xgsjx

[quote name='thinman' post='1159520' date='Mar 12 2011, 04:44 PM']I've never seen the point in having a big enough rig just to enter into a pi55ing contest with the guitarist - if they're that loud then they probably need to turn down. Also, think about the kick drum. In my experience they quickly get lost and the whole band sound starts to get out of balance. You're then into the territory of needing a PA that can take kick drum too.[/quote] Say's him with a bunch of BFM self builds that's probably able to shift enough air to move the guitarist & his rig off stage!

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='1158921' date='Mar 12 2011, 07:01 AM']Or an MP-201... LFO heaven [/quote] Don't. I'll start looking & then want! There's a few things I'm wanting already & so far have saved up about £3.27 in coppers. I might settle for a 2nd exp pedal that I can use on the Murf.

The MF-105b has a LFO across the filters. I plan on making a pot with a jack on it so I can control it (basically a dial version of the exp pedal). In the video I've put in the "I want a new toy" thread, near the end I've plugged the EP-2 into the LFO amount to show what this does. I meant to take the TRS cable out from the env out on the 101 & into the LFO rate on the 105, it makes the LFO start fast & slow down as the note dies & can have some random effects, depending on what you're playing (that's an excuse to make another video ). Really, I should have just bought a Minimoog & put my bass thru that!

Had a bit of spare time to play with my pedals & had said that I'd post a video of the Bass MuRF in another thread, so once that was done, I thought I'd make another using my pedal board to make some Dubtastic scary sounds. I do want an octaver & plan on doing some splitting & merging of signals in the future (as soon as I can start saving pennies again!).

I managed to make some time this afternoon to make a couple of videos. So here's one just of the Bass MuRF. It is a unique pedal & some folk will find it about as useful as herpies, others will find loads of uses for it. If you're interested, I'm popping a video in the DnB/Dubstep thread with it used along with some other pedals.

I've made a demo of the Bass MuRF to try & show some of what it does. Edit: at 10:20 ish a cat attacks me just off camera! & here's some solo DnB/Dubstep sounds that I'm planning on making good use of. Once I get a 2 channel mixer & an octave pedal, that should be me almost sorted for the sound I want (tho I doubt I'll be keeping the PSK distortion on the board unless I make some mods to it). Sorry about the videos being so long.

Embarrassing! I now go to play what I thought sounded good & find my playing is embarrassing compared to the stuff you do. I need a good teacher! Nice work btw.

[quote name='4 Strings' post='1157346' date='Mar 10 2011, 10:28 PM']Well, I'm hurt now. I actually have an 1x18 in my rig like this one: [url="http://www.musiciansnews.com/ha/hartke/hartke_pro_1800_new_pro_series_bass_cabinet_speakers.shtml"]http://www.musiciansnews.com/ha/hartke/har..._speakers.shtml[/url] Only a 2 x 10 to go with it. I look forward to opportunities to use it, only had two so far.[/quote] The 2x12 has a bigger frequency range & goes down just 1hz less than the 18 (according to the Hartke specs anyway). Also, you'd need an amp that's ok with a 2 ohm load to add the 2x10, as that 18 is 4ohm.

You put a couple of layers of insulation tape either side of the fret to be pulled (to protect the neck), heat up the fret with the soldering iron (just until it's hot enough to put a groove in your finger) & then gently go from one end to the other with the pincers, slowly easing it up (applying more heat if needed). Took me about 15-20 mins to pull 24 frets out. Filled the neck with some filler & haven't had a chance to do owt else!

YouTube it. Pincers, insulation tape & a sodering iron are all that's needed to take them out. I'd link the vid, but can't at work.

Wood filler.

[quote name='crez5150' post='1156222' date='Mar 10 2011, 08:40 AM']It'll be interesting to see if any manufacturers take advantage of the new Thunderbolt port on the new Macbooks..... Claim it's 10Gbps..... which is quite an advancement over Firewire 800 and USB 2.0[/quote] I hope they do. Can't see why they wouldn't take advantage there.

I wanted an iPad, but the Mrs wanted a laptop so she could run powerpoint stuff from it (2 months & she's never opened powerpoint yet). You do see a lot of f4nnies with them tho, so much so that it's been renamed the "Fan iPad". Back to the OP. I think the simplest (& maybe even the cheapest from what you was saying) way you're gonna get what you're after, is to go down the Mac route as they come with firewire (apart from the Air). I have Reaper on both Mac & PC & they're just about identical. I like the Mac because it's a lot less prone to crashing or getting a virus. If you're keeping on the PC route then I'd look to be upgrading from Vista to either XP or W7 (I know XP is older than Vista, but it's a lot less buggy. Vista is like the ME of the '00s). You don't have to use firewire to connect. USB will usually do a decent enough job.

35 views & you still haven't got one. Nice bit of playing there. Your "dead" strings almost sound like flats & I prefer the sound to zingy (horses for courses I suppose). Keep it up.

Monkothehill is selling his MB 2x10 combo for £650 in the For Sale section. I can vouch that they're superb combos (probably one of the best I've tried, hence own one) & if you didn't like it, you could always sell it on for the same money. Ridiculously loud for a 2x10.

If you're happy to go 2nd hand, then there's a few markbass heads in the For Sale section on here for @ £400 & then you can get a decent cab for @ £3-400.

Got a price for one of these yet? I couldn't find anything via Google.

[quote name='Blademan_98' post='1155930' date='Mar 9 2011, 09:57 PM']The extension cab issue is also one I would like to clear up! Why is a 1 x 15 standard to add to the rig? A 2 x 12 with a 4 x 10 would make sense (not that I think I will need it!). I am thinking about a Trace Elliot head and 4 x 10 cab. BUT I really would like to go down the Orange root [/quote] The 1x15 + 4x10 is merely a marketing ploy. 2 1x15s or 2 4x10s would be a better option. I'd chose 2 2X10s or 2 2x12s stacked vertical myself.

Watts doesn't really mean that much. It's all about how much air you're able to move. A decent 1x15" or 2x10"/12" cab/combo with almost any decent amp from 100-1000 watts will do what you're needing.

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='1154221' date='Mar 8 2011, 06:28 PM']Nearly have enough money saved for the LPF and with my birthday maybe ill have enough money to replace my octobass which i dont really like. Any suggestions for a nice octave pedal, maybe an oc-2, seems to be very popular with the Dub bassist.[/quote] I'll keep an eye on this (as I have been with other posts) to see what octavers get the thumbs up. I don't have an octave pedal at present, but is next on my list. You should save for an expression pedal to go with the LPF to give you more control. Most are universal I believe. Shep, when's the tracks gonna be ready? Looking forward to hearing it.

Saying you wanna learn folk music is a bit like saying you wanna learn rock music. There's countless sub genres. A good place to start would be [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=124763"]this place.[/url] You get Celtic, Traditional Scottish/English/Welsh/Irish, Alt Dot, Americana, Dixie & countless others. & then you get blends of them. & then you get blends of one sort of folk with something else like hiphop or rock. All good fun.

I know that I never notice the fan making any noise. Take it back to where you bought it or give Proel a wee email & see about getting it fixed.

I can't say I've noticed. I'll check it out later today (gives me an excuse to have a play )

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='1150182' date='Mar 5 2011, 12:56 AM']When was this? I bought some a few years ago and had the problem that the sleeve would jam in the 'on' position. E-mailed Neutrik to complained and they free sent me samples of the revised design, which had just come in. I've since had no problems with the straight connectors (the 'new' design has the rubber cover), and far fewer problems (but still some) with the right angle connector (no obvious visible difference from the old one). They seem to have made the sleeve a looser fit on the shaft (Ooer missus) and made the springs a bit softer. The main problem with the right angle one seems to be that the shaft assembly is just push fit into the main housing, and it can move (if you wrench the cable while its in the socket, or stand on the plug etc). With the right soldering iron you can run some solder round the join which seems to help. Overall I think that they're a good bit of kit. Edited top add: However they don't work always work well with some active basses (others seem OK) - if you plug them in quickly the connection is made while the electronics is still powering up and you can still get a bit of a thump. Plugging it in up to the sleeve, waiting a second and then pushing it all the way generally works, but the bloke whose borrowed your amp/lead it wont know that![/quote] When I was typing that about my issue with the Neutrik plug I could vaguely recall reading your very post but wasn't totally sure if it was the Neutrik ones or not. It was probably about 3-6 months before then, I think @ 3 years ago. After reading your post back then, I was tempted to get in touch, but I had already lopped it off the wire & put an ordinary 1/4 jack on & my cats was just kittens & had popped some needle like teeth through part of the wire, thus making me cut 6' off it (salvaged a short bit of that too to make a TRS lead for CV), so I didn't think they'd accept it back & just went & bought a standard (braided) cable. One of the joys of having money to spare that I miss