Chienmortbb

If you choose ta handle that requires a cut-out, you will need to brace around the cut-out. I have fitted the Adam Hall round handle http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=ADH34062&browsemode=manufacturer I had to remove a large part of the top panel and some bracing.

Cabs side by side?

The problem is we have spent may hours and hours discussing this issue and while I agree it is unsatisfactory, it is clearly not indicative of the quality of Barefaced in general. It seems to me that there has been more noise about this than the awful problems Ampeg had with the PF500. That affected hundreds, maybe thousands worldwide. The solution is easy, Barefaced sort this problem and then let it rest.

I put a precision pickup away without noting which part was on top. Does that matter and would that explain why it buzzes when I touch the poles now it is reinstalled.?

Actually the British standard is A = Linear B = Log but of course the Colonials had to be different and their standard is the other way round. As they influenced all the rest of the world most pots are A = Log or as they call it Audio taper.

There’s are many that derive pleasure from having exotic brands that cannot except the some great products are made locally. The technically savvy on here,l think that Alex sometimes confuses engineering/science with marketing. Not unusual in this industry but if you put something in the public domain, you have to be able to back it up. In Alex’s defence there are others on here the other place that are far worse in that Barefaced cabs compare favourably with just about anything on the market. There are also some excellent technical articles on the Barefaced website that are very good reference documents.

I played one a number of times at my local store and regretted not buying it in the end. In the flesh It looks nothing like a Dimension. I have played one of those and IMHO the Kingfisher is a nicer bass to play.

Came to this late but back to the original post, why pay over £2K for any second-hand bass?

Downward firing port. I wonder what the issues are, if any, with it that close to the ground

The problem is that 4Khz from a 12 is both directional and can be a bit nasty. Using a properly designed crossover and Mid/HF Unit gets you there without the nastiness that a single driver can have (especially Eminence 12s) and avoiding the harshness of some tweeters. You may not need much above 4KHz but your 12 might need help form about 1.5KHz.

I had the 220 with the same pre-amp and found it great but it needed more power.

Could second as a DI and/or preamp too.

The Walkabout is rated at 165W into 8 ohms. I would guess that that would give about 118B with the Faital Pro driver. I will model; it soon but I am up to my ears at the moment.

Call it latency or propagation delay, the Dawson's one quotes 15Ms so twice as long as the Smooth-hound. I have been playing a Smoothound for over a year and never felt an issue. On Thursday, on a dark stage I had to bypass my pedal board that included Smoothound and plug in directly as I lost sound.* Playing with a cable did not sound noticeably different in a band setting. Someone mentioned the latency when plugging into a DAW? Why would you not go direct into the A to D input to the DAW? * I had disconnected a power supply cable when I trod on it. My fault, it should have been tucked out of the way.

The reason you use s resistive load is to take power factor out of the equation.

But how may watts RMS was the Sharpie?

The only way to test and amp is into a resistive load and quote the continuous power (RMA amps x RMS voltage). That give s Average watts. Sadly some use RMS Watts. If you audition an amp or speaker it has to be against another amp/cab in the same room at the same time as our ears have no memory. You may still get it wrong though as the room is a major component of your sound.

One of the things we did was spend hours and hours bracing the cabinet so as to remove resonances. Resonances colour the sound and waste energy. The only composite cabinets I have seen that are anywher neare a` properly damped wood cab are the old Ramsa WS-A200/500 series ( the ones the elephant stood on in the adverts if anyone remembers). However they are not light.

It is not stupid but not all powered PA cabs are created equal. Many have appalling cabinet resonances and suffer badly from the sort of marketing hype (in terms or power specs) that Behringer are often slated for. The fact is that it costs a lot to get a really good FRFR system and even the one that Stevie has been working on is expensive in terms of labour (if you had to pay yourself). Also the recommended driver (because of its weight) i has changed to a new Faital Pro Neo PR320 is approx £130 currently.

The weight at 13Kg is really light. It does not quite get to Barefaced levels but it is not far away. To get lowered weihht we would have the use thinner play and then the bracing and complexity of the design are a real issue. You would not believe the amount of work,especially by Stevie, that has gone into this.design. I am still using the Beyma Version and that comes in at about 14.5Kg I will be fitting a Faital Pro PR320 soon.

The one thing about the BF cabs is their light weight and I find that I would rather have a lightweight cab in one hand and a small amp in the other than a heavier combo in one hand. Of course I am lazt and use a small folding sack barrowlike THIS. Even more helpful is some bungees.

Just silly

I wonder if any amp that needs an idiots guide is worth while? Not being argumentative, just wondering.

Never assume anything when it comes to speakers. You will have lots of suggestions but you do need to try them. Also don'y rule out the Tonehammer, that is supposed to have a dialled in sound and it may be that that is throwing you off. If you can do bit of DIY, then the BassChat 1x12 MK2 may be the right one for you.