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BassBod

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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. BassBod
    No passive option (but it doesn't sound very very active anyway?) its Vol/Vol/Bass cut-boost/Treble cut-boost. Simples.
  2. BassBod
    Thanks for the comment Graham....must be bump time again
  3. BassBod
    Yes, I use Liberon oils - great stuff. The tung oil is very easy to use and provides a good finish. You should thin the first few coats (white spirit) to get it to penetrate fully and quickly. The neutral/clear wax polish is also very good, thicker and glossier than Warwicks's beeswax, and probably at least half the price.
  4. BassBod
    There is a nice Radial passive going in the for sales....as long as you're after a passive DI you won't get much better? I run mine from the preamp output of SWR's and its very very good, with no complaints (to date) from engineers in many venues, in a few countries.
  5. BassBod
    Two things puzzle me about the Hartke. It only seems to have one volume knob, rather than input gain/output volume. With the fender-style valve preamp and passive eq I would think its important to match the input gain to the instrument? Also the DI seems to be pre-eq (ie flat) only, so you can't send your preamp sound as a DI. Can anyone who's owned or used one comment?
  6. BassBod
    Probably last bump - interesting trades plus cash most welcome. Whatchagot??
  7. BassBod
    Second bump - keep those offers coming in...
  8. BassBod
    My personal method is to reduce the depth of the nut groove until you can barely see a gap - but its not actually touching, then a small press on the string over the first fret gives you a slight click as it touches. But its very easy to cut too deep, so be careful... The other quick check for nut height is to hold all strings down at the first fret and see how much lower the existing action is overall - this takes the nut out of the equation completley, so makes for a good quick comparison. The strings you use can make a difference as well. I tend to use more flexible strings (DR sunbeams or Thomastik flats) so they are bit more forgiving. If I used stainless Roto's I'd want to get it as close to perfect as I could.
  9. BassBod
    Looks good - but superglue isn't that scary - its surprising how little you need to make it sing, and the fingerboard soaks up the first applications very quickly. Don't get it on your hands though....
  10. BassBod
    The general guide is - hold the string down at the third fret, and look at the gap between string and first fret - should be just a hair from touching the first fret.
  11. BassBod
    Thomman are also good for flats - as long as you're buying something else to spread the shipping costs. Their prices on Thomastiks and Pyramid are usually very good (relatively!)
  12. BassBod
    First bump...that was quick!
  13. BassBod
    Got this one in a trade a few weeks ago, nice bass but not something I need. Medium weight ash body, maple neck and rosewood fingerboard. Aero humbuckers, EMG circuit (bass and treble boost/cut) badass II bridge, Fender tuners and a Warwick brass adjustable nut. [attachment=50730:P1000265.JPG][attachment=50729:P1000261.JPG] The frets have been levelled, and left with pretty flat tops. It could do with another level/re-profile to get it playing its best. The bar type string retainer didn't retain (!) so I've replaced that with a fender type, so there are two small holes in the headstock face. I've also put Dunlop strap buttons on. [attachment=50731:P1000264.JPG] The fretless neck is made from slightly figured maple, with a Tulip wood strip inlayed along the back and a lined ebony fingerboard. Its a very thin profile - too thin for me! [attachment=50733:P1000269.JPG] Comes in a Kinsman generic hard case. Collection from Bristol/Bath area much preferred - pm any questions, although I've got a busy weekend so please don't be offended if it takes a few days to answer questions. BB
  14. BassBod
    [quote name='Sibob' post='848714' date='May 26 2010, 05:21 PM']That fingerboard is a bit rubbish isn't it! Rest of it looks nice though Bet it's got a Fender Logo Si[/quote] Hopefully its the logo that prevents any "head shots"....could also be the headstock isn't straight...judging by recent posts, and some experience!
  15. BassBod
    Ummm...some of us still don't...
  16. BassBod
    Another unpaid "endorsement" for Orchid Electronics. If you want a simple active DI its a fantastic box for the low cost. And most importantly it sounds good...as long as your bass does!
  17. BassBod
    I'll go for trad, maple neck (with easy truss rod access under the scratchplate) maybe a seperate chrome plate for the electronics. But I'd also go for Alembic P style pickups and some very good preampery (ACG filter?). Or maybe a Darkstar. With flats.
  18. BassBod
    I always tought the early Overwaters were..um..fugly, as they say on the interweb. But I tried one a few years ago and it was a joy to play - a lovely bass indeed. Those Lawrence pickups are very unusual for a Brit bass, and a nice change from Armstrongs. Bet you're a happy bass player!
  19. BassBod
    I've only ever seen one WW amp - Steve Swallow's. I think one member here has one, but I understand they do differ a lot in design from one version to another. Try a search on Talkbass, as I'm sure there was a diagram posted there last year?
  20. BassBod
    No one else can tell you...but Overwaters (and most UK makes) will always be "worth-less" compared to a respected/known USA instrument. Not really fair, but that seems to be the market, and has been for as long as I've been aware. There is one obvious exception, but lets not go there again.
  21. BassBod
    Another deal done (joint purchase of posh Italia strap) easy, easy, easy...thanks Nick
  22. BassBod
    Always interested...Bristol/Bath. And thinking of moving my trusty EA cabs on!
  23. BassBod
    My experience is limited to the Compact that went round the country last year, but I really disliked the look of the strap handle whe I saw photos of that cab. I thought it looked cheap and flimsy and would last about three weeks. Once the cab was here and I'd lifted it twice I never thought about it again. The additional wheels on the 2x12 would be a doddle. However, I think I should be sent another to try out, just to be sure.....I'll look after it, honest!
  24. BassBod
    Ok, now I understand....I'll get the ruler out and see. Looks like they are all bridge sized (93mm long x 17mm wide) except the SD neck pickup which is 91mm x 17mm. Doesn't really matter too much about the make of bass, as J pickups are pretty much universally made in two sizes - "fender" bridge or neck. The difference is due to the reducing string spacing between bridge and nut. The pole pieces need to be under a string to work well on traditional pickups, although othes (like the Kent Armstrongs or EMG) use a bar magnet, so it doesn't really matter - but they are still normally made to fit existing routings. Both these sets are passive, but will work fine if connected to an active preamp - but if they fitted, I would use the Kent Armstrongs as they are humbuckers, so you won't be amplifing single coil hum when you solo a pickup (as all trad single coils do). Chances are your bass has the normal bridge and neck sized routings? (so the KA's won't fit...)
  25. BassBod
    Which ones? The Seymour Duncans are a standard bridge and neck sized pair, designed to fit in Fenders or close copies. The Kent Armstrongs are both the standard "bridge" position size (the larger of the normal two sizes). Does that help?
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