BassBod

I'd be very very surprised if anyone ever actually paid £1800 for a Metro...I'm sure there are deals to be done I got mine here, virtually new, for a lot less, so I have to assume the original owner didn't take a massive hit on the trade value.

Flats tend to feel "stiffer" to play than rounds, so I wouldn't go for a heavy guage without thinking it through first. They can also put a lot more tension on your bass neck, and the nut may require some work with a file, so some adjustments may be needed. Do a search here and on Talkbass - you will find lots of opinions and experiences. The favourites tend to be Labella's or Thomastiks - very different strings but both flats. I'd suggest Overwater or Status flats as a starting point as they are cheaper and standard guage, but give you the flatwound sound without extreme (or lack of) tension or cost. Good luck

Self assessment - I do it online. Its really just a case of being very organised with your records, and realistic about your expenses. I declare everything I earn (mainly gigs, some college teaching) and my significant expenses - mileage, consumables (strings and batteries) and sometimes a new suit for function gigs (where I make the most £). Unless you're very successful you won't pay tax on your musical earnings. My ambition remains to earn enough (after expenses) to pay tax....funny world.....

Really, nobody likes dirty maple - worn old nitro'd maple maybe...but not plain grubby grey. Put a light sealer coat of Rustins on at least, and stick to traditional plunky flats...it'll sound great.

Depends on strings and how hard you play, but it would chew up fairly quickly with steel rounds....but more of a problem is dirt. Maple goes a nasty grey and shows the grime very quickly. The hard finish also gives more of growl/whine than wood alone.

Bought Etienne's old jazz body....easy transaction, arrived very quickly packaged to perfection. Exactly as described. A credit to the gear frenzied world that is BassChat

I've done a couple of superglue boards - it really isn't difficult, as you only need a very thin layer. The only thing is each coat softens the previous slightly, so drying time increases as you buid it up - and you don't want to breathe the fumes too much. But the end result is great, provided the fingerboard is profiled well to start with... I'd never thought of Rustins - is it melamine? I've used it very diluted for fake oil finishes on maple necks, but I've never thought of using it for a fingerboard coating.

I've had some non-sense emails from Amazon..so I'd be interested to know what's happening before I cancel my order...

You could also try "Dom in Somerset" - a member here who undertakes repairs for a local shop. There is a list here somewhere at the top....

Thomastik flats are the bizz (not quite buzzzzz) on fretless, but you may have to adjust your set up for their floppy feel. I also love DR Sunbeams (nickel rounds) for a warmer "jaco" tone

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' post='892548' date='Jul 12 2010, 09:37 AM']I was very much taken with an Alembic that I tried (I'm told , one of their cheaper ones) anyone know the model? Growly tones that I'd never be allowed to use![/quote] Called an Epic - supposedly cheaper, due to a glued in neck (not thru) and thinner/simpler finish. Its got the sound, but luckily no filters for eq- love 'em, but they scare me!

A big thanks to the organisers - where else could you hear a pipe/bass guitar/drum trio on Sunday afternoon.. Big surprsise for me was the Jeff Finch 6 string - beautiful construction and the first sixer I could imagine playing.

Kevin bought a Stingray today - good communication, travelled here and paid as agreed etc. Nice chap and will happily deal with again - recommended, with no reservations!

Amp wise I'm thinking of just bringing some preamp exotica - Alembic F2B with SWR MR Tone controls - Pure valvey goodness and mega para-tweakability you really just don't need! But its just fun.

Sorry, I've no idea. I would get one from a European (German?) source before UK, as it always seems to be cheaper, and also probably cheaper direct from SWR? Try an email, or better a call and see if they'll deal with you directly. It was a while ago, but I've had some helpful replies (small replacement parts and circuit plans) from SWR in the past.

From memory, it depends on the age. Earlier (up to late 1990's?) had a transformer that could be re-wired, but they moved to fitting different transformers for USA/Europe models. If you look under the technical support area on their site, I think there is a statement about it. Worse case, you can probably buy a replacement to suit but it will cost.

I've got a virtually new Ritter one here - might come with a nice Stingray inside for around £40......not the best bag in the world, but its ok?

So it may have been a "faded" blue?? I know you can't judge colours from computer screens, but that has some blueness to it...or was that just the music?

Very nice. Tell us the whole story...and who would paint a J bass grey.......

The bass has been around for a few months..but the garden is a new addition. There could be a few of these added over the summer.. [attachment=53589:P1000282.JPG][attachment=53588:P1000285.JPG] Edit - and here's another already... [attachment=53603:P1000308.JPG] [attachment=53604:P1000306.JPG]

The Realist/David Gage piezo is the one I'd suggest, provided it can sit under a bridge foot (bass side usually). I don't know the Aria design, but check it out? I also wouldn't advise on board eq for upright - put your funds into good pickups and "flat" buffer/mixer circuits to get them working well. John East knows all about this....