
BassBod
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Everything posted by BassBod
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Not complete b$£ll&cks...I remember reading the same thing about MK and Alembic. Funny thing is the sig Alembic's are just nice Alembics - SeriesI/II style but without the really expensive electronics? From what I recall the only things MK chose were the facing woods and scale length? The one that impressed me was the Roscoe Beck V - I'm sure he made Fender spend a lot more than they ever intended on pickups and hardware etc, but he got what he wanted and created a very nice variation and update on the Fender concept.
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Allan Holdsworth/Jimmy Johnson/Gary Husband Gig
BassBod replied to Steve Woodcock's topic in General Discussion
I really should get out more...and keep an eye out for who is touring! -
The screening won't really reduce the single coil hum from the pickups, so may be wasted effort. I've got a set of handmade Kent Armstrong humbucking J pickups in for for sales - these can be wired for series/parallel wiring etc and are dead silent. They are both "bridge" sized (same as EMG LJ) and were made as a matched pair (bridge is wound slightly hotter then neck). Although these were made over ten years ago they were only in a bass for about six weeks! Its sounded great, but was very very heavy....
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I've always preferred jazz necks (very slim or more C shaped) but I've found I can adapt to most. For a while I enjoyed playing a very chuncky V neck on an old Wal (neck was nice..but the body was heavy!). The "best" neck I've owned was a Bravewood chuncky maple P bass - very comfy and easy to get around. One thing - is it only the neck on the fretless P that bothers you? I have never played a fretless Pbass I liked that had just the standard P bass pickup - too woofy and big for my idea of a good fretless sound.
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Shameless punt - this ones in the "for sales"... [attachment=51930:P1000265.JPG]
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I wouldn't stress about a combo, there are so many great little amps around now. My vote would be a Euphonic Audio head, (used 500?) and a wizzy 1x12 or Barefaced Midget. My GK MB150 still surprises me...but every now and then it sounds crap! All depends on the room. My other suggestion is the old SWR 220 head - its a puny 160w into 8 ohms, but a small modern 4ohm cab could sound very good and plenty loud?
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Yes, I use Liberon oils - great stuff. The tung oil is very easy to use and provides a good finish. You should thin the first few coats (white spirit) to get it to penetrate fully and quickly. The neutral/clear wax polish is also very good, thicker and glossier than Warwicks's beeswax, and probably at least half the price.
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There is a nice Radial passive going in the for sales....as long as you're after a passive DI you won't get much better? I run mine from the preamp output of SWR's and its very very good, with no complaints (to date) from engineers in many venues, in a few countries.
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Two things puzzle me about the Hartke. It only seems to have one volume knob, rather than input gain/output volume. With the fender-style valve preamp and passive eq I would think its important to match the input gain to the instrument? Also the DI seems to be pre-eq (ie flat) only, so you can't send your preamp sound as a DI. Can anyone who's owned or used one comment?
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Help with nut groove height relative to first fret
BassBod replied to LawrenceH's topic in Repairs and Technical
My personal method is to reduce the depth of the nut groove until you can barely see a gap - but its not actually touching, then a small press on the string over the first fret gives you a slight click as it touches. But its very easy to cut too deep, so be careful... The other quick check for nut height is to hold all strings down at the first fret and see how much lower the existing action is overall - this takes the nut out of the equation completley, so makes for a good quick comparison. The strings you use can make a difference as well. I tend to use more flexible strings (DR sunbeams or Thomastik flats) so they are bit more forgiving. If I used stainless Roto's I'd want to get it as close to perfect as I could. -
Looks good - but superglue isn't that scary - its surprising how little you need to make it sing, and the fingerboard soaks up the first applications very quickly. Don't get it on your hands though....
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Help with nut groove height relative to first fret
BassBod replied to LawrenceH's topic in Repairs and Technical
The general guide is - hold the string down at the third fret, and look at the gap between string and first fret - should be just a hair from touching the first fret. -
Flatwounds...where are you buying them from?
BassBod replied to markyboy2106's topic in Accessories and Misc
Thomman are also good for flats - as long as you're buying something else to spread the shipping costs. Their prices on Thomastiks and Pyramid are usually very good (relatively!) -
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Got this one in a trade a few weeks ago, nice bass but not something I need. Medium weight ash body, maple neck and rosewood fingerboard. Aero humbuckers, EMG circuit (bass and treble boost/cut) badass II bridge, Fender tuners and a Warwick brass adjustable nut. [attachment=50730:P1000265.JPG][attachment=50729:P1000261.JPG] The frets have been levelled, and left with pretty flat tops. It could do with another level/re-profile to get it playing its best. The bar type string retainer didn't retain (!) so I've replaced that with a fender type, so there are two small holes in the headstock face. I've also put Dunlop strap buttons on. [attachment=50731:P1000264.JPG] The fretless neck is made from slightly figured maple, with a Tulip wood strip inlayed along the back and a lined ebony fingerboard. Its a very thin profile - too thin for me! [attachment=50733:P1000269.JPG] Comes in a Kinsman generic hard case. Collection from Bristol/Bath area much preferred - pm any questions, although I've got a busy weekend so please don't be offended if it takes a few days to answer questions. BB
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Bravewood 50's style P bass for sale on his site...
BassBod replied to Noisyjon's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
[quote name='Sibob' post='848714' date='May 26 2010, 05:21 PM']That fingerboard is a bit rubbish isn't it! Rest of it looks nice though Bet it's got a Fender Logo Si[/quote] Hopefully its the logo that prevents any "head shots"....could also be the headstock isn't straight...judging by recent posts, and some experience! -
Bravewood 50's style P bass for sale on his site...
BassBod replied to Noisyjon's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
Ummm...some of us still don't... -
Another unpaid "endorsement" for Orchid Electronics. If you want a simple active DI its a fantastic box for the low cost. And most importantly it sounds good...as long as your bass does!