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That rules that one out then. I think it's gonna be a process of elimination. Are you using it just Bass > Blowtorch > Amp or is there anything else in the line (such as bypassed fx)?

Could it have anything to do with the cable from the bass to the pedal (or the socket on the bass)? Might be the + & - are getting swapped somewhere, though I'm not sure if this would be an issue. Other thing I can suggest is backing the vol off a little on the bass & see if that changes things.

Speaker size has little to do with the amount of bass it can produce, that's the cab's job. 10" drivers give a better dispersion than 15".

Looks like a good buy & you can add another cab if you need to for gigs. One thing that seems to be a bit misleading is "[i]2 parallel speaker outputs - to use with 2x 8 ohms bass cabinets or 1x 4 ohms bass cabinet[/i]". I believe this would only be the case if you are to disconnect the internal speaker (which is probably 8Ω) as I don't think the amp will run at 2Ω. So when you are adding a cab, do check in the manual what it will take to save overheating.

Have a look in the for sale section on here. Ibanez have a great range of sounds & excellent value for money.

Get "Easy to build" sheds & plenty of powertools.

I think it's just a jam that some sesh musicians was having. Pretty funky, but not a scoob what it could be.

I've always been a 4 string player, but I do venture up the neck quite a lot & 2 of our songs I actually play the top G (24th fret on G). I also use an octaver & recently found myself using notes below what the open E would be (mainly C & D) so I think a 6 string would be to my advantage. It would allow me to get the higher notes with less movement & also to play those lower notes on songs that I don't want the bass to sound synth like. My band is a "folk"' band (the word "folk" being used verrrry loosely!) with a singer/guitarist & a mandolinist/whistle player, so I'll play a lot of melodies on parts that don't warrant a bassline.

Ahh, I see. So your a musician, not just a guitarist?

A guitarist? But....... Basschat? Welcome to the show!

I'll make the shortlist short. [b]Ibanez SR-1000E '90[/b] My only working bass. Bought it new & started out as a metallic black instrument. Llast summer I stripped it to the wood & gave it an oil & wax. Recently changed it from active electronics to passive (simple volume, pick up blend & tone). Strung with TI Jazz flats. Undergoing some slight mods. Positives: Great sound from it. The neck pick up can get a great P tone & the bridge gets that burpy Jazz tone. Slim neck that's easy to move around on. Ergonomic & light body. Reliable. Negatives: if I hold a Bm at the 7th fret, it buzzes. Even if I just hold the E & G strings at the 7th fret & play a note on either, it buzzes! Change a fret & it's fine (audience don't hear it though). Bridge broke, so now have an old fender style bridge off of my Vox bass on it. I've tried quite a few other basses in my time, but never played anything that I thought could replace the Ibby. Though I'm gassing for a fretless 5/6 string.

It's fitting it that would be the tricky bit. The pot would probably be sideways in the body & have a spindle on it. The "arm" would then need some sort of pinion with a spring & a cord to go round the spindle (working in a similar way to an expression pedal). I was thinking of getting hold of a guitar controller off the "rock band" game to see how it works & if I could make something similar. Whether I actually ever do that is another thing all together!

Cheers. I'm still trying to work out how I can make something similar to a whammy bar but rather than being connected to the bridge, connected to another pot. Don't know if it is possible though.

I had early on decided to keep the recess black & a good job too. It's made of black plastic! I didn't have to retouch it other than sand the black paint off of it & then I rubbed Danish oil into it when I was doing the body. Even on close inspection, you wouldn't know that it was a moulded lump of plastic (or it could be carved out of ebony ). I've been messing about with the bass a bit more & when I complete my project, I'll post some more pics here.

[url="http://www.spider-engineering.co.uk/music/index.asp?groupID=2400"]Flightcase Warehouse.[/url]

I'd try it without the interface first & if the latency is bad, then go for one. The latency on my Alesis is the same as going direct into the back of the mac, though the interface can have other advantages (such as recording your band).

[quote name='FlatEric' timestamp='1335786630' post='1635916'] So, is there a way of plugging the[b] bass into the mic socket and playing along to youtube, listening on the laptop headphone socket[/b] - in other words, not using the Tascam?? [/quote] Do that! You need a lead that's got a mono 1/4 jack on one end (for plugging into bass or end of fx chain) & a stereo 3.5 jack on the other end with just tip & shield connected (don't connect anything to the ring) & that's it. It's what I do to record on my mac. Better results than going through the Alesis usb mixer!

Still awaiting my perspex to make an Al Bling base. Hoping it arrives today. I have though, made some mods & added some Boss/Moog style knobs. Having turned my Ibby into a passive bass with volume, tone & pick up blend knobs, I had a spare hole & thought I'd put it to use. I've put a 100k pot where the EQ switch was & wired it to a stereo jack socket (which is where the audio jack was on the bass) & put a mono socket on the backplate for the audio. Now I can control a moog parameter from the bass. Playing about with LFO rate & Envelope slope on the Bass Murf, & Envelope amount on the LPF. Pics to follow when I get the bling.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1335769055' post='1635531'] is this true? So would this mean that the famous 4x10 cabinet is not as great as it could be? [/quote] I'm afraid so. Probably one of the biggest reasons why 2 2x10s stacked vertically are recommended over the trad 4x10. If you stand in front of your 4x10 when you're playing with your band (not close up to it, maybe 10'-20' away) & then walk off axis, you'll most likely notice a drop in volume.

I'd play it. It's 4 chords, mess about with the bassline & make your own version of the song.

If you're looking to self build, then have a look at Bill Fitzmaurice's website (there was a couple of empty cabs in the for sale on here, but they might be gone). Here's his webby... http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/ If you're buying cabs, then Barefaced allow you to try for 30 days & get a refund if you ain't happy. Highly recommended cabs on here. The old adage that 10"s give punch & 15"s give bass is marketing rubbish. if you look at the frequency response for just about any decent 2x10 and 1x15 cab, they'll probably say 40hz - 20khz. 10"s give a better dispersion than 15"s (unless you put the 10"s horizontally & then the soundwaves fight one another). Mixing speaker sizes can give you unpredictable results from venue to venue such as cuts or boosts in different frequencies.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1335722483' post='1635035'] [/quote] Might be balls out, but not a proper rock band without a bassist & a drummer!!! Big respect to you though Jack for helping a fellow BCer out like that.

If you're talking about the FX loop on an amp, it can vary from amp to amp. Some bypass the amp's pre, some have a blend of dry in with it & so on. Most folk don't use the loop as it means an extra 2 cables from the pedal board & also often quite pointless. The only time it seems to be used is sometimes for rack fx (usually mounted in a 19" rack with the head). If you're talking about an effects loop pedal, then that's a different kettle of fish. It's for when you have a set amount of pedals that you use together as 1 effect &want to turn them on & off all at once. Rather than doing a fast bit of tap dancing, you put whatever fx you want into the loop & just press one button to engage them.