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If you like the sound of the 4x10 & want more of the same then I would add an identicle 4x10 as the 15 wouldn't put out as much volume & could cancel out some frequencies of the 4x10 (might be a good thing, but it's unpredictable). Like Lozz says, 4x10s are heavy beasts!

A couple of years ago I was in the market for a compressor after using an EHX White Finger on one of our songs in the studio. The song was played with a pick & the bassline didn't have any real dynamics in it, just a nice gritty rock sound. I then tried quite a few compressors & found that other than for a few songs, I couldn't get one that wouldn't flatten out my dynamics (it makes the quiet bits louder & the loud bits quieter, no good for me) & it also increased the background noise floor if put after my fx (didn't want to put it before my filter as every note would be the same if I use the envelope follower!). I really wanted a compressor sustainer too so I could get big long notes that could evolve in tone. I've never tried the TE tho & those who use comps say they are good.

[quote name='phil.i.stein' post='1132894' date='Feb 18 2011, 11:13 PM']thoughts.. i want to hear them there results.. si[/quote] Same here. Wouldn't mind knowing more of the M9 & M13 myself as they've recently been brought to my attention.

You don't really need to worry too much about the wattage of the cabs, but don't go for some silly wee 50 watt things. Even if you're just gonna get 1 cab just now, I would opt for an 8 ohm cab as the difference the extra 150 watts going into a single 4 ohm makes will hardly be noticed & could be better utilised at a later date with the 2nd cab.

The Hartke LH amps get quite a few praises on here. I've never used one tho so can't comment on it. As for cabs, I'd go with a decent 2x10, 2x12 or 1x15 & then at a later date you can add another of the same if needed. I've played quite a few loud gigs without me going thru the PA & had plenty of headroom with just the 2x10, & if your budget can stretch then there's a Markbass combo the same as I have for £650 in the "Amps for sale" section. I'm wanting to add an extra 2x10 to mine but it would just be an image thing rather than needing more headroom, but then it depends on the size of the gig. Best advice is to go & try a few different cabs & things out to see what you like. There's also TC Electronics' new BH500 & BC cabs that should be in your budget. Never been a fan of Peavey's bass gear, but I like GK stuff (what I've heard so far anyway).

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1130647' date='Feb 17 2011, 09:48 AM']Oh my....what a thought! [/quote] " Don't think about it, just do it. Live it! That'll be £300." As a life coach would say.

What about a 2nd AD200b & 4 SP212s? Stack 2 each side & have a stereo signal going to them.

I'm using TI Jazz Flats in my fretted Ibby. Posted this before, but here's my embarrassing mush slapping them! Bass was plugged into amp sitting next to computer table & picked up with the mac's mic. Stringbusters for your strings.

If I sang my basslines & played along, they'd all be just the one note & out of tune! My singer plays & sings melodies/solos & I admire him for being able to do that (in a non gay way of course).

Oi! The forum is Bassists Wanted/Available. Your ad should either read: Bassist available, complete with band - 1 guitarist. Or: Bassist wanted. Must be able to play guitar to a high standard (better than you play bass).

So how much are you selling it for then

That's my prob with the Bassclef YTS. Mouse isn't fast enough Here's a thought, why when they're talking about rhythm do they always use A on the treble clef?

First Bass Owned: Vox Standard 'Go To' Bass: Ibanez SR-1000 'Your' Bass: Ibanez SR-1000 I think those answers are in my sig

Reading music isn't anywhere near as hard as what most folk seem to think. A good teacher, like Doddy says, will help. Try getting a manuscript, music book (such as any band score book or bass score for any album) or a bass mag with score in it as these usually give you a section dedicated to what the notes on the scale are & what the time length of written notes & rests are along with other details on how to read. these come in handy for the time before you get a teacher organised & also a handy quick reference to reading. Heres a handy link called [url="http://readsheetmusic.info/readingmusic.shtml"]Read Sheet Music.[/url]

+1 to checking where the filters are set to. The VPF in particular scoops out mids so you might want to set this in the 8 o'clock position (turn it anticlockwise as far as you can without snapping the thing!). And like everyone else says, if your band is playing in your space then you'll find it hard to cut thru.

Rather than going for a 4x10, I'd look to trying out some 2x10s, 2x12s or 1x15s. More flexibility & 2 cabs stacked vertically will give you a better monitor & better dispersion. You should get a decent s/h rig for less than £1k.

I started on a few other instruments before getting a bass. When I was about 12 or 13 me & my best friend talked about starting a band & I was already playing keys & not long gotten a guitar that I only played basslines on so I decided to take up bass & he took up guitar. We've never played in a band together yet!

BigRoom is an acoustic band (as such) & I use my Ibby plugged into all my fx (& actually use em) & then into my 2x10 combo. The venues we do have a decent sized stage, giving us all room to play. The others in the band are vocal/guitar/banjo, mandolin/ukulele/whistles/percussion & a drummer/percussion/keys. I fancy getting a fretless but that's just so I can make weirder bass sounds. I would try to avoid the typical 80s sound.

And Aye, JOIN A BAND!

A lot of good suggestions & advice. My idea for you would be to play something on your piano & take that melody & play it on your bass. If you don't want it the same, then harmonise with it. A lot of my basslines are either something I came up with on a different instrument or are me just harmonising with another instrument (or playing the same thing). Whenever I'm not doing this, I'm playing boring old root notes etc.

A filter pedal (such as the moog LPF with an exp pedal) would allow you to have the full sound of the bass coming thru & then you can adjust the cutoff with the pedal to bring it to a dubby bass with no top end. Or the other thing I can think of is a PJ bass, rolling from J p/u to P p/u for the sound you want (tho this means you either have to stop playing or just play open strings whilst you change sound, unless you make an extension for an expression pedal to pan between p/us).

Cheers guys, I've had a look at the ball ends & they seem fine. It's strung with a fairly young set of TI Jazz flats. Good point about giving any screws a loosen then tighten, I'll try it. It's still there if I dampen the other strings. Never thought about adjusting the truss rod as I checked for fret buzz first & it's not that. I'll try that next. My bridge doesn't have any springs on it, there's locking screws that you tighten once all adjustments have been made. The sound does seem to come from the body area but it could be anywhere between the bridge & neck. I'll try the PU covers too incase it's them rattling from the vibration.

That's true. It was on the off that someone had something similar in the past. I've tightened everything up that a screwdriver or allen key will fit, from the strap button to the last screw in the machine heads, some things wouldn't turn at all & others moved just a ball hair & it seems to have reduced it dramatically I wish I'd just tried one thing at a time & played a string so I knew what the change was.

That would be a tricky song to play with pick & if I was to play like that the pattern would be down on the 8th & then down up on the 16ths. I'd rather play it with my fingers like in the video above.