hamfist

Yes, to clarify, the J&D body has standard Fender dimensions for it's neck heel slot. THe joys of communicating via text only !

The J&D Jazz body neck heel slot has a 63,5mm width. However they are for traditional 20 fret necks. THe Dimension has a longer neck. So the neck might fit, but the body is not designed for that length of neck. I wouldn't do it. You would need to move the bridge towards the neck by about an inch and it would put all the pickup positions well out. Also the bass would be "body heavy" as the weight distribution would be more towards the bridge end.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1426658943' post='2720335'] What's with the jigsaw :-D [/quote] It's true that life is full of such puzzles (geddit ??) In honesty I have absolutely no idea why my originally posted pic has changed to one of a 4000 piece jigsaw. It will remain one of the interwebs unsolved mysteries.

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1426354787' post='2717280'] braw [/quote] ??

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1425869423' post='2711689'] Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup. Tools need are a 4mm allen key, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick. Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools. First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string on the last fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag. Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock. Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right. Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height). There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune. The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard. Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup. I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps. [/quote] Good job. Nicely explained.

Yup, so long as you don't push it too far, it will do the job fine.

Its a 1984 Westone Concord. Although I pretty sure Westone never did any in that natural finish, so someone's taken the paint off and done that rather nice natural finish to the alder. They've also sanded down the headstock and rounded off some of the sharper edges to the design. I reckon it's still the original Concord neck though. http://www.westone.info/concord1bass.html

[quote name='Black Coffee' timestamp='1425329342' post='2706305'] I coveted that bass on Alan's site, gorgeous finish. Happy playing. [/quote] +1

For me, the B3K is way too noisy at the higher gain settings needed to get anywhere near a "Hysteria" tone, and too mid scooped also. The EHX Muff deluxe is a great pedal at a very good price point ... has all the mids that the original lacked. The negative is that it's a big pedal. For me, the best, best muff for bass is a Fuzzrocious Grey Stache in a blender pedal loop. A truly magnificent pedal. Both the fuzzes I mention also work great with active basses (in fact most muff-based pedals do).

It all depends on the current finish on the SR600 body, and whether it would let stain through it or not. Alternatively, if it has an sealed finish (and it probably does), how deep does it go and how easy is it to remove. Unfinished Ash is lovely to stain and work with in general. I'm guessing the Ibanez finish is fairly minimal, and that with a fairly basic hand-sanding down you would get down to pretty much bare ash again. I am not familiar with that exact model though. Certainly SR500 finishes are very thin.

I had a tribute SB-2. The neck was very thin (back to front). I like jazz necks, I even love Ibanez SR necks, but this was very slim, almost with a sharp profile edge. It hurt my hand on the edge of the neck where it rubbed up and down. Sonically, I felt it was a bit weak. I blamed this on the basswood body, but will obviously never know which factors were involved. It certainly had nowhere near the balls of a half decent precision IMO. I may have had a bad one, but I'm just being honest in how I saw it at the time. The general layout of the controls , without a tone knob was OK, but would have benefitted from a tone knob IMO. I've never played a USA one so I just don't know how these compare. It sounds as though I hated it, which just isn't true. It was a very competent bass. It just had a number of issues which, for me, were not what I was looking for. I was looking for a sort of "super precision". The tribute certainly was not that.

Yes, you can. I have played PLug in Baby with my band using all sorts of different tones and the song always works whatever, even with a completely clean tone . The song still works very well with a hugely non-original bass tone IMO. Unlike a lot of other Muse songs, like Hysteria, which are more dependent on the "big" Muse fuzz tone to create the fullness required.

Why not borrow some old valves from someone to see if you hear any difference. If not, then there will be no need to waste your money in getting some of your own. On some circuits the valve seems to make a huge difference, on others almost none. You won't know until you try. You should be able to get decent old Sylvanias, Brimars and Miniwatts etc from ebay for about £30 each. Make sure the seller states that they are tested and gives the actual results and, ideally, offers a refund for faulty ones. I must have bought several dozen old 12AX7's over the years from ebay and not had a duff one yet. IMO genuine Blackburn Mullards are the best, but they do cost.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1424469266' post='2696797'] It's 100% a DIY job [/quote] IF ...... there's room for the battery in the control cavity. With a precision there may or may not be. It's a small cavity. Many will not have room. If there is not room, it's a fairly simple task enlarging the cavity under the pickguard to fit the battery, but you will need a Dremel or a router and a bit of confidence in how to use it.