hamfist

Personally, I'd go with your original plan of extending the length of the heel pocket. It's not a difficult thing to do if you have a router and know what you're doing. It would correct the scale length, whilst also keeping the balance of the bass and the pickup position in the "correct" place on the 34" scale. If you simply fit the neck as is, in the current heel slot, and move the bridge a bit towards the neck to compensate, you will have to move the pickup by the same amount (if you want to keep the same pickup placement in relation to the scale). It'll all tend to make the bass a bit longer , which for most people I think would be a negative. I'd also say that if you are going to have to pay someone a far amount to do routing etc it would be much cheaper and easier just to buy a new neck (I'd go for a CWGP neck) made for a Fender-sized body.

The whole rumble series are highly under-rated IMO. If I was in the market for that type of amp, I'd seriously look at the rumble 500.

I'm not doubting Kiogon's excellent work, but there must be a complete lack of soldering ability on this board. Banging together a decent wiring loom yourself is actually a piece of cake for anyone with a modicum of ability and a tiny bit of motivation to learn how to solder.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1423943118' post='2690747'] Empress Compressor. [/quote] If you can afford it, this is the one to go for. The MXR is good, but the Empress is better.

I think they are really excellent. As good as anything out there. It all comes down to taste once you get to a certain level after all. The toneriders are full and punchy (for a J pickup anyway). The neck pickup in particular is not anaemic at all (which is a common criticism I have of many neck J pickups). They are my J pickup of choice.

Also, just heard from Phil of Guitarbuild that they will be starting to offer a range of their own bass necks, built themselves. I have no idea of when or how much, but I think there is definitely a place in the market for a British-built medium budget Fender-size necks. Note - I have no association with Guitarbuild, they have just contacted me because of this thread.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1423666779' post='2687685'] Hamfist - how would you describe the playability of the neck versus a USA Fender? [/quote] Yes, playability was something I forgot to mention. And the answer is very good. I have not felt the need to do anything to the frets at all. I'm sure I could lower the action a bit with a fret levelling but I'm very happy as it is. Comparing to a USA Fender neck, that's difficult as I don't think I've played enough USA Fenders to give a valid opiion. Comparing to a MIM neck and I can give you an answer ....... THe CWGP necks have noticeably nicer playability and better fretwork.

Just put together what is now my number one bass and I have been very impressed with my first Guitarbuild.co.uk body and my second Custom World guitar Parts neck. I have bought a few basic unfinished ash Jazz and Precision bodies (from the cheaper end of the market admittedly) and all of them apart from this guitarbuild one have needed tweaking with lining up the neck, or the length of the heel pocket or whatever. The router has been out with every one so far. It's never been quite a simple plug and play build. However, this Guitarbuild body is perfect in dimensions and fitting. The neck pocket, control cavity and bridge screw holes were just spot on, which was much appreciated when putting it together. From their website you can actually pick and choose the exact ready made body that you want, so you get the exact grain pattern that you want. You are not leaving to chance. It's a lovely resonant body too. Very, very happy with this one. The only negative is that, bizarrely, they don't come with the bridge grounding wire hole drilled. They will do it for an extra £15, which seems extravagant to me. I drilled my own, but I really think they should come with the hole drilled. It's a non-functional body otherwise really IMO. Edit ..... I've just been contacted by Guitarbuild and all the bodies they sell from now on WILL have the bridge earth wire drilled. Good news for any buyers. You can do it yourself, but it's a costly mistake if you mess it up (I know this because I drilled through the bottom of a body once doing this very thing ! And the neck - well this is my second CWGP Jazz neck and I really like them. The couple of Mighty Mite Jazz necks that I have had have always left a little bit to be desired tonally IMO. I like the MM P necks, which are obviously thicker and sturdier (and this is reflected in the tone), but the MM Jazz necks are I think just a bit wimpy, and the general construction and lack of rigidity of them detracts from the overall tone. I know many folks are very happy with them, but that is my experience. These CWGP necks have both been excellent and, for me, a higher quality product. They are a tiny bit chunkier than the MM J necks front to back, but are still obviously the std 38mm width nut. The nuts on the CWGP necks are Graphtech and on both necks needed very significant lowering of the nut slots. I'd expect this on any new neck TBH but you do have to take them down a lot with these ones. Not a problem for me, but for some I know it would be. From memory I seem to remember having to take down MM neck nut slots but not to the same extent. The MM ones were actually playable out of the box. Finish on the CWGP neck is a thick gloss varnish (vintage tinted on mine) and the grain pattern on both necks is beautiful. I have actually used one of these necks for about a year, quite extensively and the fret material is not cheap and soft. Only minimal fret marking so far on that one. Neck heel dimensions are bang on Fender standard (63.5mm width). Their prices and shipping are very reasonable too. I will buy these again. Thoroughly recommended. Yes, and I know pics are obligatory so ..... [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/p-bass-body-front-a.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/p-bass-body-rear.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/p-bass-neck-rear-c.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/p-bass-main.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/p-bass-neck-rear-b.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/p-bass-hstock-front.html"][/url]

Gig-tested my 300SMX now. The more I play this amp, the more I love it. I simply can't get over how good it is, and it only cost £180 !! Not just good for the money, this is the best amp I have ever played. The simple punch and fullness is outstanding and the graphic works in a way that makes an Ashdown 7 band EQ (a la ABM) simply feel like a placebo. The compressor is actually useful (if used subtley). Can't recommend it enough. I was shaking the room (at church no less) last week and only later discovered that I'd accidently knocked the 30Hz slider up a notch. Wow - sub bass central. Not especially loud where I was using it, but a very different experience putting out such a lot of sub. At a proper gig, the Trace 300W "felt" the same as my GK 1001's 700 watts. I only got to just over 3 on the MV through my 2x12. My only worry had been that 300W would not be enough, but there will be no issues with that. Amp GAS has now officially gone.

COG Knightfall, every time. Ideally with a blend pedal, or Tom's blend option (found on the Knightfall 66 ..... [url="http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/si-poulton.php"]http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/si-poulton.php[/url] ).

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1423419236' post='2684561'] Would it be the case that trying that finish with basswood wouldn't work as there wouldn't be enough grain? [/quote] Yes, basswood grain is generally very dull and uninteresting compared to Ash.

Only an extra £400 for a full warranty for an item of that value ? I think the used keyboard is overpriced then. In your position, I'd buy the new one every time. However, doesn't seem like the seller is doing anything inherently wrong. Every seller has the right to set their own conditions of purchase and it's just up to the buyer to decide if they want to agree to them.

Maybe I'm Super Special or something (unlikely), but I really don't find freehand Dremel pickup routs that difficult. I must have done over 20 by now, with no major cock-ups and no injuries. Certainly, I'm better at it now than I used to be and I get a better edge (mainly because I do the very edge with hand tools), but even my first attempts were OK. On TB if you mention Dremel routing they go almost berserk in saying how dangerous it is and how you could never do the job properly like that, but it's simply not true. Get the proper Dremel router kit, mark out your cavity accurately, take out a lot of the bulk of the wood with a large wood drill bit using a normal leccy drill first (mark the dril bit so you dril an accurate depth each time), then take your time with the routing and it's very do-able.

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1423150793' post='2681474'] Don't be tempted to freehand the cut though, make yourself a template! [/quote] Freehand routing with a Dremel and the plunge router attachment is actually pretty easy. I have never used a template. Just take it easy, get yourself well set up, nice and steady, holing the Dremel with both hands, good lighting, protect te guitar surface with tape and it's OK. My advice is to only go almost far enough with the Dremel right at the top edge and then finish off that final edge with hand tools, files, sandpaper blocks etc. It is easier to get a really pro edge that way. Undercut the edge with the Dremel and then finish the final edge with your hand tools. Oh, and practice on something first !

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1423122879' post='2680919'] I thought that this was going to be a thread about a new Ashdown product that changed into something else Like an amp that turned into a sheep or a mammoth [/quote] See your GP, urgently !

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1423127600' post='2680991'] I have used a small sanding barrel in either my Dremel or attached to a cordless grill, for doing that job. Something like this: Dirt cheap from Wilkos and general DIY stores. [/quote] Yes ! but I echo pfretrock's warning about exposing the cavity. If you are confident you are well away from exposing the cavity a file and some sandpaper will do the job, but you will reduced resale value on an expensive bass that way.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1423071806' post='2680352'] Looking good. [/quote] Looking .... Yellow !

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1423054450' post='2680020'] IF you're going to do it regularly then go for carbide/carbide tipped on. They last a lot longer. [/quote] You are limited with a Dremel, as they have a narrower chuck (I think that's the right word) than standard router bits require. The Dremel ones are very good though IME.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1423047358' post='2679899'] Is it the usual spot around the C# or D on the G string? Unless the shop is unusually accommodating, I think he may have a hard time persuading them that it's a fault and not just normal variance in the instrument. [/quote] +1