Grissle

I believe most all the Ampeg combos share very, very similar if not the same basic preamp. From a little ba108 to a ba600 I've played the preamp circuits sounded close to identical, including a b100r.

This started life as an '01 MIM fretless, all that's left is the neck, but oh what a neck! [IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss360/Grissle209/DSCN2202.jpg[/IMG]

Just finished building this new board. [IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss360/Grissle209/DSCN2205.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1372972635' post='2132433'] I know Leland Sklar uses Banjo ones. I think they make his slides sound smoother? Not sure how that works but that's what I heard. Less resistance I assume? [/quote] Actually they're Mandolin frets, and they're very small and give almost a fretless feel and require very little finger pressure to fret.

Fender '62 Originals, SD Spb-1 or Dimarzio model P are all very solid vintage sounding choices, really almost identical.

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1370509853' post='2101904'] Does anyone currently have a stack knob jazz? How does it compare to the standard for tonal variation? [/quote] Depends on how it's wired. You can do it like a standard 2vol. 2tone or like the originals with the resisters and all. Mine is the original style wiring and its very different. It sounds the same with all controls full on. But the tone controls seem to reduce the highs and lows and are overall more subtle than a standard tone control. They kind of tighten things up. [IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss360/Grissle209/DSCN2201.jpg[/IMG]

You could just have a machine shop do the tapping bit and do everything else yourself.

Heat gun and scraper are your friends here.

Only one jack has to be used on the amp so that it sees a load.

I think of Overdrive as emulating power tubes being pushed hard. Distortion when both the preamp and power tubes are being pushed.

Sounds like the BEAD solution would be the best compromise.

I just got the title reference! Man I haven't seen that old Thunderbird movie in ages and ages! BTW I do have a Fenderbird, [IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss360/Grissle209/492110E2-746E-4F22-86A0-EF95ADA8281C-8338-000001C169248D75.jpg[/IMG]

In and out of the pub not a problem do to the wheels and handle (except for stairs), but in and out of a car can get old.

Just starting to get into mine after having it for a few years. It's loads better than I realized. For instance It does a better B-15 than my VT Bass and that's saying a lot!

Look for 1/4" shaft knobs

Gotoh Res-O-Lites, best cure for neck dive! They take about half a pound off the headstock.

This is my P w/flats+Bass Pod FlipTop setting and it gets really close http://soundcloud.com/grissle-1/p-pod-b15/s-UJfT4

^ Yes, you'll probably need either 2x12s at least or 2x15s to match what the 4x10 is giving you. So either a 2x12 combo or a head and 1 or 2 cabs equalling 4 ohms.

Bass Direct is the UK Nordstrand dealer Also this pre is very neutral sounding when the knobs/wheels are centered, minimal coloration.

Great heads! But the Iso cabs I don't get on with

Here's the one I used: http://www.bestbassgear.com/nordstrand-2-band-preamp.htm The blend I did was just the choice I made, it can be wired anyway you want.

What I did was change my master vol/tone to stacked vol/tone and blend. And replaced the preamp with a Nordstrand 2 band. The bass really sings now. I also changed to Fender CS pickups.

Can't go wrong with an Ampeg 810 if warm full midrange is what you're after.

I think you use Viagra for that...

[quote name='RandomBass' timestamp='1368092315' post='2073008'] I love that variable rear port design. [/quote] "Variable Rear Port Design"!!! $2,222!!