jrixn1

Ah I see, thanks @Jack and @EBS_freak.

There are no sliders on the XR12 - but I might be confused/misunderstood.

I believe you can save "snapshots" -- so one per instrument? -- and then cycle through those snapshots with a midi pedal like the Tech21 Midi Mouse. This is just from reading the manuals so perhaps someone could confirm.

http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/MARUSZCZYK_Elwood_4p_30_3TSB.html

Sorry if it was already covered, but how does the Mouse sound going directly into the QSC? I.e. do you need an external pre-amp in the first place? If not, that would simplify things, of course. My pedalboard looks a bit like this: I switch between upright and P bass, but normally between sets so just physically swap the cable between basses. If the gig has a lot of switching, I'll add an AB box at the front. The Zoom MS-60B has a Fishman emulation module, which is the only thing I use. If you want to look it up in the Zoom manual, it's called 'Ac Bs Pre'. I have stored two of my own presets (you press the footswitch to change between your presets): for upright: some eq + HPF for P bass: just the HPF. The MXR is my DI box. The XLR output goes to FOH; the jack output goes to my RCF. The only knob I ever change is the output level, which (since I have the pedal in 'pre' mode) only affects the volume of the RCF, not FOH. I never use the EQ; if they made this pedal without the EQ (and footswitch), I'd buy that one instead. The whole thing is an expensive way to avoid using the volume knob on the RCF.

Unfortunately, you can't turn the Fishman Plat Pro off -- one of the reasons I sold mine. You'd have to put it in a loop and turn that loop on/off; or run it into an AB switch.

Since you're happy with the HD500X, I agree with your reasoning regarding the colouration and redundancy of getting a bass amp just to bypass it. I think better than the Alto TS 212, if you can go up to £299, would be this B-stock RCF 312 on eBay. The RCF website says 300W RMS into the 12" woofer and 100W into the compression driver. I don't know how loud your band is on stage, but it should be enough. If it really wasn't, the seller has a returns policy. BTW definitely use it in front of you in the wedge position. You'll hear it a lot better that way than something which is behind you.

What's your current rig? What are the sound problems you mention?

Look nice. I found the website: http://restauracja-gitar.pl/buzz-guitars/

@Frank Blank Providence Dual Bass Station?

The XR12 looks really interesting. Same footprint as a Pedaltrain Nano!

https://www.guitarguitar.co.uk/product/13050109530632--zoom-ms-60b-bass-multi-stomp https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Zoom-Multi-Stomp-MS-60B-/art-BAS0006941-000 https://www.thomann.de/gb/zoom_multi_stomp_ms_60b.htm

I use an MS-60B which has digital presets. As previously said though, if you're very happy with the Fishman then you'd probably want to keep it. Another option, if you want to physically connect two basses, is: bass 1 → pre-amp 1 → LS-2 input #1 bass 2 → pre-amp 2 → LS-2 input #2 LS-2 output → QSC You can use any AB switch here instead of LS-2.

Or from another angle: What is your preference for an on-stage monitor: to hear the same tone as the audience will hear (an "accurate"/flat cab), or to hear a different tone (a coloured cab)?

What is the technical difference between a good passive PA speaker (i.e. one which can reproduce all reasonable frequencies without colouration) and a flat-voiced bass cab (i.e. one which can reproduce all reasonable frequencies without colouration)?

I'm not sure how they're wired, but would a pot with a switch work? Click the J pot to zero and it switches out that part of the circuit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOBLE-ALPS-250K-Ohm-B-Linear-Pot-with-On-Off-Switch-Potentiometer-NOS-Vol-Audio-/152148049914

In which case, yes It's a good goal to be comfortable playing up to at least the 12th fret (on any string, however many strings the bass has).

When you're using in-ears and you DI from the Sansamp to the mixer, how does anyone hear the chorus and phaser? What's the output of the phaser connected to? I get enough bottom end from my 1x12" powered speaker (which is indeed an on-trend RCF ). I used to play a Barefaced Big Baby 2 and have not found the RCF lacking.

Perhaps you don't necessarily need to buy a Helix. What's your setup (preamp) when you are on in-ears? Could you use the same system into a powered speaker? The price of a suitable powered speaker is comparable to that of a Super Compact.

As previous poster said, bass is a transposing instrument. The note which is written as middle C will actually sound one octave below middle C. To play an actual middle C is 17th fret on the G string. When you originally said "higher register" did you mean around the 5th fret or around the 17th?

Sorry, I thought this was "Effects". But it's "Repairs & Technical" so you probably meant the first option!

Is this a question specifically about modding your existing pedal, or generally looking for other options/suggestions? If the former, I can't help; if the latter, perhaps a Boss LS-2 (active) or a Bright Onion AB (passive).

I wonder if you have a particular bassist, band, recording, style of music, etc in mind, to help further narrow down the sound you are after?

"Tube warmth" is quite a broad area. The VT Bass is different from the BDDI as it has a "character" knob, which could help narrow down which flavour of tube warmth will work best. I found it helped me to realize I was after more B15 than SVT. Similar idea with Darkglass Vintage Microtubes and its "era" knob.