rmorris

M2 30mm Black Pozi CSK Have to buy min 100 it seems. They also listed in smaller quantity from same supplier on Amazon but showing as out of stock [url="http://www.accuscrews.co.uk/black-pozi-countersunk-screws/26765-SPK-M2-30-A2-BL.html?uk_google_shopping&gclid=CM_5ysqihMMCFVHItAodH0YAjw"]http://www.accuscrew...CFVHItAodH0YAjw[/url]

yeah - better to have said 'different' grades since it's all dependent on desired characteristics. It happens that simply cold working a 'non magnetic' stainless steel will make it a litte bit magnetic - though probably not relevant to guitar string manufacture.

There are different grades of 'stainless steel'. 'Lower grades' can exhibit ferromagnetic properties.

[quote name='umpdv5000' timestamp='1419770963' post='2642555'] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=5]As a luthier I can confirm that most guitar builders will use a slightly highter fret for the Zero fret, although this is as much a technical matter as it is a preference. In a perfect engineering world, it should be exactly the same height as the rest. However, there are two things to take into account....[/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=5]1. Player enthusiasm. Any string will rattle a bit if you hit it hard enough and so many players have been used to giving the open strings an extra whack whilst expecting them to be rattle free. A slightly higher fret will better allow this.[/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=5]2. Getting an angle over the Zero fret so that it connects firmly. When a regular nut slot is cut, the bottom of the slot is not parallel to the fretboard. It is cut sloping toward the head so as to pivot on the fretboard edge of the nut. A Zero fret still needs a sufficient angle in order that the string frets properly. As long as the wood between the deep cut nut string guides does not inhibit this, then a Zero fret of the same height will work perfectly well and depending on the player, be more preferable. [/size][/font] [/quote] I get the second point but not the first... I'm not sure why a player would hit an open string harder than a fretted string - although oddly it does instinctively seem that it might be the case !

They look great ! Can you give the ordering/supplier details and cost ? Nice job :-)

You should be able to pick up a decent stereo hifi amp for ,say, £50 on Gumtree / Ebay. on selling the SVT3 Pro - guess how quickly you can shift it depends on how much you're asking and condition. Also whether offering to post / parcel it . Good Luck.

The possible issue with having the zero fret (or nut) uniform with the other 'regular' frets is that the string is always anchored there. This can lead to additional string on fret contact noise from the 'non sounding' section of string when fretting notes. I'll agree that this might not apply to an instrument set up 'perfectly' to avoid this but that's a tall order. And it won't matter to many players but it can be a reason to have zero fret / nut height a tad higher. The nearer it is to uniform will benefit intonation etc.

Back on topic: Get the Guitars to cut their low end below 150 to 200Hz. Bear in mind that for recording purposes it's usual to do this even though it sounds not so great in isolation. You may need to boost mids to get audible. Again may not sound great soloed but works better in band contest. Assuming all bass guitar coming from your amp then it's going to be something of a compromise between monitor sound and what the audience hears. More esoterically: If Kick Drum is double headed try to tune it to mask your bass less Consider if in ear monitors are practicable ? Good Luck !....

re: PS: Is it just me that finds typing on here difficult?????? Keeps missing letters Strangely that happens from my work PC (lunchtimes of course :-) and also it doesn't work with the 'Quote' functions. But home PC is fine. Firewall etc ???

Just to reinforce the idea that 31 band graphics are essentially used to 'tune' PAs to rooms by compensating for acoustic anomalies. A good 4 band parametric with variable or switchable Q and a choice of peak or shelf on the High and Low Bands would be a betoter option for comprehensive tone eq (think good mixing desk channel).

Go with Neutrik on the jacks. They have a 'proper' adjusting collet mechanism to grip the cable rather than some bit of metal to bend into place. Plus a decent contact for the screen connection and the construction doesn't have the rivet that often comes loose and spins round in lesser connectors.

Could try to pick up an Alesis NanoCompressor on ebay etc.

Just took a look at Accucase bags on Thomann. Look pretty good and affordable. (I would have included the original post but the Quote feature not working from this PC. Some setting or other I guess)

The Mono Producer looks really nice . Not Cheap though !

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1414013019' post='2584941'] . An active bass already buffers the signal, increasing the impedance so that it can drop furtherer before the effects are noticeable. .[/quote] Not quite. The active circuit lowers the output impedance of the signal. This does mean that more level is delivered to the next stage in the signal path (rather than being dropped over the impedance of the pickup itself ). Then it gets a bit more complicated due to reactive impedances ( Inductance / Capacitance ) which give frequency and phase effects.

Okay. Just took a look at the weblink. Fair bit of 'marketing speak' on there. So, to be clear. the transducers are part of the Blastcircuit system ? And the microphonic noise appears to be caused by tapping the preamp (ie not the pickups themselves). If that's the case then first suspects would be capacitors esp Electroytics then Ceramics ... Try tapping them with a pencil and see if that makes a noise though the amp...

Not familiar with the Blast Cult preamp. Tubes / Solid State ?

Hi all. I 've never really got the hang of these feedback pages on here and landed here by accident just now. Thanks for all your comments. Robert

But as I read it the OP is looking to mount it with the instrument against the wall horizontally or diagonally to display it ?

It would make these sort of discussions much more useful if people referenced the sort of sounds and tones they are looking to get...

Are we sure the red component is a capacitor ? I thought it might be a MOV Varistor for Overvoltage protection ?

Leads in 2014 are pretty much the same as in 1994 !!! If your Whirlwinds are not showing signs of wear and tear then there's no real reason to change. If you need new leads then I'd go along the lines of Klotz Instrument Cable with Neutrik or Switchcraft jacks. I think Studiospares have cables like this.

well it would seem that the two cables aren't wired the same. Most likely to myself would be one cable having 'L' (pin 2) connected to 'GND/Screen' (pin1) an the other having 'R' (pin3) connected to pin1. Both of these cables could function between a balanced output and input but not when in series. Should be easy enough to undo XLR connectors and take a look or buzz out with a DMM.

Well the 20 Ohm itself wouldn't be significant wrt a typical input impedance of 100K - 1M0 on an amp or even a typical 10K of a line input. But it does indicate something wrong with the construction of the cable since it shouldn't be that high. Since it seems possible to measure a dc resistance then that indicates it's not a complete break in the cable itself. Something in the plug(s) appears to be introducing excessive signal to screen capacitance. Possibly strands from the signal wire being displaced such that it comes very close to the screen ?