BassBod

Sold the bitsajazz to Luke, and swapped another - great man to deal with, no problems (he does like his Warwicks.....) BB

Recently did a "string swap" - no problems, turned up in good time, as described. BB

Thats a pretty rare combination - I doubt it started life like that! Wonder what became of the donor Wal?.....Never worth the money it'll fetch (IMO) but good luck to the seller... Well spotted Rich! BB

Thank you for saying the RBV is on the heavy side - that's eased the GAS for a while (I'm having the same experience with an Alembic V - fantastic bass, but better if you sit down!) I also had a Wal ProIIE which, for me, had the worst balance/weight issues....so I guess you're used to a decent chunk of timber round your neck! cheers BB

If its a straight signal from an active bass, look for the Radial Pro DI (without the costly Jensen transformer). The Sansamp is also great, but doesn't sound like you need the amp emulation features? BB

I'd agree on the mixing resistors - I used that version on a recent "old jazz" project and it does cost you a bit of output (but the two stack pots don't react to each other at all, which is the point). With the same pickups I lost a noticable chunk of power, and it also makes the single coil hum seem more problematic..but I could be imagining that bit! BB

I've used a few bodies and necks - looked pretty much identical to the Jap Squier stuff from the late 80's to me (router humps and all..) Have fun (and yes, the tuners are fine if they're the Gotoh ones, but the other hardware isn't very nice...you'll probably replace it) BB

For me its all about the deal - which band (music, people)/fee/distance/how busy I am that week/could it get me more or better work. I do very little for free, but I do a fair bit in the £20-£50 range. Less in the £50-£150 range. I live in Brisitol, so my general radius is an hour from home, stretching to Cardiff, Brum, London and Exeter for the right deal. BB

Thanks for that elom, pleasure to meet you (and hope you like the bass!)...any others out there?? BB

Have you used the Alembic preamp through the GoliathII? I use to use an F2B/ Stereo800 pwr /GoliathII setup and it had absolutely no mids, without some serious bass cut! I ended up using an SWR 220 instead, just so I could hear which note I was playing. I learned that some fantstic bits of kit don't always complement each other... BB

I think you easily win the poshest gig award, and probably the tastiest gear - but tell me, how does the Polytone stand up in all this? I haven't seen one in years. I liked them (years ago, before GK combos arrived) but its so long since I saw or heard one...its got me thinking? BB

The same format from different makers can give very different results, I'm afraid. I've heard 2x10's that were thin and edgy, and some that were thick and muddy....sorry! I'd suggest a secondhand Euphonic Audio CXL112 as the best all rounder I've used, and the more recent Wizzy's are cheaper and lighter (and 4 ohm?) BB

Somewhere, I've seen small brass collars, designed to make split shafts work better with set screw knobs. Can't remember where but I'm sure someone here will know..... I'd think that would do the job BB

Try saitenkatalog.de (or something very similar to that) usually a bit cheaper (and arrives in 3-4 days). BB

Oooohhh yesssss, indeeed.... BB

I use an active DI from Orchid Electronics in Exeter. Very clean active DI box, with a mute footswitch, red light, tuner send, amp output - plugged into a Boss floor pedal tuner. Very easy to use, runs on battery or phantom power and it gives me a choice of DI from pedal or amp. BB

No idea about Martin in the UK, but I read somewhere that they only warrant their electrics for 3 months! I also explored the Fishman site and they described the problem exactly, with a "sh*t happens"...approach. I could've got a Fishman replacement pretty easily (its nothing special as far as I could see) but instead I had a K&K fitted (well, glued) under the bridge plate, and bypassed the internal preamp. I think it sounds better (more woody, less stringy) so I'm happy. BB

The superglue method works fine. You can also shim the nut slightly higher (superglue a strip of veneer to the bottom) and cut the slots down to improve the fit, but it depends if they are way too wide or just a bit. If its a P or J type you can get shaped and pre-slotted (and curved, if needed) nuts for a few £, using this interweb thing so I wouldn't spend too much time fettling to perfection if the original is a lost cause. Whatever method you use, decide on the strings first and take it from there? BB

[attachment=3751:DSCN0885.JPG] Mine was given a good (ie low) set up before I got it - it plays nicely, but aggressive playing (ie with anyone else!) does produce some rattles and clacks. I tried the Thomastik acoustic strings - they sounded fantastic (think big classical guitar) but were far too thin and flexible to play with the current set up, hence the Thom flats which are still a bit floppy, but a better balance of sound and feel for me. I think your approach is better than messing about - the standard Martin strings are fine, just let them age a bit more and most of the "clack" will probably be gone in a few months. I should also mention the p/up died - started humming suddenly. Its wrapped in a thin shield (paper thin) and this is easily damaged. If you ever take out the bridge saddle be very careful. I'm guessing it was the set up that damaged it (only a tiny fray in the outer shield) cause I only changed strings! BB