 'earthed' - jack plug shell / earthed rack unit chassis etc. Worth bearing in mind that degree of noise pickup is basically related to the impedance of the pickup. Higher Impedance = More noise pickup. Hence why low impedance pickups ( active EMGs for instance) can get away without string / bridge ground /earth connection. wrt the OP's question here I'd suggest taking it back to the shop environment to try ; think about any electrical changes at home esp broadband over mains ; bear in mind that problems can come from floors above/below and neighbouring properties ( brick and plasterboard etc are fairly transparent to electrical noise interference !) Hope you get it sorted or have done already.

[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1376935535' post='2181200'] I got mine for a bargainous £30 in a deal last year. It does a nice tube growl if you use the B15r head. It's tricky to get the levels right without distorting the sound if you use an active bass though. [/quote] Don't you simply adjust the level down in the soundcard or DAW mixer software or somewhere before going into the plug in ?

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1377428193' post='2187312'] Trying to fix a time domain problem using a non-time domain solution is never going to be very reliable. In the long term (especially if you want to do anything serious recording-wise with this set up) you are going to need to position your speakers more sensibly where they are less affected by the room. [/quote] Agreed. EQing one speaker differently is likely to throw problems into other areas. But assuming that a better speaker placement may not be practicable ( I have a similar issue though maybe not as pronounced ) then a way to go might be to place sound absorbing acoustic material behind the speakers and on the relevant wall. Basically aimimg to take the wall reflections out of the equation by getting rid of them. Unfortunately this becomes more difficult the lower the frequency as more mass is needed but it may still be the best way to go. But I've just seen in the pic that the monitors have a rear port ? I'd try loosely blocking that up as an easy first step - using cotton wool or similar. Thoughts ???

[quote name='SPHDS' timestamp='1375827629' post='2166320'] Righteo, cheers for the ideas! Missed out on a MXR earlier (forgot what time it ended.....D'oh!), so back to keeping on looking.....! What are the opinions on any of these, as there seem to be a few on the 'bay....! (and how do they compare to the Boss, which I know seems to be seen as King....!) 1) Arion SFL-1 2) Behringer (various - HF300/SF400/FL600) 3) Danelectro FAB Flange 4) NUX Flanger Core [/quote] The Arion is good. But it might help to say what sounds /examples you are thinking of. Also have a listen to the CHORD flanger pedal.

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1377182162' post='2184450'] I was keeping an eye out for the same thing a while back, to fill the gap where my wireless used to sit! I can't be much help, but for the fact that it was hard to find anything with the right output to run straight into an amp- at least not for reasonable money, anyway. Things may well have changed since I last looked, so I'll be watching this thread too. [/quote] By the right output to run into an amp do you mean simply the output level being too high as it is at nominal line level ? If so can you not just turn down the output /make up gain ?

Tape them off unless ultra tight for space. Heatshrink would be good if you can get a heat gun to use.

[quote name='PauBass' timestamp='1376406048' post='2173476'] I asked this on the recommended luthiers thread but no replies so far so I'll try starting a new thread [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]My '66 Fender Jazz bass could do with a fret-dress.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I'm in the Brighton area, any suggestions who best to take it to? (I know Bernie Goodfellow but not for me this time)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Any feedback on Graham Wheeler in Worthing?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Any other good luthiers in the area, please? [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks![/font][/color] [/quote] Just out of interest and as I am in Brighton - why not Bernie Goodfellow this time ?

I don't have a Jubilee head but I do have the Jubilee 4x10 cab. Can't remember the speakers in it but sounds good.

Bit late to this but agreeing wit the gist of the thread. Cable around 1sq mm is plenty. In cable spec terms that's equivalent to 18 AWG or 32/0.2 cable ( ie 32 strands of 0.2 mm diameter wire ). It's also available in other strand / diameter configurations but 32/0.2 is readily available and offers good flexibility. Larger diameters do no harm but if using solder ( as opposed to push on tag etc ) connections you need to be sure soldering iron is nice and hot enough to ensure a good joint as more copper draws more heat away from the joint itself meaning the joint can become a weak point. And as mentioned it's a good idea to fix the cables.

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1370440548' post='2100879'] Another thing you might try is to reinsert the bushings for the larger tuners and see if that brings the inside diameter down to the point the new bushings will fit inside them. That's what I did when changing out the old "elephant ear" tuners on my bass for Hipshot Ultralights: I just kept the old bushings on the headstock and installed the Ultralights in them. This saved me much time, energy and consternation. [/quote] That sounds a much better approach to me. Much less hassle and less to go wrong compared to glueing etc. But I wondering if you could simply get complete tuners with the correct dimensions ?

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1371039940' post='2108952'] The idea for the twin switched batteries was in case I ended up with a preamp that could run at either 9v or 18v for extra boost. Being able to switch to parallel allows both batteries to drain at the same rate while still producing [/quote] It's not really a good idea to simply put two batteries in parallel . Two batteries won't be exactly the same and the extra circuitry required to get proper current sharing isn't worth the bother.