Grissle

I'm curious about these too

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1386831701' post='2305029'] could be: 1. Pickups too close to strings 2. string broken inside. 3. something wrong with the nut or bridge. 4. intonation is out. [/quote] I'll add twisted string to this list

Ya I have to admit there good, okay really good. I'm really picky and was bent on finding some fault in them but couldn't. Now if recording I might (might) change them? But I wouldn't need to. Never had the fraying problem but I'm pretty careful when installing them. Cheers

If you're just wanting to plug in and go, people have been doing this for 30 years. All you need is a nice DI box. The REDDI is magic in a box. There's also the Avalon U5 and Radial units to name a few.

Here ya go: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CTVRW

My son has a 90s Korean Fender squire series that looks to be ply. It's light and is crazy resonant. Unplugged its really loud and with the Fralin split jazz set we got him last Christmas its a pretty sweet bass.

Been working on Guitars/Basses for over 30 years and no this is not a common problem. On fact I've never encounterd it, stripped screw holes yes but not just working loose. If the holes are in good shape I'd suggest some medium thread locker.

Have you tried at least tightening the speakers mounting screws?

Ive narrowed my jazz necks to a little over 1 3/8 nut width and I'm mad at myself for not doing this 30 yrs ago! Every aspect of my playing experience is better now. Seriously, I was tempted to do this a long time ago but chickened out! I believe Sadowsky does a 1.45 nut if requested so I'm not totally nuts, mines at 1.43

And/or how hot is the signal going into the VT?

The things that always floored me as a designer are Fenders Scratchplate designs. The shape within a shape harmony is just brilliant! Genius!

https://m.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/ampeg-v-4b-all-tube-100w-classic-bass-amp-head?CJAID=10684459&CJPID=4012882&source=3ACJWXX2 100W of all-tube Ampeg bass tone o Preamp: Tube ( 2 x 12AX7) o Driver: Tube (1 x 12AX7, 1 x 12AU7) o Power amp: Tube (4 x 6L6GC) • Classic V-4B fit and finish o Ampeg “Black Line” cosmetics o Vintage rocker switch controls o Integrated chassis suspension system • 3-band EQ (bass, midrange, treble) • 3-position mid-range control • Ultra Hi/Lo boost • Speaker outputs: 1 x 8 ohm, 2 x 4 ohm, 2 x 2 ohm • Balanced direct out w/ ground lift • Power amp in / preamp out • -15 dB input • Slave output to connect additional amplifiers • Dimensions (W x H x D inches): 24 x 11 x 11 • Handling weight: 41 lbs https://m.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/ampeg-svt-212av-600w-2x12-bass-speaker-cabinet?CJAID=10684459&CJPID=4012882&source= SVT-212AV The Ampeg SVT-212AV bass enclosure delivers pure Ampeg tone in a ported cabinet design that bridges the gap between the fast transient response you want and the rich low end you deserve. The SVT-212AV features 2x12″ custom Eminence® LF drivers and a 1″ compression driver with 3-way level control in a rugged cab with vintage Ampeg styling. Rated to handle 600W RMS at 4ohms, the SVT-212AV is an ideal match for the Ampeg V-4B bass head. Plus, with an optional classic black grille cloth available, it’s the perfect

For effects only maybe a Line6 M5 or M9 http://line6.com/m5/ For effects & amp models maybe a Zoom ms-60b http://www.zoom.co.jp/products/ms-60b/ If you want even more amp modeling as well, an older Line6 BassPod really can't be beat IMO

[quote name='pobrien_ie' timestamp='1374921835' post='2154791'] My Precisions... [IMG]http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/pobrien_ie/Misc/2013-07-27113710-1_zps6a058e3a.jpg[/IMG] [/quote] I wouldn't mind having a nice big print of these! Lovely!

For those of us/you who have this problem this may be the solution. I know A couple years back my solution was a Badass II bridge, but this maintains a more traditional look and looks like it might still work with bridge covers. Hope this helps someone. [url]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Bass_bridges/Montreux_Step_Bass_Bridge.html?tab=Pictures[/url] [IMG]http://www.stewmac.com/product_images/1lg/0086/Montreux_Step_Bass_Bridge_sm.jpg[/IMG]

Cool ideas thanks

Ok that's one down😆, anyone else?

New one: [IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss360/Grissle209/null-2.jpg[/IMG] Here's the old one: [IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss360/Grissle209/DSCN2143.jpg[/IMG]

You know my grandmother was British and helped raise us here in the US and I still had to look up the term "Busking". That's a new one for me😆

Try here: http://www.thomann.de/gb/cordial_ctl_5_fl25gr.htm

"Blanket" statements are not always accurate. The new'ish Elixir Stainless Nanowebs are as bright and piano-like as broken-in RS66 Stainless.

The Roto's are magic on my fretless J

Was going to add that you might need to add a 6" mid driver if you need any high mids. This is also a good candidate for a 3 way setup!

Fender has used different screws over the years so finding something identical can be hit and miss. Easiest solution is to replace all five if you want them to match. You can tighten up the holes with a bit of tooth pick and wood glue.

Great low end but start rolling off around 1.5k so you may need a mid driver. Check this site for specs: http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/2225hj.pdf And here for cab dimension and ports: http://www.jblpro.com/BackOffice/ProductAttachments/enclgde.pdf