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BassBod

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. Hi Sparky, I've got a similar Martin - how do you get on with strings for yours? I liked the Martin bronze ones, but found them too "clacky". I've ended up with Thomastik flats....like the mellow sound and feel, but can't help feeling I've lost a bit of volume and presence? BB
  2. Looks like a version of the Alembic system - using a "dummy" pickup as a noise canceller? Can't imagine that was ever standard on a Kramer? I've never owned a Series I or II Alembic, but I recall they have trim pots (active gain adjustment) to fine tune the effect of the noise canceller in relation to the main pickup outputs. My guess is that to work well they should ideally be physically close to the real pickups so they "hear" the same noise? Worth some investigating... BB
  3. [attachment=3700:DSCN0858.JPG] My Clifton's passive - never got round to putting the pre-amp in! One day...maybe? BB
  4. I've used a Sansamp for 10+ years (with SWR, GK, Eden and now EA amps) to give a bit of added "warmth" or "edge"when needed. Its easy to overdo it, but with a bit of messing around you can use it in subtle ways (as well as full blown fuzzzz). The blend control is the key, a well as being careful with the eq. I've also got an old Alembic preamp - its fantastic, as valve as valve can be etc but there are plenty of times when I don't want to be carrying 19" racks about. BB
  5. [attachment=3559:DSCN0861.JPG] That's not my old 73 by any chance? BB
  6. Yep, I've got a mint Goliath II here (near Bristol), with cover - great cab but I don't need that sort of volume anymore. PM me if you want to talk? [attachment=3553:DSCN0816.JPG] BB
  7. Glad you like it! How about the Jbitsa... BB
  8. Maybe talk to Mr East? I recall he can make some pretty nifty piezo buffer/mixers - probably better than Fishman?? I bypassed the Fishman pre on an acoustic, and used an external LR Baggs (para DI). Sounded a lot better. BB
  9. I've had similar experiences sometimes - I usually just stop playing in the soundcheck, to make it obvious that the problem isn't (only) the bass. I also ask everyone to take a bit of "low" off their amp - an attempt to get everyone involved in solving the problem rather than complaining. Doesn't usually work, obviously. I've learned that some musicians actually expect to hear themselves "above" the band - violdin players as well as gitartists. I've been told a few times that the gamma things help a lot in boomy places - its just another option for those tricky places? Good luck BB
  10. Jazz gig in a Methodist church in Bath (ten mins away..joy). Very civilized way to make (less then half) a living. BB
  11. Good suggestion there on the Rustins "plastic coating" - if you thin it down a lot (and wipe on) it can give an oil look, but with a permanent seal that requires no upkeep. I've only done this once (a maple fboard J neck) and it looked and felt good, took about two years to look grubby. I guess you could then lightly sand and re-apply a fresh coat. Mr Foxen - I had no idea there was a Wish bass so close to home! We must meet up at some point...... BB
  12. Glad to see you like it then BJ....the GK is proving very handy! (free bump) BB
  13. I've put a few together, and played them a lot. The body and neck are good, but the body is usually alder. Its the "right" wood, is real wood but can look very boring if only oil finished - depends on the grain. The pickups and hardware are ok but I replaced most of it (except the Gotoh tuners) with WD stuff and Kent Armstrong "Sky" p/ups. For the money they are great basses. Its worth calling them - for example, a finished sunburst body and an oiled neck makes a great platform for a P or J bass, with whatever hardware and pickups you prefer. The only real issue is that of perfect fit - components from different makers don't always work, particularly scratchplates. So if you want to fit an upgrded part, assemble all the bits before you start - it can save hassle. BB
  14. Just one or two coats of oil - no wax. You'll have to clean and re-oil every couple of months (depending on use) but it only takes ten mins... BB
  15. Lots of questions...here goes. I wanted to learn about the build process, rather than make "my" definative bass - and that's exactly what I got to do. I learned that to do a professional job takes a lot of skill - but also a lot of "jigging". Knowing how to work wood in a reliable and repeatable way takes experience and understanding. I was set up with each process, and basically left to get on with it. I'm not very confident with routers, but John made sure I knew what to do, and took over if I bottled out...the most dangerous bit was probably cutting the fret slots. The design is a cross between a standard J and John's downsized version. There isn't much difference between this and a "standard Shuker" other than I did most of the work! Apart from a few scrathes and dents...of course. The finish is a simple satin to save time, and the bridge and tuners were re-used from a previous bass. I even had to solder the active circuit board together, once John had placed the components in the board. Wood choices and laminates were "improvised" from what was available. But there was a lot of choice (bocate fingerboard?). [attachment=3226:DSCN0760.JPG][attachment=3227:DSCN0763.JPG][attachment=3228:DSCN0767.JPG] I can't really comment on the cost - it was four years ago, and I'm sure John is a lot busier these days. At the time his workshop was in Clay Cross. If anyone is really interested then do contact John - its a great way to spend a week. BB
  16. I did - made a 5 string "super J" in 5 days! PM me for details, or I'll post more later when the kids aren't running around.... [attachment=3199:DSCN0764.JPG] BB
  17. One last bump before it goes back under the stairs... BB
  18. Liberon Tung oil, followed by a good beeswax polish for the body (not neck). The Warwick wax is good, but expensive and doesn't build up as quickly as a furniture polish. Avoid anything containing silicon (that goes for life in general..). Read and follow the instructions. You can also use gunstock oil (Musicman do) - but it seems to contain more "nasties"? BB
  19. I thought about building mine into another box, with real jacks fixed to the case.....but life's too short....so I sold it. Shame 'cause it is a great pedal but really isn't up to gigging - even the gentle polite stuff. BB
  20. I can still vividly remember the "country" gig where they were all dressed as cowboys and indians. They had been drinking heavily all weekend. The guns I guessed were fake, but the knives and the rope......I've never seen a PA engineer beg us to play before......and I'm sure the milkybarkid was too young to be that pissed. yeeeharr(Weston-Super-Mare style). BB
  21. One more bump before I keep it....... BB
  22. Sounds good - do I have to go round the "magic roundabout"?? BB
  23. Cheers Paul, Its only a bitsa, but I've had fun playing it (usually for dinner jazzzz..love those plastic strings). But I've got GAS/poverty and its a bad combination. BB
  24. Its all poly, but professionally done. Neck looks slightly yellow tinted, rather than clear? BB
  25. Not keen on posting - its been a hassle every time, the hard case isn't that good and I'd rather someone had a play before buying it. BB
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