Chienmortbb

Perhaps I should have said any type of boost below 100Hz that can be added to the existing preamp bass/low shelving, plus graphic/parametric EQ and sub bass/octavers that go an octave below. Not grammatically correct but hopefully clearer.

No slow evolution really.

My only concern would be that slot port. Looks like ease of manufacture may have overridden absolute performance?

There is a gentle slope with no EQ but not quite enough IMHO for a decent HPF. The 30Hz at -15dB is more like it but you are affecting the sound as the 100-150 region is also affected. This is where the old school, hump is usually found. A good HPF will leave the area above 70Hz untouched. However in Ashdown's defence there is a degree of protection for speakers with that roll-off with the EQ switched off. Now if only they and others would ditch the deep or Sub switch.

I was of course tongue in cheek. However it really makes little sense for anyone to design their own power sections. iCEpower, PowerSoft and others have have it cracked and have the volumes of scale to be both cost effective and reliable. Propriety class D design nearly crippled Ampeg with the PF 500. Another reason for me not to buy MarkBass.

I am sure I read somewhere that MPT is Marketing Piffle and Tosh but I am finding it hard to find the link having been blinded by looking at a Ninja.

In my opinion it is vital in a modern amp.

Duke le Jeune of Audio Kinesis says that a -3db point of twice the fundamental frequency works well. That coincides with your figures for the SVT. I must admit though that I would prefer a bit lower and then dial it out electronically if needed

I ask myself whether they screwed up and meant to release it on April 1st. On a serious note, it is a Pre-Amp with a DI output.

Here are cone extension and max power graphs.

It models well at 30L tuned to 50 Hz.

I have Picato Flats on my Greg Bennett Semi Acoustic but they are now rare and I am looking for an alternative. On my Fender Aerodyne I have Ernie Ball Hybrids. I have heard good things about Chromes but I am thinking about going roundwound on both. A set of NYXLs might be just the ticket.

I took my home made 1x12 cab (The Basschat 1x12 Mk2) to Open Mic night about a year ago and another bassist played through it. he was blown away by my amp. A little Ashdown MyBaas 220. This outputs 100W into an 8 ohm Cabinet. I told the Ampeg using bassist that it was the cabinet not the amp. The cabinet has a 5" ports and the amount of air that goes through the port and into your leg is astonishing. Massive trouser flapping. It just goes to show that you have to look at the rig as a whole.

Some amps mute the amp when there is no inPut jack inserted. Insert the dummy jack and it unmutes the amp.

I have nothing against a hybrid but I cannot see the point,. Many hybrids have a valve front end but most people think the valve sound comes mostly from the power amp. It probably makes more sende to have SS front end and valve power amp but the weight and size saving is minimal.

I agree but it is a b*gger to read the panel on the chrome front.

The output increase from the amp is 3dB and form the extra speaker between 3-6dB but this is only in the low register (depending on how they are located and who you listen to) so your mids and highs will be 3 dB louder and your lows 6-9dB louder. The other factor to take into account is that if you play very loud, the single cab my be approaching power compression so the difference may seem even more. Two cabs my not be suffering from power compression nearly as much.

Sounds like a plan but go easy on them drivers as they may well exceed their Xmax at medium to low volumes. litsen for farting nopise and if there is no nasty smell it may be you driver exceeding its mechanical limits.

The picture makes the escutcheon look glossy. I mistakenly thought that you misread the subject of the thread.

On mine, the red light flicker occasionally but as they find free channels they go down quickly. The green lights should not flash. The right hand greens are battery condition if I remember rightly. If they flicker, you need to change the batteries. If they are new and the greens flicker, contact Chris at Smoothound.

Has anyone actually played the Evo II yet. They only arrived in June and most of the pics I have seen are of the Evo model. The newer Evo II has a satin finished front rather than the gloss.

You might get a crimson bass for that price. Give them a call.

23Hz is fine for studio work but a higher F3 point may be better live. There are a few reasons to use an HPF live. Firstly to tame room resonance. Each room is different and some are very resonant below 45Hz. Secondly to save the driver from unwanted excursion. The10-30 Hz region is useless in terms of Instrument reproduction but can cause excessive driver excursion and reduce the headroom available from your amp. The thuminator video is very informative. Duke Le Juene from Audio Kinetics says that the F3 point should be twice the fundamental frequency of the lowest string when played open. So 60-80Hz depending on how your bass is strung.

Despite the lack of posting, Stevie, Phil Starr and myself are still working on 12" DIY cab designs. One of the things Stevie and I discussed recently was the difference between FRFR bass cabs and PA cabs. PA cabs are usually designed to go on poles while bass cabs sit on the ground. A cabinet that measures flat on the floor will seem bass light on a pole as there is no mutual or floor coupling. Therefore many have either low end boost or reduced midrange to compensate. Put PA cabs on the floor and they may seem bass heavy/mid light. Of course if they have DSP then it may be possible to tune the response.

That I would rather go out in that that turn up with a Narkbass Ninja.