Musky

Twang? Do you perhaps mean fret buzz - a buzzing sound that is probably most noticeable when the string is first plucked? If it is fret buzz and it only appears after 45 minutes then it is probably down to technique. Does it go away if you focus more on what your left and right hands are doing? The alternative is that the neck on your bass may be shifting slightly due to changes in temperature. Do you rehearse somewhere particularly hot or cold?

[quote name='funky_numba' post='1022120' date='Nov 13 2010, 03:06 AM']I don't have a problem with the notes. Done all the musical theory stuff already from a singing point of view, so I have a good grasp of the theory of music. I just want to learn to play bass from a bass point of view. For example, what string should I strum, what fingers should I use on my left hand to hold down the strings, should I use one string as opposed to another string to produce the same note. Is it just a personal preference? I'm finding it hard work at times!! The other night I tried to play bass along to a fav song on a cd but some of the bass notes sounded even lower than my own bass could do. It's driving me nuts!!! Do I have to keep retuning my bass every time I play a different song in order to fit the note range? How do you guys prepare before practicing on a fav song??? Thanks for your input!! Paul.[/quote] Take a look at the scales section at www.studybass.com for left hand fingering, though I'd imagine most beginner tutorial books would cover this as well. I'd focus on using the suggested fingering for each scale, though of course when playing a song there my be times when you decide to play a note in another position (depending on where the song is going or because you prefer the timbre of a particular selection). Some recordings you'll come across may have been down tuned, or the bassist may be using a 5 string. If it's the former you can change the pitch in Best Practice so you can play along in standard tuning. If it's the latter you'll just have to play the note an octave up or buy a 5 string! [quote]On another note... how do I get my bass to have a much brighter and hard funky sound? Change the pickups? Change my new Rotosound Swing Strings to Jazz ones or Ernie Ball Super Slinkys? I'm a kinda newbie to this malarky!![/quote] For a bright sound you're using the right type of strings (round wounds). Everyone has their own preference for the brand of strings and you can experiment, but essentially the Rotosounds and the Ernie Ball strings will be in the same ball park. Have play about with your amp's EQ and the balance between the pickups on your bass. Personally I wouldn't bother with trying to upgrade your pickups, as it's likely to set you back more than the total cost of your amp and bass. Save the money for your next bass!

[quote name='Doddy' post='1022106' date='Nov 13 2010, 02:23 AM']So you needed a shelf help book [/quote] Oh dear... You're on form today!

I was reading an old review just a day or two ago. I've just checked again and the old reviews are still there - just use the search function. They seem to have done away with the date the reviews were added though. Edit: A bit more browsing around the site does throw up weird anomalies though - if you browse Bass>Amps you do just find two Fender reviews. Type in 'Fender' in the 'filter by brand' box, and it brings up many more. From the user reviews page: [i]Please note some reviews are still being restructured. As a result, if you don’t find what you are looking through at a specific level (i.e. Guitar Effects) you should consider clicking the “Show All” tab (some reviews haven’t been assigned to their appropriate buckets yet).[/i] And some brands definitely should be assigned to a bucket.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1016363' date='Nov 8 2010, 02:04 PM']That was funny. Clearly I have too much time on my hands today:[/quote] He's modified his description now, which is a bit of a shame as I was looking forward to the BS.

[quote name='funky_numba' post='1017091' date='Nov 9 2010, 12:40 AM']That song, Far From Over.. is very fast on the original cd. Need to find some way to slow the song down while keeping the same pitch so I can try and pick up the notes. Thanks again, Pete.[/quote] Like Pete says, Audacity can do that for you as can Windows Media Player (I'm reliably informed - I wouldn't know as I use a Mac). The downside to using Audacity is that you have to select the speed you require, which it then converts. It takes a little while and you have to repeat the process if you want it a bit faster or slower. The Best Practice software can do it on the fly, as well as changing pitch if you find the track you're listening to is tuned differently. Like Audacity it's freeware. They're both worth having IMHO.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1016209' date='Nov 8 2010, 11:57 AM']He's got a similarly optimistic/mentally challenged/archly comic (delete to fit personal theory) mate in Bath: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-GUITAR-GIBSON-LOGO-LED-ZEPELLIN-JACK-BRUCE_W0QQitemZ130452604384"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-GUITAR-GIBSON-L...emZ130452604384[/url] And you even get STICKERS with this one! J.[/quote] Good to see you're getting another quote in this one Jon. You really ought to be on commission.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1016830' date='Nov 8 2010, 07:56 PM']Don't know anything about SAI, but my Dad has a head made by Nolan (who were based in NI, I think?) which is remarkably similar! Second from the top... [/quote] I researched Nolan a few years back after seeing a few go on ebay fairly cheaply. Although they relocated to Ireland (where they were still making PA cabs at the time I was researching), they started off in Holloway before moving to Forest Hill. [attachment=63416:Nolan_Ad.jpg]

On the subject of learning by ear, [url="http://www.xs4all.nl/~mp2004/bp/"]Best Practice[/url] is invaluable for slowing things down to hear exactly what is being played. I use The Amazing Slow Downer, which does the same job only with the addition of a useful graphic eq to help dial out some of the other instruments. That one's not free though.

I'm wondering if it wouldn't be possible to use a standard tune-o-matic style bridge and simply mount it to a suitable fashioned piece of wood. Would probably mean cutting down the studs though,

Might be teaching your grandmother to suck eggs here, but are you plugged into the Line input on your mixer rather than a Mic input?

[url="http://reranch.com/101.htm"]Guitar ReRanch[/url] is pretty much the best site I've come across for info on stripping and repainting an instrument. They've got a [url="http://www.reranch.com/reranch/"]forum[/url] as well which is very useful and worth skimming through for tips and any questions that might not be covered in the 101 section. Time and patience are requisites for doing a good job!

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1012525' date='Nov 4 2010, 08:18 PM']Skunk stripes appear on necks with maple fretboards. These do not have a separate fretboard so the rod is inserted from the back. On necks with a rosewood board the rod is inserted from the front and the board attached on top. Jon.[/quote] In the 70's some necks with rosewood boards had skunk stripes as well. [quote]What's the story about a -i presume it is not a fake- neck without the skunkstripe, without the brown spot and no bullet trusrod?[/quote] Necks with rosewood boards don't need either the skunk stripe or the plug.

[quote name='Circle_of_Fifths' post='1011581' date='Nov 4 2010, 04:54 AM'][center][font="Century Gothic"] [size=4][i][color="#8B0000"]WILL TUNE BASS GUITARS FOR BEER. [/color][/i][/size][/font][/center][/quote] I like your style! In the meantime Paul could try [url="http://www.tunemybass.com/"]this website.[/url]

[quote name='daz' post='1010321' date='Nov 3 2010, 07:36 AM']Which Ric copies would (in the opinion of those out there who have tried them) is the nearest to an original.[/quote] Looks-wise, the Matsumoku through necks. With a Rickenbacker TRC they're close enough to fool some owners that they're genuine Ricks.

It sounds like your bass is in need of a good set up. It might just need the strings raising, but could well need the relief (the amount of bow in the neck) adjusting as well. There's a good guide to setting up a bass [url="http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]here[/url], but there are plenty of others on the net as well. Actually Joe's suggestion is a good one. There are plenty of BC members in Glasgow.

Welcome back! Have you still got those Roberts strings on?

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='1008798' date='Nov 1 2010, 06:06 PM']Works for the missus as well[/quote]

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1007045' date='Oct 31 2010, 09:59 AM']Graham imports a fair amount of stuff from the Far East.[/quote] Maybe that's the answer then. I'm not sure that it *technically* makes it a Silver Series, but it seems reasonable to assume that the construction is the same. It doubt it's going to stay at it's current price but it still might end up being a bargain for a MIJ squier.

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='1006879' date='Oct 30 2010, 11:47 PM']That one isn't actually a Silver Series is it? Check out no 'Silver Series' logo on the headstock. The seller says it's a silver series because Squier is in silver letters. Is that correct?[/quote] Apart from the lack of logo and the knobs (which should be flat topped) it looks like a Silver Series, and appears to say Made in Japan on the headstock (though it's quite hard to see). But I didn't think the Silver Series started up until a bit later - in fact I don't think any japanese squiers were being sold in this country in 1990. So it's a bit of mystery. Perhaps it's an imported domestic model? You're right to doubt the colour of the logo making it a Silver Series - it doesn't. It's just another of those internet myths, just like the story that ones with gold logos are 'Gold Series'.

A computer and media player of your choice? Actually scrub that - a computer and Best Practice or the Amazing Slow Downer.

Gallien Krueger is worth considering as well. They can be good for aggressive tones, and whilst not lightweight compared to the class D amps about they are usefully lighter than many of the alternatives.

Very good. You could spot the last recommendation coming though.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='998596' date='Oct 24 2010, 02:08 AM']Class D and switching power supplies (switch mode?) are different things, although they go together for most of the the lightweights. You can have a switching power supply and not be class D, I think the little marks are like that. There can be fun when you have both together and the frequencies they operate at produce a beat tone at an audible frequency (like when you play two notes slightly out of tune and you get a slow modulation thing).[/quote] True that. Should have said power stage, not power supply.

Bugera are playing a little bit fast and loose with their marketing. Although they proudly proclaim it's a valve amp it actually seems to be a hybrid. If that's the case then the valve part (the preamp) is class A - but then all valve preamps are class A. They give no clues as to what is going on with their power amp at all, not even an RMS figure for the wattage. Given that they've managed to magic up peak output 4 times higher than the RMS output on their '3600' watt monster, it doesn't exactly bode well for this amp. Class D just means that it uses a switching power supply, and is a proven technology. There's no need to preface the term with 'only' - it's not a rating of an amps quality, and just describes the mode of operation. Congratulations on the Bass Terror BTW.