tauzero

You can get locking straps - Planet Waves makes a range, eg https://www.gak.co.uk/en/planet-waves-planet-lock-guitar-strap/100769.

Have you connected it directly to the laptop rather than via a hub?

A piece of 12mm plywood, maybe with some stick-on feet on it?

Adjusting the truss rod: generally (and this is not universal), you turn the adjuster clockwise to tighten the truss rod and decrease the bow in the neck, and anticlockwise to loosen it and increase the bow in the neck. When loosening it, you don't need to loosen the strings. When tightening it, you can loosen the strings or push back on the headstock to decrease the bow while tightening it. The commonest truss rod adjuster is probably a 4mm allen key. A capo is also very useful - put the capo on the first fret, then hold the strings down at the top fret and see what clearance you have to frets halfway between the two. Some people like a lot of relief, others like very little - find out what suits you, sort out a way of measuring it, then you can reproduce it on other instruments or after changing string gauges or when the weather changes and the neck shifts a bit.

I don't know what you're moaning about, he/she had the courtesy to reply and to say thanks. That's a pretty good result, and they're not intending to waste your time either.

Set of Rotosound flats.

I had one of the percussive fretless ones many, many years ago. I think it was one of the instruments I part-exchanged to get my Warwick Thumb in 1988.

Putting a reverb with a quite rapid decay on it helps, especially if you start out with an Ashbory.

Isn't that just a switched jack plug?

Lekato WS-90. Fits into an SRF705.

That's a tier 2.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1368176770519389 Such honesty is rare and deserves rewarding. Not by me, though.

Just beware that this doesn't presage a slippery slope - "I had to buy a wireless as if I walked 10 metres from my amp with my 3 metre lead, I couldn't be heard".

Yes, everything of mine is active - used with an Ibanez EHB1265MS and various others (Warwick, Sei, for example). One point - if you have one of the recessed socket Ibanezezezes like the SRF705, the WS-50 doesn't quite get in there but the WS-90 does.

Lekato WS-50 - use it all the time, for rehearsals, open mic nights, and gigs. Have also bought a Lekato WS-90 recently which is a bit bigger, has a longer battery life (the WS-50 isn't bad at 4+ hours) and can be switched to any of four channels.

I have a 1-Spot powering an HX Stomp from the rightmost power outlet, other outlets being used for a MIDI switch, HPF/LPF, and Harley-Benton wireless. Just used a 2.1 to 2.5 non-reversing lead (chopped the end off a 2.1-2.1 and put on a 2.5).

Both pickups fit exactly into the recesses designed for them and the nut looks fine, so it's just inspired by He Who Must Not Be Named, not one of his production models.

It gets posted in the Weird and Wonderful section and people point and laugh. Alternatively, it gets put into production as per prototype with a horrible chunky neck, which is what happened in this case.

Well, that's further bafflement. There's heatshrink over the end of the outer insulation on the pickup leads, which I thought might contain the ends of each pickup winding, like on the BH2 pickups. No such luck. Slit the heatshrink and it just covers where the cable screen is run into a separate sleeve. No access to the internal coils. So I need at least one replacement MK1.

What @BassBunny said. The white is from the pickup and would be the hot wire so should go to the centre of the middle pot. I think the red wire goes to the centre terminal of the end (tone) pot, as long as that's not where the earth is connected to. The way the jack socket is wired up seems a little odd to me, but I'm not familiar with the conventions of VVT wiring - it will work as the two volumes and the tone are all in parallel but it seems odd to run a wire from the furthest possible point (neck volume) to the jack socket.

That's hilarious. Ha ha ha.

Who is this author Flemming?

Not paint, but I do sometimes see a lovely piece of wood that I think would make a nice bass.

There's a couple of specialist bass places: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/ https://bassbros.co.uk/

Another vote for the Tecamp Puma 900.