
Musky
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Everything posted by Musky
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Someone mentioned the 500w version of this amp a little while ago, which appeared to be based on the Ibanez Promethean.
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[quote name='PURPOLARIS' post='1107919' date='Jan 30 2011, 10:44 AM']Not this one doing the rounds again [/quote] I haven't even clicked the link and I know what it is.
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Dilemma! Would like opinions... with poll :)
Musky replied to Evil Undead's topic in General Discussion
If you're not really getting much use out of owning the bass it seems a little pointless keeping it, especially as it seems to be a source of worry. If you don't need the bass but do need a reliable amp it seems a bit of a no brainer really. There will always be other Warwicks once you're a bit more flush. Unfortunately the s/h prices of Warwicks are quite low at the moment so you might not make as much cash out of the sale as you'd like. -
Own up, did you think your bass/guitar was plastic?
Musky replied to waynepunkdude's topic in General Discussion
My first bass was one of these, so yes I knew that it was wood. What I didn't realise was that wood could be so heavy! -
Done.
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[quote name='BurritoBass' post='1099851' date='Jan 23 2011, 05:27 PM']Obviously people go on about the JV ones from the 80s, the Silver Series were nice too generally. I've had a couple of Korean Silver Series which were good. I think the quality dropped slightly in the 90s but they have really come back with the VM series etc. Generally though even the Affinity ones have something to offer.[/quote] There were never any Korean made Silver Series Squiers - they were all made in Japan. The confusion seems to arise from the use of silver logos in the early ninties, which some people take to denote a Silver Series instrument, but in fact the Silver Series was a slightly more expensive version of the standard Korean Squiers and built in Japan. They usually have the Silver Series logo on the ball of the headstock, though I've seen a few that don't. They also were the last Squiers built in Japan.
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[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Replacement_%22Toaster%22_Pickup_Rear_SRK1R"]Kent Armstrong toasters[/url]? They're going to sound very different to the ones currently installed and you would more than likely have to fill some of the existing pickup routs to fit them without leaving any tell-tale gaps.
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You could do much worse than this Peavey Microbass - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=119319"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=119319[/url] Plenty of people on here have used them for practice duties, so try the search function if you want to check out others opinions.
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First impression is... not a chance. Rickenbacker toasters are quite small pickups, and the soapbar humbuckers on the Schecter look waaaaay bigger. Even if the covers would physically fit over the soapbars you've still got the problem of the twin toaster slots. A better bet might be to have the soapbars chromed, and see if they can leave the toaster slots naked. I'm not sure how that would pan out though.
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Trying to understand the lingo? Acronyms explained!
Musky replied to Johnebass's topic in Introductions
[quote name='Stuee' post='1099235' date='Jan 23 2011, 12:12 AM']TIM, anyone?[/quote] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=111461&hl=Tim"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=111461&hl=Tim[/url] Or more to the point - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=111461&view=findpost&p=1028460"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...t&p=1028460[/url] -
[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1098704' date='Jan 22 2011, 03:04 PM']Hi WH I run a couple of FB pages, which are pretty well established. One of them (http://www.facebook.com/thecaffreys) has a non-3rd party music player on it, but I think it's been withdrawn to new users for some reason... 'tis a shame. It looks like Reverbnation or similar is the way to go. Other things to be aware of, IMO: Set the default landing page to be the Wall, rather than the General Info page. Try and encourage chat. Set the wall to show posts by both yourself and other users (I think it defaults to show your own posts only). Try and keep the quality of media to a decent standard (no washed-out snapshots with a flash, or dodgy videoclips). of course this is tricky if you leave the wall open to all. Also, bear in mind that if you bombard people with too much, there's a danger they'll unlike you. With this in mind, here's the the golden rule: Content and interaction are king, but don't overdo it! Also, IMO, FB works better in conjunction with a 'proper' website, as opposed to instead of.[/quote] Great advice, especially the last point.
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The band page tab you're seeing is most likely the [url="http://www.rootmusic.com/"]BandPage[/url] app (though you could also use Static FBML if you've got some basic HTML knowledge).
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Your problem seems to be getting a consistent sound rather than getting a decent sound in some circumstances. That's pretty normal as room acoustics, the positioning of the amp in the room and what your amp is set on will all affect your sound. There have been a few threads on the subject, but the long and short of it is that EQing isn't a set and forget process - you'll need to make adjustments for each environment you find yourself in. What are the circumstances when you're not getting the sound you want, and when is it sounding good to your ears?
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I notice he manages to get the words "wool" and "mammoth" in his description as well. FWIW I don't have a problem with people cloning other pedals, but I feel it's a bit naughty attempting to flog your pedal off someone else's reputation.
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[quote name='arthurhenry' post='1091120' date='Jan 16 2011, 09:41 AM']Where does RMS fit into all this? A Hartke LH500 puts out 350 watts into an 8 ohm Warwick 211pro. The 211pro handles 400w RMS, what does that mean?[/quote] RMS (Root Mean Square) is the standard measure of wattage for musical equipment. If wattage isn't stated as being RMS be very wary - some manufacturers will state Peak Music Power or other terms in order to inflate the apparent wattage of their equipment. In your case both items are rated with RMS figures, so no attempts at deception there. The 400w RMS figure given for your 211 pro means that the cab will handle 400w of power before the voice coil will start to melt - it's really a rating of the thermal power handling of the cab. How much power the speakers will take on the low notes will be limited by their displacement (Xmax), and will be considerably lower than it's thermal power handling.
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Not a combo, but the Orange Terror Bass and SP210 (or 212) makes a pretty compact package and should give you all the dirt you can handle. May be a bit above your budget though.
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If this were a Fender I'd say that wasn't really that unusual. I've no idea what systems G&L have in place. but I'd bet they they aren't that different to the way Fender operated.
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[quote name='Bassassin' post='1089440' date='Jan 14 2011, 03:23 PM']€908 = £765. Bloody hell. That bass is a Hondo. J.[/quote] Yeah. I'm guessing this has caught the eye of some Rick aficionados and and they've placed silly bids on it to stop someone else being fooled. Either that or a few people want a Rick and don't really know what a genuine one looks like.
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[quote name='tarcher' post='1087485' date='Jan 13 2011, 12:44 AM']As a ps is this a big problem? What sort of a percentage of people are doing this?[/quote] +1 I must admit when this thread was first posted up I looked back through a few pages on the ebay links forum to see how many were doing this (especially as I remembered there were quite a few recent threads that were started by people plugging their own auction). I was a bit surprised to find most had been members for quite a while and almost all were fully fledged members. I think there was one that would have been caught by this rule.
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Single most important thing you've been taught?
Musky replied to theosd's topic in General Discussion
Timing is 9/10ths of playing bass. -
Anyone else curious as to how you can actually 'tilt back' an 8x10 without out it falling over?
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My favourite bit of hi-fi hokum - [url="http://www.machinadynamica.com/machina31.htm"]http://www.machinadynamica.com/machina31.htm[/url]
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I've just remembered a tip posted by someone else a while back - just type pwn before the youtube URL. So the clip posted above would become [url="http://www.pwnyoutube.com/watch?v=ItZyaOlrb7E"]http://www.pwnyoutube.com/watch?v=ItZyaOlrb7E[/url]. It'll take you to a page with links to the clip in pretty much any format you could want, plus a few other handy features like the ability to link directly to a certain point in a youtube video.
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[quote name='LiamPodmore' post='1079204' date='Jan 5 2011, 09:31 PM'][url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItZyaOlrb7E"]This Website[/url] allows you to change youtube vids into MP3's with a few clicks, i've used it alot. Liam[/quote] You've linked to that clip of the mad drummer! I don't know which site you had in mind but I use [url="http://www.tube2mp3.de/en/index.php"]http://www.tube2mp3.de/en/index.php[/url]. There are plenty of others that do exactly the same thing though.
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[quote name='deepbass5' post='1076568' date='Jan 3 2011, 05:57 PM']Because a particular make of speaker cone can travel 5mm further than another makes no difference musically. Any one note played in any song will have a pitch which will determine the vibration frequency and our volume settings and how we attack that note will determine how far the cone will move on my rig or any other bass rig.[/quote] No difference at all until the speaker starts crapping out in the bass frequencies, which commonly kicks in at just a third of a speakers thermal power rating. Then you might be quite happy to have that extra 5mm of xmax to stay musical or indeed keep your speakers cones intact.