vinorange

Allegedly what they do over there, in the land of the rising sun, is they have multiple sellers for the same item all acting as agents. Whoever secures the deal gets the commission, so some offer a deal with a higher price but free postage and others offer an all in price. Strange as over here if we see the same item listed twice on eBay we veto it. Remember the import duty too on that price. 20% vat on top plus handling fees.......

Has anyone on here had experience using kovax tolecut for flattening a finish prior to cut / polish? I was lucky enough to attend a Jon Shuker set up and maintenance course and happened to ask if Jon used traditional wet sanding and polishing on his finished only for Jon to show me this stuff. Incredibly expensive (£20 for 25 small sanding block sized sheets), it seems to last a long time but has the ability to flatten a finish using a 1500 grit paper leaving no scratches, meaning your cut and polish is so much easier (as you're only polishing, not cutting out scratches from the sanding phase). So far I'm finding it amazingly good stuff and very well behaved. It doesn't break like normal papers either meaning cutting back in the cutouts is miles easier. Very expensive but worth a punt I think.....

I do still suffer from “all knobs on full” syndrome though despite my supposed advancing years and wisdom.

To fill in some blanks, he bought the bass in 2007 believing it to be new but it looks like it is a 90s Fender USA longhorn jazz. I googled some other longhorns and they do have the same style e series serial number that isn’t on the fender website. Quite why these serial numbers arent recognised on the USA fender instrument dating website is a bit odd.

I guess I understand that now. Maybe I’ll mess about with the 90-95% pot settings to see if I can get a decent blend before going down the active blend route.

The odd thing is they’re not bad strings but as yo say, not coated. Very bright but maybe a fretboard Ester ad they’re coarse. Mine went on then came off rather quickly,

Oh is it? Thanks for the heads up. The fender website doesn’t recognise the serial number but then that’s no surprise!!!

It was the serial number that threw me first then I saw the witches hat F knobs which were on only 2 series of basses and I think they were both Japan made.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292781444634 I thought E serial numbers were Jap and then I thought they had 6 numbers after. Or is it genuine. Fender USA serial number database doesn’t recognise it.

I like the stringing.

Well I never knew that. That’s 100% fake then! I was 99% sure it was fake but thought I’d ask the experts.

I may well be on the verge of brain fog. I can feel it building up in my frontal lobes. So if I add an active blend pot then my system is now all active? I guess it must be as it’s now powered but the volume and tone controls would still function in the same way wouldn’t they? Am I convincing myself that active is best or maybe a bass with one pickup? That would solve any blend issues!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283230711842 No pic of the serial number, no receipt, lacquer on headstock looks a “non traditional” fender orange peel finish. But what do I know?

That takes discipline. I know from experience I’m not good with that. I wonder why there aren’t pots that have a detent at 90-95% to assist in compensation for a known issue. Active blend may be the best option for the ill disciplined!

Yep I think I was just after solving the blend issue rather than going full active. I’ve had John East preamps in quite a few basses and they were fantastic but then I’ve gone all old school, valvey and passive.

I was trying to keep all other controls passive but just have an active blend. Isn’t the uni pre a full modular preamp system or does modular mean you can use as ,icy or as little of the modules as you want?

Thank you. I’ll have a look around. I thought active blend was the only way but have never tried one in an all passive set up.

Recently I’ve been thinking how disappointed I am with fender volume, volume, tone controls and the way that the volume dies so much when both pickups are on full. I realise this is due to the additional resistance of the other pickup’s circuit acting to resist and therefore reduce the output but I wondered is there a way around it. I had wondered about passive blend control but apparently the same thing happens at the centre detention of the blend control I.e. volume roll off. I had wondered therefore whether to use an active blend control. I think EMG do one but I can’t find out whether that can be used with passive volume and tone pots. I also don’t really want to go full active preamp as I’ve suddenly realised that amps are better at eq than most preamps. So my question is what am I to do to have equal volume whether on bridge, mixed or neck pickup? The bass in question is an 80s MIJ Fender Jazz but it happens with all my Fenders. Just asking!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173607080849 Its not even in good nick. It’s our German friend though.......

It appears that these strings have been bought in bulk by people and are being passed off as real elixir strings on eBay AND some buyers are stating they’re fakes. I haven’t got any real elixirs yet but they must be fakes (£9 doesn’t get real ones and defo not from China) although bizarrely they were decent strings, very bright. Probably not elixirs though. As it happens I was going to buy some real ones but ironically I now can’t decide where to get them in case they’re Chinese fakes!! “Wish” I’d never looked into them now as I’ve put myself off getting any......

Gee thanks.

Apparently it started out life as a Westfield corvette bass.........

The front looks ok. The back is another story.............

A good point well made. It just amused me that the bass referenced as fitting in it, didn't.