bertbass

It's one of those things that you get used too with practice and I found that I had to change the way that I played certain songs. Great sound though, so it's worth it.

In the first photo it looks like there may be a break in the wire that comes out from under the yellow tape and solders onto the pad. If that is a break, then it is repairable but is a seriously fiddly job. If it's not broken then the voice coil has gone open circuit and the you might as well throw the mic away or try to get a new cartridge and use the old body of the mic but you'll still have to solder the new cartridge in. Easiest just to get a new mic. The wires should have been soldered otherwise the signal from the cartridge would not have been able to pass through to the XLR plug at the end of the mic unless you were very lucky and they made contact by just touching.

Woolworths and every thing cost 6d and long before pick 'n' mix. I think that the shop are being a bit unfair especially after having a chat with Tim about your problems. I wish you all the best.

I have repaired mics before and it's a bit fiddly but you get there in the end. In the first photo it looks like the wire from the voice coil, the thin wire under the yellow tape, is broken but that may just be the photo. The way to check it is to put a meter across the two solder pads either side of the brass standoff. If you get continuity then all is well. If the wire is broken, then using a magnifying glass and a sharp knife / blade, scrape the wire until the varnish is removed and solder it back together. You may need to bridge the gap with a very thin piece of wire. A wire from each solder pad passes through the holes shown in the second photo and are soldered to the yellow and white wires in the last photo. To do this you have to undo the nut between the yellow and white wires shown in the last photo. With this undone, it's reasonably simple the thread the two wires from the solder pads through the holes by the yellow and white holes and solder them in place. I'm sure that with the bits of the mic infront of you you'll get the idea. Good luck.

Sorry, I forgot the .

Surely it's Sunshine Of Your Love.

Are you sure that it's working OK? Didn't I read somewhere that wires are prone to come adrift due to bad soldering making the bass not fit for purpose?

Is this what you're after? http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Solder-Tag-Rotary-Switches-30304

Prescription, octagonal and rose tinted, very 60s. I love them as do the audience.

+1 to the graphic EQ. Use one myself for this very purpose. A Behringer BEQ700 to be precise.

Sorry old chaps but tinning the ends before screwing down is a recipe for disaster. The screws will just cut through the wire. Best left naked.

+1 to that. You get no loss with balanced signal cables, so, amps either side of the stage and as short as you can get away with speaker cables.

Actually no. Try this, http://www.diamondcut.com/AppNotes/wirechart.pdf

We use a pair of EV Force 1x12 + horn cabs for foldback. Work well and reasonably light, but quite directional and I think one of the horns might be on the way out. I don't think you'll far wrong with that setup.

Here you go, http://www.peavey.com/products/index.cfm/series/813/Pro%E2%84%A2%20Series. Not cheap though.

+1 to that. I've decided that my B1500 has to stay as it's so good.

Used a T & B 100, metal case, in 1969 along with a pair of Goliath 1 x 18" cabs. Fantastic setup and I don't remember a lack of bass. A road I'd like to try again sometime just to see if my memory serves me well.

The Easy Beats The Who Aerosmith

I'm sure that you've seem this, but just in case you haven't,

+1 to what he said.

Over 50 feet and you'll start to notice a loss of volume.

You think you've got problems, try being left handed.

2 EL84s would be about 14 watts or an AC15.

Ever thought of a thumb pick?

That would make a stack just over 6 ft with feet attached. Certainly be able to hear what you're playing with that.