Dood

When I have taught the bass line to my students, they have often tried to figure it out by tab. The note choices are often correct but the hand positioning is often wrong or needs help. Once corrected this is a huge help. Then we start slow, observing the 16th note count and getting the note quality together. The rest after that starts to fall in to place. One of my students I taught not only how to play the bass line, but also to get the sound and then we recorded his work. I got a message from his mum later after listening to the CD asking if it really was him playing the song

If you scroll down the Hartke Facebook page there's a comparison video of the 2x10 and 1x12 cabinets. A single 4x10 does go louder than a single 12, but a pair of 12's deliver more lows than the single 4x10. Tonally the 12's have a softer mid range than the 10's but a bit of EQ will help there.

The trick to using a stereo rig in any environment is really knowing what to put in your left and right channels and whom is going to be receiving it and where best to use it. Armed with that knowledge, I'd used a full stereo bass rig for years. Not once did I ever have an engineer (worth their salt) have an issue with it and never did my 'sound' suffer.

[quote name='MarshallBTB' timestamp='1463045661' post='3048004'] So I'm guessing something like the midi mouse could do patch changes on the ms60b? [/quote] Yes, I guess so! I'm using the Kenton plugged in to a Boss FC50 Midi controller and in to my B3. I've not actually had a chance to get round to playing with my MS60B too, but I hope to do that sometime over the weekend... once I've finished typing 9000 words of gear reviews!

We did it because we had to. Now we don't. And if there's a reason not to do something, human nature and all that...

I'm thanking Cheers once again Russ!

Awesome0Sauce! Thank you! I'll have a hunt down! Thanks everyone!

A stunning instrument by a very talented Luthier indeed. One of my own 'custom' Shukers is coming up to ten years old now and is still going strong! (The other Shuker I think is coming up to 8 years old) - Over the years I had the odd 'wobble' with finances and worried that I might have to sell it, but I'm pleased to say it (and the other) have never left my side. Brilliant bass guitars, rock solid set ups and sublime playability which instruments more than double the price have trouble keeping up with.

Sorry to derail the current discussion - but I'm looking for a new set of wire strippers! Anyone suggest a particular one that is especially good for low gauge wire for example that used on pickups as well as being good for the more standard pedal hookup wire. Thank you!

Ok, so I could use two separate tuners, but out of interest, are there any electronic tuners (rack, pedal or otherwise) that have two separate inputs a which have their own separate outputs? It's fine that only one is used at a time, but I want both inputs to be kept separate and not mixed at output which appears to be the case for the units I've found so far.

If I get a mo' I'll test mine too to see what happens

Have a chat with D'Addario (You can PM Andrew directly here - I think the user name is DAddarioUK) It's possible to get a set together with the gauges available that will set you up with the G# tuning. I think a 170 gauge will probably be a good figure to start at. Further more, D'Addario offer an online service that allows you to choose your gauges depending on tension too, so you can get a really even feel across the strings. I agree with Kev too - if you are going for big low tunings (on occasion I've gone down to E) then those extra long scale length and strings designed for the job really do as Kev says, excel.

Hi, I hope I can offer an alternative viewpoint with regards to getting that punch you require. Of course I'm going to suggest the Big Twin, it's an amazing cabinet, but it doesn't have a baked in EQ hump that you may be looking for. So, wiith the right treatment I can get most cabinets to 'punch'. Ask any experienced engineer in sound where the perceived punch in live sound comes from and hopefully they'll all come up with the same answer and will use often a graphic EQ as an analogy as to where to find it. Therefore, in order to get a specific character to my sound, i will include a decent EQ. (I have a few!) For 'punch' as an example I'd probably start by boosting around 100hz with a Q of about 1 octave, maybe a bit wider. Depending on the bass cabinet, I may also roll off the deepest lows too which creates more perceived 'kick' and less energy gets wasted in cabinets that can't reproduce sub 30hz. I appreciate you are in the market fr a cabinet anyway, but for those who may have a similar quandary, this could be something to try before emptying the wallet on a new rig.

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1461142599' post='3031748'] imo I can't really see justification for a 'Mids only' pedal. You've gone to the trouble of getting a box/pedal/ connectors etc so you may as well get at least high / low shelving EQ in there as well ! The WMD Parametric looks the business. We wait to hear what you make of it... [/quote] It's not bad actually. Three bands of Parametric EQ which are pretty wide reaching and of course that all important Q control for each band as discussed above!

Think I'll crack open a fresh packet tomorrow! Yeah, highly recommended, love them - and the staff

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1462733620' post='3045324'] Is that a fan-fret? Are fans of fans called fannies? [/quote] Ha ha ha ha!!!! Yes, yes maybe!!! Oh and yeah, fan-fret bass 37"-34" B-G

In all seriousness though, on occasion I do seriously drop tune my basses and the longer scale length most definitely helps on a bass tuned down to F#.

If I'm going to be slightly facetious, then it's 37" all the way baby!!