ped

Oh I’m not sure - just the WL20 for guitar/bass. As in not the L version (is that what you’re referring to as full range?) I’ll be using it with a passive bass 99% of the time so thought that was best.

I have just bought a used Boss WL20 set so I'll give the a go. Generally love Boss/Roland gear so let's see.

Here's mine, I think black pole pieces on a white pickup would look pretty cool and subtle.

Give the seller a call and have a chat, or do a Zoom. Then pay with Paypal (not Friends and Family) if you're still unsure.

No amp for home use. I go bass into backbeat G2, into pedalboard then into VB99 which is linked to computer and a TecAmp bassboard, then take headphones out of the VB99. Sounds and feels amazing, better than using an amp and bang on my studio sound with all the feel of a rig behind me. I don’t really consider it a ‘practice’ setup because before I was in my current band and even now I do most of my playing at home along with tracks. It’s my go-to setup for most of my playing as opposed to a compromise over my live setup.

You normally just put the price or trade value 👍🏼

None have the battery life if the Boss WL20 though

What about the WS70? Has lower latency <3ms and looks pretty cool

I had an '83 Stringray which was YOB. That's not why I bought it though, and honestly it didn't matter to me much - kind of a nice coincidence but it's hardly relevant that it happened to be screwed together on the other side of the world the same year I burst onto the scene.

I use the 50t and 2x10 for practice and think it sounds great 👍🏼

I think it was tightened all the way but not doing enough work, so with a nut added and more tightening it’s now engaging and flattening the neck, so the bullet is sunk in because now it tightens more than before. Seems logical and fine to me, if everything now seems stable and flat I’d be more than happy. I’ve had bullet truss rods where nearly the whole bullet is hidden (I like super flat necks) and never thought twice about it, although I always quite liked the look of being able to see more of the bullet itself. I’m always wary when buying any instrument because I know deep down that it’s normally going to need some adjustment to suit me, and I never know whether the bass will support said adjustments well enough until you’ve had it for a few days. As a result a honeymoon period is often spoilt and the real fun begins when you find that yes the action does go low enough and yes the frets are level and there’s no ski jump.

Boring update from me (at least my wife struggled to feign interest). I got some longer screws for my bridge so I can intonate properly without the saddle being partially beyond the length of the screw. This necessitated a lot of research into the correct type, for which Fender were quite helpful but beaten to the punch by someone on Talkbass. If you look at most vintage mustangs you’ll see that the screws are not long enough to offer much adjustment, particularly in the D and G strings. Perhaps this is why the bridge is a tad further forward on reissues, who knows. Anyway the correct screws are Phillips UNC 6-32 2-1/2inch (or 2 inch for E and A). Exciting 😜

Hopefully a future update will allow us to force play this whenever a member has the tab open

I’ve never really bonded with 5s. I’m so used to playing 4 strings tuned in drop D that it feels off - for as long as I can remember my octave shapes in the bottom string have been altered accordingly. I’ve had loads though despite this, from Ken Smith, Vigier, Alembic, OLP, Carvin

I think they are one of the reasons that Fender/G&L/Musicman stopped using the micro tilt mechanism. There are loads of examples out there. It takes a long time to happen so add a shim now and you may never live to see it cause an issue.

This is why I think filing down the bridge saddle grooves is the best option, depending on how much rom you need of course. Saddles are cheap, it's easy to do, gives you more adjustability and avoids any possibility of a ski jump. I've done it on a few instruments, and of course on neck thru basses it's the only choice anyway.

This is a new one (to me at least) Duesenberg Kavalier, 30.5" scale About £2k though but the Triton bass they make is pretty cool sounding. Not 100% sold on the Art Deco style but I like the body shape. https://reverb.com/uk/item/80823023-duesenberg-kavalier-bass-narvik-blue

File down the saddle grooves with abrasive cord 👍🏼

There's definitely something special about the originals isn't there! All of my pedals are massive so I nearly got the Aclam board which seems like a neat solution, if the clamps can take the weight of the muff. You don't want it falling off because it might kill someone!

Let us know how you get on. The one I had was pretty clean and even had the rubber feet and battery door so I was also worried about pulling the paint off. It never made it to my board but always wanted one to compare other pedals against, as the tall font is such a classic. If you’re tempted to use something else for convenience and to avoid worry ‘out and about’ you might like to try the Sovtek Deluxe Muff, which in standard mode sounded almost identical to my tall font (though I know they can vary a bit). Also the Valco KGB fuzz matches the sound exactly and has a lot of other sounds within it too. I sold my tall font because the KGB was so spot on. In particular one of the modes flattens out the mid scoop quality of the muff so it works much better live. At least for my setup.

OK. Yeah a bit tricky. First of all I'd recommend that you use a 9v battery snap to power it so that once it's on your board you don't need to take it off. Two options spring to mind, depending on the tolerances of your particular unit. You could take off the green front cover and run a cable tie vertically up the case so that it's hidden with the cover on, and secure that to the board. Shown in blue here: Or take off the inside cover and do the same across the base plate: Other than that, you could use an Aclam pedalboard which secures pedals with little clamps, which could be quite a nice way around it.

Is it a V7 with the six screw folded sheet metal box and metal battery door or the type in the ridged box?

Rehearsed for an upcoming gig but sans keyboard as his son has been in hospital in Brisbane so he’s flown out to be with him. I’m not sure he’ll be back in time for the gig and half of us aren’t up for doing the show without keys because it’s quite important for our sound and ties many of the songs together. it’s quite a small room and I couldn’t hear myself so well this time because I moved nearer the monitors which were carrying one of the guitars because the lockup where he keeps his gear was inaccessible last night. Luckily he had his pedalboard and a guitar handy but all in all it felt a bit of a bodge and I’m not sure what’ll happen next week - best case scenario the keys player is back the day before the gig, so no full rehearsal either way. Bit of a tricky one because we don’t want him to feel bad or feel like he has to rush back.

Sounds like a Game Boy