BassBod

Just another recent experience - I changed a SPB3 for a DiMarzio P. Less aggressive, a bit warmer and a more traditional Pbass tone, but more power than a standard P pickup. I didn't think I'd like it (it was a leftover from another bass) but having used it for a few weeks I think its a keeper. I also put a SPB1 into a 73 Pbass a year or two ago (when the original finally died) and it was fantastic - very close to the "real" thing. The Kent Armstrong is also very good for the money, but doesn't look as "authentic" as the SPB1 on an old bass (slightly grey platic cover and raised polepieces). In fact, now I think about it..the SPB3 is the only P pickup I haven't liked (including the EMG)! BB

Yep, I played it this summer - very nice. BB

I've played there at least three times, and I can still never find the place! Good luck, and make sure you've got their phone no. for directions! BB

Hey Shaggy, Glad to see someone's enjoying the fretless P bass (I traded it last year with Walbassist, after many years good service...). I'm sure you can guess why the ebony board is thinner than usual! Have fun BB

Very nice - you do like a P don't you! (Bremen isn't that small.....if its the one I think it was) BB

Fiver arrived in the post - as promised. Glad the knobs fitted! BB

Spray the face of the headstock, but oil the rest of the neck - looks great, as there is no visible transition between oil/varnish (as on MM basses) BB

The Thomastik flats (32" medium scale) should fit and should sound musical rather than dead, but you may have to bring up the bridge height to compensate for their floppy feel.... BB

I've found WD a bit variable - generally good, but not always. I recently tried a very expensive tort plate for a Pbass and it was awful - nothing minor, it didn't even cover the routing properly round the jack. And it looked pretty bad. Bought the same thing about ten years ago and it was a perfect fit (on a 70's Pbass) and very close to the original in colour,ply etc. I'd suggest "guitarpartsresource.com" or something very close to that, they've got a good bass section plus they deliver pretty quickly. There's always a bit of "fitting" required, but nothing major in most cases - most important is to get the holes in the best alignment possible so you don't distort them all (basswood bodies can be very soft!) BB

I've seen them on very old J basses - remember there was a huge cover over the bridge/pup (plus mutes) so it wasn't visible. I guess it was easier than drilling an awkward hole and Leo was always trying to speed things up in the factory.... BB

Its just a strip of thin brass - you can get it from "hobby" shops, I think. I've got a big sheet here PM me if you want some? BB

I changed the MEC stuff in a Stage I (EMG pickups and Aguilar circuit). The Aguilar circuit was a big improvement over the MEC, but the EMG's weren't that much better - in fact, I thought they were pretty similar in tone. More extreme top end and lows, but not that different. BB

Red jazzzzzz...mmmmm [attachment=4393:DSCN1015.JPG] Its not really as pink as the photo looks..honest BB

I forgot to mention - try running the Fishman into the effects recieve input of the amp (bypass ths amp's own pre) and you should get a more accurate sound, although the level may be a bit too low. This can help you hear the pickup better, and takes one thing out of the signal chain. good luck BB

Ok, I've used SWR (Studio 220, Grand Prix) for upright - no problems, as long as the enhancer is off. In fact the "clean" sound is very good, if a bit polite. I've also used an old Alembic pre - fantastic, clear and warm but muddy with SWR cabs (better with EA). So I guess its all down to personal preferences and experience? My suggestion is this - set all eq to "flat" or as near as you can get. Use an external preamp (the Fishman is good for matching p/up to amp) and firstly look at the gain structure - you want to get the cleanest strongest signal into the amp that you can get before anything starts distorting. This means being realistic about how hard you play, and setting the max input on the preamp (without distortion) followed by the max amp input, and then whatever amp output is required for the gig. When these are well balanced, then add eq with whatever (preamp or amp) works best, but use it sparingly - don't add lots of lows (below 100hrtz) as this will usually cause mud and feedback, and you'll be losing power where you can't really hear it. Piezo's can put out a lot of really low frequencies, so look out for your speaker cones. If that doesn't help, its a step back to looking at how well the pickup is mounted.....and the bridge fit....etc Time for another beer....cheers BB

Hi Jon, Not used that version, but I did have the "bass max"? single version for a while (the one that wedges into the bridge slots). I liked it but thought it sounded a bit "nasal". Easy to fit, but not as natural a sound as I was after (on EUB). A preamp helped to make it sound fuller. More recently I've put a K&K into an acoustic bass guitar and I'm very impressed with how natural it sounds compared to an under saddle piezo strip. If you could give a summary of what you think is wrong I may be able to suggest a few things? BB

I'll add one for Chris May and Laurence at Overwater - new handle for EA CXL cab, no cost. Mind you, they're not cheap.....Also Mansons in Exeter have always sorted things out with minimal fuss...but they do make mistakes. BB

Nice....but I'm still skint! Keep up the good work Robbie BB

Nice one Lucy - I went through a rubber phase a few years ago, but could'nt get on with the scale length (and those friction pegs!) Still, its the ultimate easy travel bass...and sounds good....if you don't look... BB