BassBod

Not really my area, but I often get asked to learn stuff fast (or more often just make it up on the spot) Get recordings, (live is best) even if they're different to the current versions - ask for a list of what they really want you to know (a lot of bands only ever play half of what they could on gigs..). Make some notes on your "master list" about keys (tunings?) arrangements etc Don't worry about learning everything in detail, just rough out the whole lot and learn where the tricky bits are - you can get back to them, or fake your way thru for now. Your focus should be on learning the part, but mostly about how to fit into the band, that's what they want. If they're talking to you then your half way there....good luck, and hope you enjoy it. BB

See my Clifton "Cherry" bass in the porn section - around 7lbs, might be less. You don't even know its there (but its also short scale). Mo Clifton started making instruments partly because his trusty P bass was too heavy and badly balanced for comfort. BB

Sold a pickup to Mr F - no problems, good communication, turned up as arranged etc Nice chap, but it seems he does own a Wishbass...... BB

I thnk that's a good sign - keep it that way. If you ever find yourself wondering if a better cable might help....have a beer instead. Or buy some really good earplugs that will help far more in the long run. BB

In my (limited) experience of Barts, expect a fairly low output (assuming passive) and a pretty "dark" tone? I like the Bart sound, but I found a PJ set I tried were too lacking in definition and output for me. I also had a MM Bart, and that was totally different.....a real keeper. BB

Not so sure about loyalty...I've recently acquired a Bravewood P bass that's got me going all retro. There are plenty of situations where a headless five string gets you off to a bad start even before you plug it in - but if I want to use a five, this one balances (even with a 36" scale) has a fantastic low B and fits into a gitar bag. I just like Mo's designs because they work so well - each bass does the job it was made for. I guess my ultimate now would be a Cherry/Jazz bass hybrid...so if anyone buys the gear I've got up for sale (and I could persuade Mo to make something so conventonal)?? BB

Now if someone could get that anti-gravity stuff built into my Alembic....I could stand up straight after gigs (well, not in Germany maybe..) BB

Forgot to explain, the headless was routed ready for a circuit/battery cavity (on the basis I'd add one later, when I could afford it) but I never felt the need. It was also built as a lined fretless, but I had it fretted last year for a change. How fickle...eh? Mo's site is www.cliftonbasses.co.uk for anyone who wants to see more of his work, although he seems to be spending more time in France these days, instead of breathing sawdust in our lovely English winters. Lucky b@gger BB

I use good quality "standard" cables (from OBBM or Orchid Electronics) with neutrik connectors and Van Damm cable - well made and tough so they are good value for money. I've got one posh cable from MIT that I bought cheap when the UK distributors were selling them off ( I guess 'cause bass players won't normally spend £80 on a wire..) Its got mysterious plastic boxes near each plug and its labelled "guitar/amp" at either end because its supposed to sound better if used in the right direction. Or they think we're stupid and will forget where to put the other end. It does sound slightly "fuller" and "brighter" at home, with nothing else but amp hiss to listen to...but in any real world environment I couldn't tell the difference.....and its going to get stepped on and covered in beer just like every other cable. Anyone want it? BB

Coughs...Bravewood.....best Pbass I've ever owned. BB

My experinces of this were to have two different amps - a GK combo for upright and a SWR Workingmans Twelve (with sansamp) for bass guitar, expensive but it worked very well. A better solution is a real two channel amp (Focus?) I now use an old Alembic F2B, but I prefer not to mix - its either Upright or BG and I try really hard not to bring both. I used to make a point of providing two DI outputs as they sound very different, but to be honest 90% of sound engineers couldn't be bothered! To make it work with one amp you can combine a simple A/B footswitch followed by a switchable preamp like the Sansamp. That way you can change between a "flat" sound for Upright, and a more "coloured" tone for BG and change instruments in two clicks. Takes a while to balance the levels etc but it does work...honest. BB

Yes, all mine - two were built for me (almost ten years apart..) but the travel guitar was secondhand from a shop. [attachment=5606:DSCN1100.JPG] Its tuned as a regular five string, but an octave higher. Uses regular gitar strings, except the low B which is a bit bigger, Mo has these made (probably by Piccato in Wales?) BB

Mo Clifton is better known for his electric uprights, but he makes bass guitars too... [attachment=5604:DSCN1098.JPG] [attachment=5605:DSCN1101.JPG] A travel bass (gitar scale, never measured it) fretless, a Cherry bass (30" scale) and the Downright (36" scale headless). All are passive, with various Kent or Aaron Armstrong pickups. Ever get bored of Fenders??? BB

I used a Status Jazz neck for a bitser - very impressive sound, beautifully made, but I couldn't get on with the weight (neck heavy) and the unforgiving fret "clang" I got if I wasn't playing very cleanly. I enjoyed the experience but decided it wasn't for me (EMG pups didn't help I.m sure). BB

So glad to see someone else hates the Prom. That's made my day. Back to the thread? BB

I've never done that exact comparison, but I have changed a dead Fender 73 for a DM whatever its called (the one they've made for ever..). Sounded very similar but with a bit more output and more "edge". I liked it. BB